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hawaiianstyln

I guess it's my time :( Head Gasket? Water coming out #8 & #6

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hawaiianstyln

A sad day to post this.  Drained the oil last night and it was Tan Milky.  My jaw dropped, I knew the probable outcome.  Drained all oil, began compression check.  As I was compression checking Strbrd side water was shooting out of #8 and #6.  Obviously when I pulled those two plugs before I began I saw they were wet and jaw dropped again. :(

Would this be a head gasket?  I had heard that the head gaskets on my year motors had potential to be problematic?  I have never torn down an engine but I am very handy and thorough on things.  This boat was running GREAT and yesterday starting it on fake-a-lake was purring!!  Wouldn't I have low compression on those cylinders if it was a head gasket?  Confusing to me why it's high on #6

I also attached evidence of the water shooting out of #8 and #6.  Any advice please.  I would hope I can do this myself, but maybe you guys have experience and tell me it's not worth it if I haven't done a H G job before.

Since the water concerns me in the cylinder, I'm going to dump the water and begin the winterization process but leave it dry (no antifreeze) since I'm looking at engine work this winter.  I will fog the cylinders now and crank the engine because I'm now worried about the water rusting.

 

56234518479__239A9580-2808-465F-B12B-44C9A4DE4CCA.JPG

IMG_1873.jpg

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oldjeep

Did you have any overheating or other  issues before you ran your motor on that little bucket of water? 

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Woodski

@hawaiianstyln:  Certainly the head gasket is a possibility.  Another option would be a cracked exhaust manifold or bad riser gasket allowing water to get in to the exhaust or dry side of the manifold, then seep down the exhaust port to the combustion chamber.  What did the #6, 8 first pump on the compression check do compared to the others, that can be a better indicator of overall compression as you can fool yourself with extra pumps on the test masking a true comparison cylinder to cylinder.  A leak down test will be a much better indicator of where the problem lies or specifically the health of the head gasket.  If you had a glut of water go up the tail pipes, that can actually do the same water fill to the cylinders and since #6, 8 are lower than #2, 4, those would be the first to get the incoming water.

 

Edited by Woodski

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Sixball

I was just going to suggest A leak down test. Its so much better to define issues without any disassembly.  Also you can watch your video by downloading the file to a windows base computer and the playing the download. So was the water coming from a spark plug hole?  If it is a head gasket its not a difficult fix but I would suggest you may try to find someone who does have some experience doing that type of work .   

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minnmarker

With your compression numbers and the water it certainly looks like a head gasket.  Is the water coming out the same cylinders that have low compression?  That would pretty much confirm the head gasket if it ran good just before.

Not a terrible DIY with a push rod engine.  Good luck and take lots of pictures while you are disassembling it and use new intake manifold gaskets and head cover gaskets when you put it back together.  And get a good straight edge to check for warpage.

Oops, just saw high compression in 6 and 8, not low..  It could be a leaky water passage at the back of that side through the intake manifold gasket.  Relatively easy fix.

Edited by minnmarker

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hawaiianstyln
40 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Did you have any overheating or other  issues before you ran your motor on that little bucket of water? 

not at all @oldjeep.  No overheating except once this early summer I had the heater core hose pop off at the bottom of the heater exchange in the engine compartment.  Started filling engine with water and we quickly motored to marina.  I think it got up to about 205

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hawaiianstyln
42 minutes ago, Woodski said:

What did the #6, 8 first pump on the compression check do compared to the others

 

Well I didn't check, I just cranked the engine 5 times and then walked to the back to check the gauge.  I will try one crank and report.  I'm dropping all the water right now in the boat.

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hawaiianstyln
29 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

It could be a leaky water passage at the back of that side through the intake manifold gasket.  Relatively easy fix.

should I take off the ETX CATs?  Those look like a pain to get off with the big hose connected to the silent muffler

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hawaiianstyln

BTW guys, thank you as always.  This is going to cause me to day drink. 

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Chaabo

Weird coincidence, didn’t you just winterize using a massive 1100gph pump feeding your fake-a-lake?

Maybe that excessive water pressure had something to do with it?

I 2nd the leak down test!

Edited by Chaabo

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hawaiianstyln
17 minutes ago, Chaabo said:

Weird coincidence, didn’t you just winterize using a massive 1100gph pump feeding your fake-a-lake?

Maybe that excessive water pressure had something to do with it?

 

God i hope i didnt induce this with that setup yesterday. 

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hawaiianstyln

Can't I do my own leak down?  I thought I can release the compression head of my tester, unscrew the stop valve on the compression test hose, hook the compressor up and screw the compression test hose back into cylinder.  Of course that means I need to remove exhaust risers and valve cover.

