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cgsmakaveli

Holley Carb R75008 - Rebuild Kit

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cgsmakaveli

So i pulled my Holley Carb off my 1998 Malibu Sportster and the only identifying marks on the Carb read R75008. When i spoke with Holley yesterday, I think their technician mentioned that in the early days of production some of these carbs were made in conjunction with volvo and ford. However, they did not have any information for this carb. I was instructed to order product number 37-1541 which appears to be a universal rebuild kit for all 4160 marine carbs and double the cost.

Could anyone provide more insight into this carb or has anyone come across similar situations?

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drh

It should be a 4150 - that's what's on my 99 Sportster. Check here for the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILhfE3yC5Vo

Indmar part number for the rebuild kit is 61-1015. Holly OEM part number 703-45. https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HOL703-45

I've taken mine apart to clean and replaced some individual components but I didn't need a full rebuild kit. You can buy the gaskets, diaphragms, needle and seat valves, etc. individually if you want to save some money. What kind of problem is it giving you? A good cleaning and proper adjustment will probably make the biggest difference depending on what issue you're experiencing.

Edited by drh

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85 Barefoot
3 minutes ago, drh said:

It should be a 4150 - that's what's on my 99 Sportster. Check here for the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILhfE3yC5Vo

I've taken mine apart to clean and replaced some individual components but I didn't need a full rebuild kit. You can buy the gaskets, diaphragms, needle and seat valves, etc. individually if you want to save some money. What kind of problem is it giving you? A good cleaning and proper adjustment will probably make the biggest difference depending on what issue you're experiencing.

I hate to change the subject, but I am not a carb afficionado....I have a 351 in a 97 ski nautique with 1000 hours.  Not sure when last rebuild was done but it has started to fall on its face upon acceleration to the point of backfiring if you give it too much gas.  If you accelerate moderately, you can avoid that.  Been told acceleration pump.  Also been told a carb can only be rebuilt so many times and you should just replace. 

DRH, what do you think?  every now and then time to replace the whole deal?   Thanks.

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Woodski

@85 Barefoot:  Sounds like the accelerator pump needs replacing.  You can test by simply (engine off) move throttle lever, you will want a partner to do that while looking down the carb to see if you get a good discharge of fuel.  I do suggest a complete carb clean and rebuild once you have it on the bench and given the 1k hour mark.

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85 Barefoot
21 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@85 Barefoot:  Sounds like the accelerator pump needs replacing.  You can test by simply (engine off) move throttle lever, you will want a partner to do that while looking down the carb to see if you get a good discharge of fuel.  I do suggest a complete carb clean and rebuild once you have it on the bench and given the 1k hour mark.

Thanks...but no need to buy a new carb?

Will fuel spray with key off?  Heard different opinions on that?  One that since fuel pump is off, won't expect any spray, but with key on it will?  Should a well tuned carb start cold with no priming?  

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cgsmakaveli
1 hour ago, drh said:

It should be a 4150 - that's what's on my 99 Sportster. Check here for the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILhfE3yC5Vo

Indmar part number for the rebuild kit is 61-1015. Holly OEM part number 703-45. https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HOL703-45

I've taken mine apart to clean and replaced some individual components but I didn't need a full rebuild kit. You can buy the gaskets, diaphragms, needle and seat valves, etc. individually if you want to save some money. What kind of problem is it giving you? A good cleaning and proper adjustment will probably make the biggest difference depending on what issue you're experiencing.

It is a 4160. No major problems, just looking for winter projects and i assume it has not been done before (bought the boat in 2015). 

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Woodski

@85 Barefoot:  No, you should be able to do a rebuild assuming carb is in good condition, no major issues like corrosion, etc.  1k hours is not that much on a carb but there are areas that will wear such as shaft bushings but they may also be fine.  Fuel will  spray as long as there is enough in the fuel bowls, it takes several squirts to empty the bowls, I am making this assumption that you are actuating the linkage so if electric by chance then it would probably need to be keyed up.  You can always disconnect the throttle cable and simply open the throttle plates that way, you won't need a helper that way.  Mine needs a prime, and most do, it makes a difference on how the carb is calibrated so hard to give a blanket answer.

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justgary
33 minutes ago, 85 Barefoot said:

Thanks...but no need to buy a new carb?

Will fuel spray with key off?  Heard different opinions on that?  One that since fuel pump is off, won't expect any spray, but with key on it will?  Should a well tuned carb start cold with no priming?  

If it were mine, I'd rebuild it an see how it performs before I considered buying a new one.  Check for excess play in the moving parts after you get it all clean.  If it has bushings on the shafts, they can be replaced if needed.

I had a Datsun 1200 years ago that wore out the unbushed holes in the carb body that the throttle butterfly shaft went through.  It was sucking air through the ends of the shaft.  I just drilled out the holes and made bushing inserts for it.  

To clean it, don't just spray it with a can of cleaner, go to the auto parts store and buy the gallon can of carb cleaner with the basket in it so you can give it a good soaking.  It will get much cleaner and perform better after you get it really clean.

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drh
23 minutes ago, cgsmakaveli said:

It is a 4160. No major problems, just looking for winter projects and i assume it has not been done before (bought the boat in 2015). 

Ok good to know. I guess they used the 4160 in 98.

If it helps any here's what I did: 

Pull the float bowls, metering blocks and jets and clean the blocks and jet passages with carb cleaner and compressed air. Blow out the air bleeds in the same way (four small vertical holes at the top of the primary barrels). Replace the secondary diaphragm. After reassembly check and adjust your float levels and adjust idle mix screws with a vacuum gauge (be sure your air cleaner is on). Set idle speed. This made a noticeable difference for me - smoother idle and more power. I guess I should add that my experience is with the 4150 so some of this may be different with your 4160.

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Murphys

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-4160-4-Barrel-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit_p_2717.html

I have had very good luck purchasing Rochester Quadrajet rebuild kits from Mike's Carburetor Parts. Above is a link to their web site page for a Holley 4160 rebuild kit. The web site contains helpful how-to videos also.

I have also used Flying Fish (Guaranteed Carburetors) with good results.

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