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Cazan

Poll: Winterize- dry or antifreeze?

Winterize. Dry block or antifreeze?  

60 members have voted

  1. 1. Which one do you do?

    • Drain and leave dry
      31
    • Drain and add antifreeze
      29


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Cazan

I read the majority of the threads here and it seems some dry block it and some use antifreeze.  So I’m curious which one do you or your dealer do for you and why? Anti-corrosion, peace of mind, etc...

Edited by Cazan
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MalibuNation

Antifreeze  for corrosion protection.

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hawaiianstyln

I've been dry-blocking it for years but from what I understand, leaving the internals dry will still have moisture locked inside for months.  So why let that happen when you can pump RV AV thru which has the preventative anti-corrosion supplements for less than $15 and your time.  I will be winterizing here in MI but not until around December since I have a heated garage and still may use the boat with a drysuit.

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Hemmy
3 hours ago, MalibuNation said:

Antifreeze  for corrosion protection.

Do you leave the antifreeze in during storage or do you run it through and drain it?

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MalibuNation

Leave it in for the whole winter.

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BlackBluMalibu

I drain and then run antifreeze and leave it in for the duration.  Sometimes I have to do it two or three times each winter as we are able to hit the warm side of Lake Anna in the dead of winter when we get those warmer days. It only takes 30 to 45 minutes depending on how quick I want to move after the day on the water.

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wedge88

I use to "Dry Store" but started filling block with antifreeze for corrosion protection as well as piece of mind.  I was kinda shocked when I did go the antifreeze route as I use to change fluids, drain block and hoses and put it away.  The first year I added antifreeze, I did fluid change, drained block and hoses and all points in manual, connected a small pool cover pump in 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze to my fake a lake and started boat.  Works like a charm to get antifreeze to block but what made my jaw drop was the amount of water, after I fired it up, that came shooting out of the exhaust.  Never had an issue doing the dry store route but a lot of water is still in their after draining everything.

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Cazan

So why does Indmar recommend just draining and leaving dry? 

 

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MLA

I you get a thorough drain, then the marine/rv antifreeze is not needed for freeze protection. As to corrosion protection, it seems that not all forms of marine/rv antifreeze are the same. 

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oldjeep

I drain it all and then dump in antifreeze through the hoses, especially the heater core.  Extra level of protection against corrosion and any stray water that may be left in the system.

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oldjeep
1 minute ago, MLA said:

I you get a thorough drain, then the marine/rv antifreeze is not needed for freeze protection. As to corrosion protection, it seems that not all forms of marine/rv antifreeze are the same. 

Correct, some is for toilets and some is for engines

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Hemmy

How many gallons of anitfreeze will I need to put in a 6.2 410?  What brands are you using?  I have looked at a couple of different brands of RV/Boat antifreeze and have seen a lot of mixed reviews.

Thanks in advance.

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oldjeep
2 minutes ago, Hemmy said:

How many gallons of anitfreeze will I need to put in a 6.2 410?  What brands are you using?  I have looked at a couple of different brands of RV/Boat antifreeze and have seen a lot of mixed reviews.

Thanks in advance.

A 6.2 410 is a raptor engine, correct?  And don't those have closed cooling, so all you do is drain the heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds?

For antifreeze I use the Camco Banfrost 2000

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Cazan
21 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

A 6.2 410 is a raptor engine, correct?  And don't those have closed cooling, so all you do is drain the heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds?

For antifreeze I use the Camco Banfrost 2000

Where do you buy it from? 

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oldjeep
4 minutes ago, Cazan said:

Where do you buy it from? 

I got it off amazon or ebay or walmart. Com.  Don't recall since i buy a case at a time and it has been a couple of years.  I'll be out after this round of winterizing and get another case in the spring when it is cheap. 

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MLA
53 minutes ago, Hemmy said:

How many gallons of anitfreeze will I need to put in a 6.2 410?  What brands are you using?  I have looked at a couple of different brands of RV/Boat antifreeze and have seen a lot of mixed reviews.

Thanks in advance.

Like noted, your engine is closed cooler, so do not drain the block or heater, if equipped. You only need to drain the heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds. Would only take a couple of gallons to flush them, if you choose to do so. 

 

Id worry less about a brand, and more about what its intended purpose it. Like I said, some are intended purely for fresh water system freeze protection and offer not corrosion inhibitors, if thats your bag.    

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05hammerhead

How are you all getting them up to temp?I know lots of people just pump it in and call it good, but that wont really help with corrosion unless you get it to temp correct?  I know the local dealer uses a feed trough to capture all the antifreeze and pumps from there through the intake.  I also know they leave all their stock boats dry and dont bother with antifreeze.

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sunvalleylaw

My old Response grew up in a place where it was just drained and stored over the winter inside, where it never saw a freezing temp.  (Western WA, right near Bake's Marine).  Since here, I have stored with anti-freeze.  First year I had some one do it.  Since, I have done it myself.  

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ahopkinsVTX
1 hour ago, MLA said:

Like noted, your engine is closed cooler, so do not drain the block or heater, if equipped. You only need to drain the heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds. Would only take a couple of gallons to flush them, if you choose to do so. 

