I guess it's my time :( Head Gasket? Water coming out #8 & #6

[hawaiianstyln]

17 hours ago, BoatFlyRide said:

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a leak-down tester before you take ANYTHING else apart. They are quite easy to use and could help you identify your problem oh so quickly.

This is what i will be doing in the next few days actually as a next step. $40 at harbor freight.  

Edited October 29, 2018 by hawaiianstyln

[MadMan]

12 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

This is what i will be doing in the next few days actually as a next step. $40 at harbor freight.  

You don't actually need a leak down tester, you already know you have a problem.  Just something like this to pressurize the cylinder and see where the air is escaping from.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU

 

[hawaiianstyln]

2 minutes ago, MadMan said:

You don't actually need a leak down tester, you already know you have a problem.  Just something like this to pressurize the cylinder and see where the air is escaping from.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU

 

I guess I thought the gauge (leak down) would help me identify my percentage of leak if there was one.  30% and over is no bueno.

[BoatFlyRide]

On 10/29/2018 at 5:21 AM, hawaiianstyln said:

This is what i will be doing in the next few days actually as a next step. $40 at harbor freight.  

Sounds good, since you will be unable to run the engine put a drop or two of oil in each cylinder to help with ring-sealing. Cold compression/leak down tests don't mean much and can give you a false low reading. I usually do all my compression/leak-down tests with the engine at least slightly warmed. If you suspect a crack in your exhaust manifolds or risers any competent machine shop should be able to pressure test them for you.

 

16 hours ago, MadMan said:

You don't actually need a leak down tester, you already know you have a problem.  Just something like this to pressurize the cylinder and see where the air is escaping from.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU

 

This won't really work all that well. I like using a leak-down gauge because they can help to identify true TDC on the cylinder by looking for peak pressure/minimum leak. I'm not really sure how you could verify both valves were closed with that Lisle tool unless you pulled the rocker cover off.

[MadMan]

3 hours ago, BoatFlyRide said:

This won't really work all that well. I like using a leak-down gauge because they can help to identify true TDC on the cylinder by looking for peak pressure/minimum leak. I'm not really sure how you could verify both valves were closed with that Lisle tool unless you pulled the rocker cover off.

Actually they work great. 

Identifying true TDC is pretty far down the list of thing to do now- he's got water intrusion,  it doesn't really matter what the percentage is....just needs to identify if it's coming internally from the engine or the exhaust.

[hawaiianstyln]

3 hours ago, MadMan said:

Actually they work great. 

Identifying true TDC is pretty far down the list of thing to do now- he's got water intrusion,  it doesn't really matter what the percentage is....just needs to identify if it's coming internally from the engine or the exhaust.

good point

[BoatFlyRide]

6 hours ago, MadMan said:

Actually they work great. 

Identifying true TDC is pretty far down the list of thing to do now- he's got water intrusion,  it doesn't really matter what the percentage is....just needs to identify if it's coming internally from the engine or the exhaust.

How could he identify if its coming from the engine or exhaust without ensuring both valves are closed? 

[MadMan]

2 hours ago, BoatFlyRide said:

How could he identify if its coming from the engine or exhaust without ensuring both valves are closed? 

It's pretty easy to tell if one of the valves is open, air would be coming out the exhaust or intake.

But, if it were me doing the test, I'd  close the valves by pulling both rockers of the cylinder I was testing.  Then, when the I put the air to it, it would push the piston to BDC.  That way, I'd be checking for a cracked cylinder wall too.

[Woodski]

You can always pop off the distributor cap and simply go by rotor index.  @MadMan makes the excellent point on how you want to do your leak down test based on what you need to find out, where water is coming from to get in to the cylinders, to verify that the cylinder walls are ok will need the piston to be at BDC, not TDC.  Anything off TDC and you put 100 psi to it and the piston will go down to BDC as noted.  I use a cheap stethoscope as my listening device, at least for the lower engine area.

[hawaiianstyln]

so, a few updates on this.  First off, Torque wrenches are CHEAP at Oreily's.  I think I paid $24 for 1/2 wrench and less that $20 for the 3/8's (click style)

After two new ETX/CAT manifolds and intake manifold job (why not since I was unsure if it was a cracked riser or intake gasket), my compression looks good.  I just need to drain milky oil and filter tonight, start her up and hope to be good to go

Note:  the 190 compression went down after I realized that I had some residual fogging oil sitting in there on the first test.  It was close to 180 after I cleared the fogging oil on the first pass.

[hawaiianstyln]

Question is, tonight when I fill up with new oil can't I just get away with using 3-4 quarts since this new oil will be dumped again as it's being used for flushing purposes only?  Do I really need to buy 5.5 quarts is what I'm getting at.  It's not like I'm running at high RPM, it will just be running on the trailer at lowest RPMs until it gets to Tstat cooling temps

[justgary]

I wouldn't go below the "Add" line.  Well on my motor, at least. 

You could also flush with diesel or kerosene first, turn the engine over with the lanyard out, then change to oil. 

Or if you must pinch that penny (as would I), put 4 quarts in and tip the trailer until the dip stick reads full.  That way the sump is full. 

[hawaiianstyln]

I just went ahead and filled full hahahhaa oh well.  Rather not be cheap i thought on such an expensive boat

[MadMan]

On ‎12‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 6:34 PM, hawaiianstyln said:

I just went ahead and filled full hahahhaa oh well.  Rather not be cheap i thought on such an expensive boat

So, what happened? did you start it? milky oil gone?

[hawaiianstyln]

33 minutes ago, MadMan said:

So, what happened? did you start it? milky oil gone?

Yep flushed with new oil, put everything back together and dropped the distributor back in (although i dropped it 180 deg off),  but once i had everything good to go and new oil/filter and ran it for 30 min one day and then 30 min the other day and all good.  

Culprit was a cracked exhaust riser.  This boat never had the replumb kit either so i installed that from bakes as well and wow risers are so much cooler 

[hawaiianstyln]

I did just put cheap 10-40 in it at $2.00 a quart from autozone sale and then i will put the nice 15w-40 in the spring