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theloungelife

Burnt Exhaust Paint and Engine Code on LS3 Engine

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theloungelife

Hey all.  I was clearing out my boat (2013 Axis A22 with Indmar LS3 Corvette Engine) for the season and noticed these burn spots on the engine exhaust.  Pictures are below.  I don't remember them being there previously.  Does anyone know what would cause this?  Last time I used the boat (last weekend) it seemed to run fine overall but at the end of the day I got a check engine light with code ECM: SPN 65563 FMI 5. From reading into the code, I am seeing it is related to the Oxygen Sensor B1 Lean,.

I'm planning on bringing the boat to the dealer this Thursday, but figured I would check in here if anyone has advice.  

q8rZUuf.jpg

FKTKQEx.jpg

 

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oldjeep

Id check impeller.  Those look like they got really hot. 

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theloungelife

Yeah, reading around today about ext cats, I’m thinking it’s one of 2 things.  Either a) impeller is shredded and this allowed the cats to heat up to that point, which maybe also damaged the o2 sensor.  Or b) O2 sensor failed, allowing fuel rich exhaust which heated up the cats.  Both scenarios are interesting because the engine temp was fine, but this could be due to half closed cooling.

I’l’ check out the impeller either tonight or tomorrow. 

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DogDays

How many hours are on the engine?  I am not a mechanic, but it looks like the air filter needs to be serviced as well.  Of course the air filter would not have caused the issue with the exhaust, just an observation.  Sorry to see the damage.  I bet that engine is fun!

Edited by DogDays

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ahopkinsVTX

Hopefully your cats are backed up or now burnt up. 

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theloungelife

Dealer inspection shows that the cats are burnt up.  These cats are expensive!  All in all my dealer has quoted me $4800 for parts (2 cats, 4 o2 sensors and spark plugs) and labor after their winter discount.  This actually seems reasonable after seeing that bakes has the cats for almost $2k each.  The interesting part is now I am having them look into service bulletin SB2012-3IN.  My engine matches the spec and serial number associated.  My assumption is that I might be out the repair bill but that they can fix the issue such that this won't happen again.  Or maybe I'll luck out beyond that.  We'll see.

Otherwise, I checked the impeller before bringing it in and it looked fine.  Dealer is unsure of the cause at this time.  

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ahopkinsVTX

That sucks! And was my fear, but I agree that price seems very reasonable all things considered. 

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oldjeep
1 hour ago, theloungelife said:

Dealer inspection shows that the cats are burnt up.  These cats are expensive!  All in all my dealer has quoted me $4800 for parts (2 cats, 4 o2 sensors and spark plugs) and labor after their winter discount.  This actually seems reasonable after seeing that bakes has the cats for almost $2k each.  The interesting part is now I am having them look into service bulletin SB2012-3IN.  My engine matches the spec and serial number associated.  My assumption is that I might be out the repair bill but that they can fix the issue such that this won't happen again.  Or maybe I'll luck out beyond that.  We'll see.

Otherwise, I checked the impeller before bringing it in and it looked fine.  Dealer is unsure of the cause at this time.  

If the impeller is good then I'd be checking the circulation pump. 

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theloungelife

Looks like the service bulletin had already been completed.  Time to shell out the funds.  I'm having them check the circulation pump.

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hawaiianstyln

does this boat have the replumb kit to keep the risers cooler?  Do you surf a lot and list that boat pretty good?  I don't really know that engine as well as my standard 340 monsoon I've always had. 

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theloungelife

Hey, it did have the replumb for the service bulletin.  Mostly just wakeboard, with surfing a couple times a summer.  We do load it down though (full PNP + 550 in the nose and a 400 in the middle on the floor)

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theloungelife

Following up on this thread from last fall.  Had the repair done this winter (new cats, o2 sensors etc).  Been out on the boat twice now this spring.  Both times an O2 sensor engine code popped on (SPN 65568 FMI 8).  Both times brought it back to the dealer that did the repair.  They are telling me the engine runs fuel rich and it's clogging one of the new O2 sensors.  They then clean it and the code goes away.  Their fix they tell me is that I need to run the engine high RPM for a few minutes at the end of each day.  Does this advice seem appropriate?  The last thing I want is to burn through my cats again.  Is this something others have experienced with the LS3?  Any tips how to avoid this problem?

Note: My crew wakeboards 99% of the time (very little surfing).  We have the boat fully ballasted and are typically running at around 3800 RPM @23-24MPH.