 

Id worry less about a brand, and more about what its intended purpose it. Like I said, some are intended purely for fresh water system freeze protection and offer not corrosion inhibitors, if thats your bag.    

There are also multiple drain points near the v drive and transmission. The heat exchanger and manifolds are not the only things he needs to drain. 

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LateNightSalami
1 hour ago, 05hammerhead said:

How are you all getting them up to temp?I know lots of people just pump it in and call it good, but that wont really help with corrosion unless you get it to temp correct?  I know the local dealer uses a feed trough to capture all the antifreeze and pumps from there through the intake.  I also know they leave all their stock boats dry and dont bother with antifreeze.

I was wondering about this too. From a few comments I have read (for non-closed cooling engines) it is implied that if you drain the block it will open up to allow antifreeze all through the engine? But if you are just trying to run anti-freeze through a water filled engine you need to run it up to temp first to get the Tstat to open up? I am not entirely sure so would love to hear someone confirm. (My engine is a 2008 Monsoon 340).

There is a sponsored video on winterizing floating around here somewhere and it drains the block then uses a fake lake to get the anti-freeze in the engine. I am assuming the anti-freeze is getting into the block with this method?

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Cazan
6 minutes ago, LateNightSalami said:

I was wondering about this too. From a few comments I have read (for non-closed cooling engines) it is implied that if you drain the block it will open up to allow antifreeze all through the engine? But if you are just trying to run anti-freeze through a water filled engine you need to run it up to temp first to get the Tstat to open up? I am not entirely sure so would love to hear someone confirm. (My engine is a 2008 Monsoon 340).

There is a sponsored video on winterizing floating around here somewhere and it drains the block then uses a fake lake to get the anti-freeze in the engine. I am assuming the anti-freeze is getting into the block with this method?

I might be it might not be.  If not up to temp it will just bypass and come out the exhaust.  I pull the hose off the Tstat housing and manual poor in to make sure it’s getting into the block. 

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Ryan1776
2 hours ago, 05hammerhead said:

How are you all getting them up to temp?I know lots of people just pump it in and call it good, but that wont really help with corrosion unless you get it to temp correct?  I know the local dealer uses a feed trough to capture all the antifreeze and pumps from there through the intake.  I also know they leave all their stock boats dry and dont bother with antifreeze.

 

42 minutes ago, LateNightSalami said:

I was wondering about this too. From a few comments I have read (for non-closed cooling engines) it is implied that if you drain the block it will open up to allow antifreeze all through the engine? But if you are just trying to run anti-freeze through a water filled engine you need to run it up to temp first to get the Tstat to open up? I am not entirely sure so would love to hear someone confirm. (My engine is a 2008 Monsoon 340).

There is a sponsored video on winterizing floating around here somewhere and it drains the block then uses a fake lake to get the anti-freeze in the engine. I am assuming the anti-freeze is getting into the block with this method?

Here ya go. Couple PVC pipes into the bucket, pump the coolant mix back into the raw water pickup BEFORE the trans. Let it run until it gets to temp. If you have a heater, when you get heat too, you know the core is full. I haven't done it yet, but plan on doing it exactly this way. If you have FAE, you're even closer to doing this. 

I'm going to use one of my throw over ballast pumps to feed back to the raw water inlet. 

 

 

Edited by Ryan1776

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TomH
57 minutes ago, LateNightSalami said:

I was wondering about this too. From a few comments I have read (for non-closed cooling engines) it is implied that if you drain the block it will open up to allow antifreeze all through the engine? But if you are just trying to run anti-freeze through a water filled engine you need to run it up to temp first to get the Tstat to open up? I am not entirely sure so would love to hear someone confirm. (My engine is a 2008 Monsoon 340).

There is a sponsored video on winterizing floating around here somewhere and it drains the block then uses a fake lake to get the anti-freeze in the engine. I am assuming the anti-freeze is getting into the block with this method?

If you drain first, the anti-freeze will fill the block through the circulation pump.  If you have a block full of water before you add anti-freeze, it will only bring anti-freeze into the block based on how much the thermostat is letting water out.  If the thermostat was closed, it would be shunting most/all of the anti-freeze to the exhaust manifolds, leaving you with a block ready made to crack.  Even if the thermostat is open in that instance, there's still a good chance you'll end up with a mixture of anti-freeze and water and you'd be rolling the dice on freeze protection level.

 

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MattyICE15

Easier draining all hoses/block and then pouring the antifreeze in manually through J hose. I leave the petcock open at the bottom of the block to verify I'm getting AF in the block then I close her up and top her off. I hook up my garden hose connection to a bucket of AF after i fill the block just to run some through the other misc systems. this way i have no concerns of having residual water in my block.

Edited by MattyICE15

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96Response

 

 

I drain everything first , then I always pull the T-Stat and put back on the housing. Now without a doubt, The Antifreeze Goes directly into the engine. I never rely on a T-Stat to remain open . If its doing its job it should be opening and closing to maintain temps. Then remove the T-Stat housing and top off with Antifreeze. I do all this and my Garage is heated. LOL. Never hurts to be safe. If the heat goes out I'm Good. 

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