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jshaff

Damaged Side Panel

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jshaff

Does anyone have advice on how you would fix this issue?  As you can see i am having some separation in the side panel, i am not sure  exactly what caused this.  I am sure replacing this entire panel is probably not the easiest thing, has anyone run into this issue and how did you solve it?

IMG_20181004_121943.jpg

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tvano

very similar to my '04 response.

i pulled the panel off, propped it (exposed side down) close to oem shape, secured that shape w tape

roughed the back side of it w 80 grit paper and applied several layers of fiberglass.

it's stronger now than it was when it came out of the factory.

i had a small tear similar to your small tear, that a small amount of urethane (black and flexible) hardman epoxy cured fixed nicely.

i don't know how you could treat that large tear.

Edited by tvano

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formulaben

If you choose to recover that panel in vinyl, now is a good time to think about the dash too...if you want to change it up here is your chance.  There are some great marine vinyl choices out there.  If you don't want to make that investment right now, then perhaps a smaller "patch" of matched vinyl that would run across the inside corner between the two higher cracks and down to the bottom would work.

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Eagleboy99

Someone stepped on it or used the throttle lever to get out of the boat.  Kill them.  :)

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tvano

mine did the same and there is no chance that it was stepped on or abused.

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Eagleboy99
1 hour ago, tvano said:

mine did the same and there is no chance that it was stepped on or abused.

I believe you, but the image sure shows  forecable damage.  How else could it have happened?

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tvano
On 10/12/2018 at 11:14 PM, Eagleboy99 said:

I believe you, but the image sure shows  forecable damage.  How else could it have happened?

That oem panel is too brittle and mine should have had support at front bottom lip. I added that support when repairing it. 

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Eagleboy99

I get brittle, but  where is the force being applied to cause it to snap?

 

 

 

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Slurpee

Wow. That is wild. Is it just the weight of the throttle assembly and what not slowly bending what form there is till it cracks?

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wdr
13 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

I get brittle, but  where is the force being applied to cause it to snap?

 

 

 

The driver is pushing and pulling on the throttle, pulling up on the throttle lockout button. The throttle handle assembly is hung on a paper thin plastic panel that is bouncing around with the waves and to make matters worse there is a throttle cable which is probably not properly strain relieved applying downward  force to the throttle assembly and panel as well. 

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Eagleboy99
56 minutes ago, wdr said:

The driver is pushing and pulling on the throttle, pulling up on the throttle lockout button. The throttle handle assembly is hung on a paper thin plastic panel that is bouncing around with the waves and to make matters worse there is a throttle cable which is probably not properly strain relieved applying downward  force to the throttle assembly and panel as well. 

Makes sense - and show the craptastic build level.

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UWSkier
21 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Makes sense - and show the craptastic build level.

That is pretty flimsy.  I get it from an aesthetic perspective why they went to that design, but the previous designs mounted a Morse MV2 right to the fiberglass and did the same with the stereo.  The throttle in my dad's '01 VLX is bulletproof and is mounted directly to glass.  My '01 Response, it's flimsy and kindof hanging there in one of these goofy rigs.

Edited by UWSkier

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jshaff

Wow, i clearly missed a lot here and forgot all about it.  It's most likely this happened prior to me buying the boat, and i didn't notice.  Unfortunately it has gotten worse, and i will likely try a vinyl patch come spring.

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wdr

IIWM, I would buy either a thin sheet of HDPE plastic or aluminum and make a backing plate big enough to hang the assembly on and attach to the fiberglass. Otherwise it will continue ro break. Jm2c

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JasonK

It should be screwed into the hull side "blocks" at the bottom edge. All my screws vibrated out, so nothing was supporting the bottom of the panel. I rebuilt it and added an aluminum strip at the bottom where it's screwed into the hull blocks. Prob going to have to check the screws every year.

I think that's where most people put their hand to help them stand up or sit down.

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jshaff
On 2/20/2019 at 9:01 PM, wdr said:

IIWM, I would buy either a thin sheet of HDPE plastic or aluminum and make a backing plate big enough to hang the assembly on and attach to the fiberglass. Otherwise it will continue ro break. Jm2c

I will probably try and cut some HDPE and make a backing plate that roughly follows the contour, then attach the panel to it.

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formulaben
On 10/12/2018 at 6:30 AM, tvano said:

very similar to my '04 response.

i pulled the panel off, propped it (exposed side down) close to oem shape, secured that shape w tape

roughed the back side of it w 80 grit paper and applied several layers of fiberglass.

it's stronger now than it was when it came out of the factory.

For what its worth, my friends 2000 LSV the panel is 1/8" thick fiberglass with a vinyl cover.  It is WAY stronger than my 2002, which is some kind of plastic.  I was surprised how flimsy the panel on my boat was given that it supported the shifter/throttle mechanism, stereo, and the driver's right arm.  I had considered adding some fiberglass to mine but had way too many project last winter.

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jshaff
On 10/12/2018 at 8:30 AM, tvano said:

very similar to my '04 response.

i pulled the panel off, propped it (exposed side down) close to oem shape, secured that shape w tape

roughed the back side of it w 80 grit paper and applied several layers of fiberglass.

it's stronger now than it was when it came out of the factory.

i had a small tear similar to your small tear, that a small amount of urethane (black and flexible) hardman epoxy cured fixed nicely.

i don't know how you could treat that large tear.

How difficult is it to get the entire panel off?  I know that the bottom is secured with screws, but how is the top attached to the fiber glass?

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cowwboy

Great lakes used to and may still have that panel brand new, 

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formulaben
59 minutes ago, jshaff said:

How difficult is it to get the entire panel off?  I know that the bottom is secured with screws, but how is the top attached to the fiber glass?

The 3rd nut (most forward) is hard to reach from behind, so taking the interior panel just aft of it might be necessary.  Since I already had it off I didn't bother to try from the front, but I guess it would have been somewhat difficult due to all the wires, but probably doable.

2vnkk1v.jpg

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Keel05
Posted (edited)

I just changed out my radio and had to take this panel off to get to some wiring. I didn't remove any other panels to take this one off. However, I'd recommend removing the captain's chair, as it gets in the way. The captain's chair can be removed by taking out four bolts that hold the chair to the riser. To remove the throttle panel, take the screws out at the bottom of the panel (my boat had two screws at the bottom). Next, there's one screw under the dash, right around the lower right-hand corner of your dash panel (under the ignition switch). Once you've taken the screws out, there's three bolts holding the panel to the fiberglass. Get the most forward bolt first. 7/16" socket will do it. the nut you're removing has a nylon insert, so all you need is the ratchet... no need to try and hold the other side of the bolt with a wrench or anything. Lying under the steering wheel, I was able to get the most forward and middle nuts off. For the rear one, there's a small gap at the back of the panel. I was able to maneuver enough to take the third nut off. After the nuts are off, the panel will slide away from the fiberglass.

Edited by Keel05
hit enter accidentally

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