Water circulation problem

[oldjeep]

1 hour ago, footndale said:

Which is this hose.

Yup.  The j hose.  Pull it all the way off to drain water then put bottom back on and pour anti freeze in top.  Also fill through top heater hose. 

[Michigan boarder]

1 hour ago, oldjeep said:

Yup.  The j hose.  Pull it all the way off to drain water then put bottom back on and pour anti freeze in top.  Also fill through top heater hose. 

Yep.  And when I fill the J hose I lift it up, so it is higher than the top of the thermostat, and I pour it in until antifreeze comes out of the thermostat housing, so you know it's full top to bottom.

[dlb]

I still don’t understand “why antifreeze”...  drain all the water.... and be done with it.

Malibu recommendations are nothing more nothing less.  

For 25 years this is what I have done...   Winter has come and gone, freezing included, and every spring I put it all back together... and all is well.

[oldjeep]

Just now, dlb said:

I still don’t understand “why antifreeze”...  drain all the water.... and be done with it.

Malibu recommendations are nothing more nothing less.  

For 25 years this is what I have done...   Winter has come and gone, freezing included, and every spring I put it all back together... and all is well.

Corrosion protection.  It is especially nice for heater cores. 

[formulaben]

1 hour ago, dlb said:

I still don’t understand “why antifreeze”...  drain all the water.... and be done with it.

Malibu recommendations are nothing more nothing less.  

For 25 years this is what I have done...   Winter has come and gone, freezing included, and every spring I put it all back together... and all is well.

Then don't do it.

[justgary]

12 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Corrosion protection.  It is especially nice for heater cores. 

I guess I'll jump in here and ask about the corrosion protection thing.  Your heater core should be copper, which is fairly benign in a wet air environment.  The engine block is iron, which is not at all benign in that environment.  If you are worried that you didn't get all the water out of the heater core, I understand.  I'd be more concerned with corrosion protection for the engine block than the heater, but what about the rest of the year when the block sits with raw water in it?

All of these threads about winterizing and corrosion protection keep pointing to the same truth, which is that your best bet all around is closed cooling.  That way your block and heater are protected from corrosion year round, and you simply dump the raw water side of your heat exchanger and manifolds to winterize.  After converting my boat to closed cooling, I'm sure I would never have another inboard without it.  It is money well spent.

[oldjeep]

16 minutes ago, justgary said:

I guess I'll jump in here and ask about the corrosion protection thing.  Your heater core should be copper, which is fairly benign in a wet air environment.  The engine block is iron, which is not at all benign in that environment.  If you are worried that you didn't get all the water out of the heater core, I understand.  I'd be more concerned with corrosion protection for the engine block than the heater, but what about the rest of the year when the block sits with raw water in it?

All of these threads about winterizing and corrosion protection keep pointing to the same truth, which is that your best bet all around is closed cooling.  That way your block and heater are protected from corrosion year round, and you simply dump the raw water side of your heat exchanger and manifolds to winterize.  After converting my boat to closed cooling, I'm sure I would never have another inboard without it.  It is money well spent.

Copper rots very quickly when exposed to air and the kind of crap that is in lake water

[boardjnky4]

26 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Copper rots very quickly when exposed to air and the kind of crap that is in lake water

So it's ok for it to sit in the engine all summer but not all winter?

[kerpluxal]

1 hour ago, justgary said:

I guess I'll jump in here and ask about the corrosion protection thing.  Your heater core should be copper, which is fairly benign in a wet air environment.  The engine block is iron, which is not at all benign in that environment.  If you are worried that you didn't get all the water out of the heater core, I understand.  I'd be more concerned with corrosion protection for the engine block than the heater, but what about the rest of the year when the block sits with raw water in it?

All of these threads about winterizing and corrosion protection keep pointing to the same truth, which is that your best bet all around is closed cooling.  That way your block and heater are protected from corrosion year round, and you simply dump the raw water side of your heat exchanger and manifolds to winterize.  After converting my boat to closed cooling, I'm sure I would never have another inboard without it.  It is money well spent.

How much was it to convert and where did you get the kit?

[oldjeep]

16 minutes ago, boardjnky4 said:

So it's ok for it to sit in the engine all summer but not all winter?

Jeebus, do what you want but think for a second.  In the summer it is full of water - typically you need air and water to cause corrosion.  Think about the green corrosion that occurs on the outside of your home water pipes that sweat - ever seen that inside a pipe - nope, not unless the pipe has been left dry. 

In your boat in the winter you have drained the water out, but there is still moisture and air in the entire cooling system - unless you put in antifreeze to displace all the air and provide the corrosion protection

[justgary]

3 hours ago, kerpluxal said:

How much was it to convert and where did you get the kit?

http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/46975-1999-monsoon-ii-12-fresh-water-conversion/

About $1000 as I recall.  The fun part was making sure it would fit under the hood on my direct drive.  Absolutely no issues so far, but it is probably time to change the coolant.