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theloungelife

Also note, it has the acme 2315 on it

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hawaiianstyln

Seems very appropriate.  all you run is wakeboard speed and then head back in for the day?  You need to run that thing at WOT (wide open throttle) or close to it for a few minutes OR different speeds so you can possibly burn off some carbon build up too.  What I would like to see is if the code pops at high RPMs. 

Side note, you don't happen to ride with my good buddy Ryan Shimabukuru out there do you?  I think he heads up a lot of the contests and is also admin/owner of WHOF (wakeboard hall of fame)

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hawaiianstyln

Also, how does your temp look while you are riding?  Is it abnormally fluctuating over the open/close temp (usually 160)?  Meaning does it get to 175-ish before it goes back down below 160?  If you have the replumb kit these CATS should run super cooled.  I know mine run VERY cool now.  To even worry about burning up some CATS with that replumb kit shouldn't even be a thought.  Did you check your transmission cooler to see if you have any burnt impeller parts on the intake side of the cooler?

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theloungelife

Hey, yeah I actually ride with Ryan all the time.  Heading out on his Nautique this Sunday!  Great guy.

I'll make sure to run at WOT next time I'm out on it.  Might be tomorrow night.  Do you think it's important to do in the beginning and the end or mostly just the end of the session?  Also does the WOT need to be when the boat is ballasted?  I haven't tested WOT/ballasted at full throttle, but I already have the beefiest prop for my boat.  

Temp is stable at 160, but this engine is half closed cooling.  I think if the CATS are super hot I won't know by the engine temp gauge.  I will say that when I was out on sunday I splashed a tiny bit of water on them and right around where the rear O2 sensors are, the water drips basically boiled.  Today I spoke with the tech that cleaned the O2 sensors and asked him specifically if my impeller and the raw water system was working correctly and he said it was fine.  If I wanted to check out the transmission cooler myself, are there any guides?  I think I know which part it is, but not sure how to open it up.  

Thanks!

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theloungelife

Oh yeah, as far as the replumb kit, I asked the dealer if it had been done and they said yes.  That said, what do I look for with that?  I'm the 2nd owner of the boat.  Bought it summer 2017.

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Woodski

@theloungelife- I would not be convinced by that explanation from a dealer, I would follow up with a direct call to the engine marinizer for confirmation.  I seriously doubt a calibration would be released that required a WOT run to clear out the excess fuel.  I would make sure the dealer did an injector test to confirm no leaky or stuck injectors.

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hunter77ah
34 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@theloungelife- I would not be convinced by that explanation from a dealer, I would follow up with a direct call to the engine marinizer for confirmation.  I seriously doubt a calibration would be released that required a WOT run to clear out the excess fuel.  I would make sure the dealer did an injector test to confirm no leaky or stuck injectors.

I think WOT is probably too much, but if you check the manual, IIRC it does recommend a higher RPM before you head in at the end of the day.  I think that this is mainly for smaller lakes, but I could be wrong.

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jmack
On ‎5‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 7:55 AM, Woodski said:

@theloungelife- I would not be convinced by that explanation from a dealer, I would follow up with a direct call to the engine marinizer for confirmation.  I seriously doubt a calibration would be released that required a WOT run to clear out the excess fuel.  I would make sure the dealer did an injector test to confirm no leaky or stuck injectors.

I'm with Woodski. There's an underlying problem causing it to run rich. If someone told you to run your car at WOT after an afternoon of stop and go traffic, that would be completely unacceptable, and the same is true for your boat!

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theloungelife

I agree with you guys, that there has to be something else going on.  If the WOT doesn't fix it, I'll be sure to ask them about the fuel injectors.

Otherwise slight usage update, I took the boat out the other day.  Light came back on within first 15 mins of running it.  Ran the boat the rest of the day while silencing the alarm.  Did keep an eye on the cats, as well as engine temp.  Nothing alarming.  Got to the end of the day and ran WOT, as they said.  Will see if the light turns off next time I am out.  

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hawaiianstyln

in this article someone was talking about an issue with the cross over cooling hoses and water pump.  To me, those hoses look small and I google imaged that motor and I don't see the crossover hoses on some, but others have them.  Those hoses look half the size of mine, but I have a different engine and setup so....  Wookski does have a very good point of running rich

 

 

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theloungelife

@hawaiianstyln that is an interested thread.  When I ran a fake-a-lake on mine this spring, I was concerned by very little water coming out the exhaust, compared to what I would have thought.  Going to dig further into that.

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theloungelife

Update here: Picked up the boat on Tuesday.  They replaced the o2 sensor and updated something in the engine's computer to adjust the fuel rich issue.  Been out one day so far with no engine light!  Fingers crossed it stays that way.

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