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D_Turner

Never messed with boat water systems much, but how hard is it to block off the water exit from the engine?  I know the input side would be easy.  Just cap off the water inlet hose at the water pump.  Cap it off and include an air hose fitting and regulator.  Cap the water exit side completely.  Pressurize the water system and check for leakdown.   If it leaksdown, something in the engine is leaking.....head gasket, block, etc.   might can even tell where the leak is by examining/listening in the suspect cylinders while pressurized.

This is very straight forward in a car...just put some pressure at the radiator and check leakdown.  Boat will be slightly different due to no radiator.  The theory would be the same and allow you to know for sure it is the water system in the engine leaking before tearing into the engine itself.

Google/youtube  “Pressure testing cooling systems” for ideas

Edited by D_Turner

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hawaiianstyln
1 hour ago, Chaabo said:

Weird coincidence, didn’t you just winterize using a massive 1100gph pump feeding your fake-a-lake?

Maybe that excessive water pressure had something to do with it?

I 2nd the leak down test!

This is a good point because if you have too much water pressure couldn't it blow by into the timing cover and then into the oil?

 

At this point I have drained all water and oil from the block.  I think it's a good idea to get new oil and a filter and do an oil flush and let the motor run on the trailer again for about 20 min.  Check the oil again to see if it's milky and then re-check to see if I have water in those valves incase I had water blow by from the 1100 gph pump I had  hooked up to the fake a lake yesterday.  It could be a quick check low cost before I start paying by the hour at a shop.

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minnmarker
4 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

should I take off the ETX CATs?  Those look like a pain to get off with the big hose connected to the silent muffler

You should not have to touch the exhaust side. Just take off the intake plenum and then the intake manifold.

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minnmarker
2 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

This is a good point because if you have too much water pressure couldn't it blow by into the timing cover and then into the oil?

Too much water pressure can be bad.  That's why I leave the thru hull valve open when I use the hose on the T tap in the raw water line.

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hawaiianstyln

I just dumped oil and replaced with new oil and filter and still have milky oil.  Also water came back out of #6 & 8 again after vacuuming water out earlier.  I also have some new clunking issue when in gear.  

I better nt leave the house today im gonna get hit by a damn bus

 

DF7B8D79-0F8C-4713-B6AB-28A987E2F210.MOV

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hawaiianstyln

Update:

when i have water in 6 & 8 the compression is higher which makes sense because added mass in the line as it hits tester?  

When i remove the water by cranking until it all comes out, the compression looks great

Either way wayer is getting in 6 & 8 but more #6.  I think i will just take it to dealer at this point

BC765377-A337-4D70-8134-690FAA64EED7.jpeg

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D_Turner

I was just typing up a post when you replied asking you if the cylinders had noticable water in them when you compression tested them.  Water will not compress, so high amounts of water in the cylinder would show more compression on the gauge.  The water on top of the piston is essentially adding dome to the piston = higher compression.

I am no boat guru , but seems like everything is pointing to the exhaust side of things.  Where is the points to check on the exhaust manifold side for possible water entry for that model?  That is where I would be looking.

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hawaiianstyln

this is exactly what my buddy just said "exhaust side of things", especially after I showed him the compression test without water in the plug holes.

 

 

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D_Turner

You still could have a small crack that doesnt show up in a compression test.  In the auto world a leakdown test on the coolant system would be a good test to be sure just not sure how you cap everything off on a boat.  I think if you could get the water hose off where the water exits the engine and cap that...water usually exits at the front/top of engine at the base of intake manifold.  Then use the hose going into the water pump for setting up your leakdown test you could 100% percent determine yes or no on it being a leak inside the engine or not.

Getting something rigged up like this would tell you for sure

Mityvac MV4560 Radiator/Cooling System and Pressure Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q0p1BbBSRZ5EV

 

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hawaiianstyln

I "Think" or hoping I just found the issue.  I removed the ETX Cat and see water residue on the exhaust ports from the spark plug hole that go into the riser.  They shouldn't be wet and they were.  Maybe start with a riser gasket replacement, change oil and see where I'm at.  If you look at the full pic of all ports, you can see 6 and 8 are rusted and wet looking.

IMG_1894.thumb.PNG.98c559e153dbb8a980d8f36b8effc571.PNGIMG_1888.thumb.jpg.15186f94915e71f33fb4272493234ba2.jpg

 

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BoatFlyRide

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a leak-down tester before you take ANYTHING else apart. They are quite easy to use and could help you identify your problem oh so quickly.

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Sparky450

The 5.7 liter engines are notorious for intake gasket failure. In trucks and cars also. So I have been told. And from experience

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