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Gara

Transmission clanking in reverse and seeing this

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Gara

Took it out this morning and really clanking into reverse. (Newly purchased 02 Response).  Don't know if it's normal but: 1) I noticed  this which looks like something should be in the hole; 2) I can turn it a fair amount with my hand (1/8 turn) before it bangs into a gear.  Any thoughts appreciated.  Transmission fluid is full and looks new.

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UWSkier

Are you sure the transmission cable is adjusted properly?  One of the first things I did on my '01 when I got it home was replace the transmission and throttle cables and the cable pivots behind the throttle.  It took some messing around to get right.  I've also noticed the MV3 control is a bit sloppy on the transmission shift arm.  Probably need to replace the control.

Does your throttle seem very "abrupt?"  Mine was stretched to the point that the transmission would go into gear, then immediately the engine would surge.  I adjusted the new cables when I put them in so there was a bit of extra travel between "in-gear" and "throttle open."

Look more closely at your photo.  There IS something in that hole.  Allen head set screw nestles way down deep in there.  Blurry pic just taken.

IMG_20180922_150231.jpg

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Chaabo

Should clearly not “bang” into gear. There’s definitely something wrong! It whines when put in reverse though, but that’s unfortunately totally normal.

I never liked that whining noise and it’s probably one of the biggest dislikes I had and still have with all three Responses I owned to date.

Only thing I can think of right now is the damper plate. Which is a pretty good job to replace. The plate itself is not that expensive, but you have to pull the transmission to get to it.

There’s a write-up somewhere on this site on how to do it.

Did you not test drove the boat prior to buying?

Edited by Chaabo

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wdr

In your pic it looks like the prop shaft coupler nut Allen screw (1/8” iirc) is installed correctly, but is hard to tell for sure. It keeps the the prop shaft nut (nyloc nut) from backing off of the prop shaft on the inside of the coupler. The nut will draw and secure the coupler onto the prop shaft and uses a brass key to keep the pieces together. The prop shaft should not be spinning inside of the coupler unless the brass key stock inside of the couple is trashed. If so, that could create the clunk you are hearing. If the nut wasn’t properly torqued it may of allowed some rearward movement of the shaft and potentially some torsionally wear of the brass key. I would start at the prop and make sure it is not the prop spinning on the shaft instead of a coupler issue. An improperly installed prop would exhibit the same symptoms and would require the same fix. 

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Gara

OK, that helps. For starters, I went to the prop itself and could spin it back and forth a bit and have it make a loud clank.  I noticed it was up against the prop nut but there seemed to be a gap between the forward part of the prop and the strut. prop 9/23/18   I pushed the prop forward and it moved about 1/8" and then it doesn't spin on the shaft and does not clank.

So maybe it is not properly installed, as wdr suggested.  I will say that at the last launching, there was a loud clank as we got the boat off the trailer.  Couldn't figure it out.  The prop looks fine but I wonder if I could have hit anything (including the trailer? It's the original custom trailer).  Although the direction seems like if anything it would have pushed the prop forward.

One question is does that strut look right or is the bushing pulled out a bit?

 

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Rednucleus

If you are saying you can move the prop on the shaft, that is almost certainly where the problem lies. Need to pull the prop, check the key & shaft for any damage & re-install. Do not use boat again until this is addressed.

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UWSkier

Agreed.  Pull prop and get it looked at.  If it's slopping around on the shaft, it's fairly likely the bore is egged.

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Gara

Yes. I've pulled the prop. Having some issues putting it back on with new key.  Without a key, the prop slides on to about 3/4" from strut. With the new key, about 1"+. I assume I have to get it back to its natural seating position? The old key looks worn.  But I think the prop backed off somehow.  I didn't have to use the prop puller. It just came backwards.

Will clean out the key slot to see if it has corrosion keeping the new one from going in. New one came with the ACME Weekend Saver kit.

And what bore is egged?  I have a new prop I can use, but if you are saying it's a shaft problem let me know.  All three prop's (the existing; a just refurbished 525, and a 515 from previous boat which worked fine) all go same distance up the shaft.

Edited by Gara

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Chaabo

The prop is not supposed to touch the strut!

Slide it on w/o the key and mark it’s fwd position on the shaft. With key inserted it should slide into the same position. If not file the key down a bit. Once the prop nut is tightened, the prop should not budge on the shaft!

Re - your 2nd question 

That strut looks perfectly fine!

I like the SS underwater gear some Responses came with. Extra bling. lol

Edited by Chaabo

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UWSkier
1 hour ago, Gara said:

Yes. I've pulled the prop. Having some issues putting it back on with new key.  Without a key, the prop slides on to about 3/4" from strut. With the new key, about 1"+. I assume I have to get it back to its natural seating position? The old key looks worn.  But I think the prop backed off somehow.  I didn't have to use the prop puller. It just came backwards.

Will clean out the key slot to see if it has corrosion keeping the new one from going in. New one came with the ACME Weekend Saver kit.

And what bore is egged?  I have a new prop I can use, but if you are saying it's a shaft problem let me know.  All three prop's (the existing; a just refurbished 525, and a 515 from previous boat which worked fine) all go same distance up the shaft.

The bore of the prop hub that was on there might be out of round if it was flopping around on the shaft loosely.  Shaft is hard stainless and should be fine but brass is soft.

Edited by UWSkier

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powbmps

Sounds like you are figuring it out, but what is your boat idling at when you shift it into reverse?  Not sure what the LS-1 should idle at, but the Monsoon 335 is only 650.  I think a high idle can make it shift rough?

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Gara

OK, thanks very much!  I filed down the new key and used a bit of force by tightening the prop nut to get it to the end of its proper travel.  Tested it out and it is nice and smooth in both forward and reverse.  Very much appreciate the assistance.  All new to me....

Idle is 650.

The bling is nice.  I'm thinking it's chrome, though.  Will look it up.

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Eagleboy99

Absolutely NOT chrome - SS.  Supplied by Marine Hardware in the PNW.

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UWSkier
4 minutes ago, Gara said:

OK, thanks very much!  I filed down the new key and used a bit of force by tightening the prop nut to get it to the end of its proper travel.  Tested it out and it is nice and smooth in both forward and reverse.  Very much appreciate the assistance.  All new to me....

Idle is 650.

The bling is nice.  I'm thinking it's chrome, though.  Will look it up.

stainless.  Came with LS1 some years.

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Woodski

@Gara:  You should not have to add force to get the prop to properly seat.  I suggest you remove the prop as it sounds from your comments you might not have the key in the right spot, which is easy to have it slide forward.  The shaft key groove is rounded at the ends and if the key slides forward it can lift up and not allow the prop to seat correctly.  It sounds like some of your filing helped but it might still be a bit too far forward.  

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wdr

If you want to be sure that the prop is seated properly all you have to do is remove everything and slide the prop back on until it stops. Mark the shaft where the prop stops and then install and adjust the key stock (if needed) until you can get the prop to seat on the mark. Nut up, torque to spec and install the cotter pin. Viola!

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Gara

Since the old keys fit perfectly, but are pretty worn, I'll order a new one and nut and remove and replace the prop as you say.

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