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The Hulk

Prop is stuck

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The Hulk

Any ideas on how to remove a prop that is stuck?

Used prop puller as hard as I could, used hammer on back if prop puller as hard as I could ..without missing.. won't budge!

Sludge hammer? 

Wanted to switch props but seems like it's on there for good. Any other tricks?

Edited by The Hulk

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oldjeep
1 hour ago, The Hulk said:

Any ideas on how to remove a prop that is stuck?

Used prop puller as hard as I could, used hammer on back if prop puller as hard as I could ..without missing.. won't budge!

Sludge hammer? 

Wanted to switch props but seems like it's on there for good. Any other tricks?

1) If you over tighten the prop puller it can deflect and make it even harder to get the prop off. 

2) Heat the prop hub up with a propane torch before you smack the puller

3) Hit the puller on the side of the C, not the bolt

 

Edited by oldjeep

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MadMan

An old trick is to lube up the threads on the puller itself.  Dry threads have a lot more friction.  This has worked for me with other pullers (not prop).

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oldjeep
1 minute ago, MadMan said:

An old trick is to lube up the threads on the puller itself.  Dry threads have a lot more friction.  This has worked for me with other pullers (not prop).

You are not supposed to actually pull the prop with the puller.  They bend pretty easy if you try. Seen this first hand with another crew member. 

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MadMan
14 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

You are not supposed to actually pull the prop with the puller.  They bend pretty easy if you try. Seen this first hand with another crew member. 

Yea, that could happen with one of those aluminum "hobby" prop pullers from Acme or OJ.  The steel ones don't have this problem.

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oldjeep
15 minutes ago, MadMan said:

Yea, that could happen with one of those aluminum "hobby" prop pullers from Acme or OJ.  The steel ones don't have this problem.

Dont know about the oj, but acme is stainless steel and it was an acme one that bent. 

Edited by oldjeep

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MadMan
8 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Dont know about the oj, but acme is stainless steel and it was an acme one that bent. 

Interesting, the one I saw was aluminum, guess they make more than one type.

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Chaabo

A few good hints here!

Heat is the way to go with stubborn props.

Greasing the prop puller’s threads as said above can help.

Loosen prop nut, but do not remove completely, tighten the prop puller to where it starts to slightly bent, apply heat on all sides of the prop hub, use a small (!) hammer and give the prop puller a series of good, repeatedly taps on the side. It’s really just taps to transfer some vibration into the material of the prop. Might take 20 - 30 taps to break the prop free of the shaft.

You might have to re-tighten the puller in between your taps and even re-heat the prop hub.

Good Luck!

 

*edit* - Just watched the video posted above.

My 2 Cents - use the prop puller facing the ground, not the hull of the boat. Tap the puller on the side facing the bow of the boat, not on it’s bent. Do not use a crescent wrench! Get at least the right size of wrench, still better use a ratchet and a socket. The taps the Wakemaker guy applies are not sufficient for a stuck prop! Give it a little more uump and you might even want to use a slightly smaller hammer.

Keep in mind - It’s really not to “hammer” the prop of, the taps are just to brake free the friction between the prop and the shaft, so all you need to accomplish is to get enough vibration transferred into the prop hub.

Edited by Chaabo
Just watched the Wakemaker guy - lol

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Nitrousbird
1 hour ago, MadMan said:

Yea, that could happen with one of those aluminum "hobby" prop pullers from Acme or OJ.  The steel ones don't have this problem.

I had two of the OJ pullers...aluminum, no.  Pot metal, absolutely.  Barely tightened both and they snapped in half.  Their customer service sucked too for the situation - luckily the vendor too care of me but I'll never do business with them again.

My Acme puller, though, worked well getting the same prop off the OJ failed miserably.  Trick is tightening it down (tighten it fairly good, but don't take your bad day out on it).  I always smack the back of it...usually a few taps breaks the prop loose.  If not, heat the hub with a torch while smacking and it will come off.

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tvano

tighten the prop puller then walk away

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mgb1974

+3 on heat. I had one stuck with a sheared key. Put the prop puller on and tightened it as if pulling off. Then add heat, it will pop off and scare the heck out of you. 

Just heat the prop itself. The prop material expands faster then the steel shaft.

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jwl019

Spray a little WD-40 or similar on the backside of the prop so it goes down between the prop and shaft, give it a few minutes to work it's way down. Tighten prop puller pretty snug and tap the prop puller bolt a couple times with hammer or backside of prop, tighten a bit more, tap again, repeat if needed but I doubt you will need to.

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shawndoggy

starting from easiest to hardest and working your way up:

tighten prop puller pretty good (but don't go crazy... Bruce Banner can remove a prop.  No need to get angry)

if it doesn't come off give a few light taps on back of puller with your dead blow hammer

see if you can snug down the prop puller just a little (like 1/8 of a turn)

if it doesn't come off pour a few cups of very hot water over the prop

see if you can snug down the prop puller just a little (like 1/8 of a turn)

If it doesn't come off, drip a little WD40, walk away for a while, come back, give a few more taps (and maybe a good whack) with your deadblow hammer.

see if you can snug down the prop puller just a little (like 1/8 of a turn)

If it doesn't come off try some "real" heat, like the butane torch on the hub

 

... personally I've never gotten past the hot water step.

 

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Sparky450
33 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

starting from easiest to hardest and working your way up:

tighten prop puller pretty good (but don't go crazy... Bruce Banner can remove a prop.  No need to get angry)

if it doesn't come off give a few light taps on back of puller with your dead blow hammer

see if you can snug down the prop puller just a little (like 1/8 of a turn)

if it doesn't come off pour a few cups of very hot water over the prop

see if you can snug down the prop puller just a little (like 1/8 of a turn)

If it doesn't come off, drip a little WD40, walk away for a while, come back, give a few more taps (and maybe a good whack) with your deadblow hammer.

see if you can snug down the prop puller just a little (like 1/8 of a turn)

If it doesn't come off try some "real" heat, like the butane torch on the hub

 

... personally I've never gotten past the hot water step.

 

And after all of this didn't work. I had to use a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel to get one off. 😩

 

Edited by Sparky450

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shawndoggy
1 minute ago, Sparky450 said:

And after all of this didn't work. I had to use a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel to get one off. 😩

 

under normal circumstances (i.e. key not sheared) on a 2015 boat (i.e. prop hadn't been fused to shaft for 15 years)?  

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Sparky450

Sheared key. On less than a year. I think about 6 months. Would not budge. Very little damage to the prop. I did not expect the key to be sheared. 

Edited by Sparky450

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Slurpee

I didn't see it mentioned yet.

Rotate the prop puller 90 degrees around the prop every attempt. That can help walk the prop off with the deflection you get from the puller. I had one prop with a sheared key and it spun nearly half way around and froze.  OJ gave me this tip and after about the 3rd time around putting a lot of umph on each attempt it popped off.  I was using a torch to heat the prop every iteration as well.  GO EASY!

Another more drastic approach - requiring complete patience and sobriety mind you - is to use a dremel and some cutting fluid and a bit to drill down the length of the slot in the prop and remove halve of the key material that sheared off.  This reduced the binding force for me once after several drilled out sections that it just came off.  

Now after two PITA ridiculous prop pulls when I put a prop back on I use just the thinnest amount of water proof grease on the shaft.  Now those things come off pretty text book every time no matter what.

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Cole2001

Put the boat in the water and give a quick blast of reverse. Haven’t tried it myself but heard of it before. 

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oldjeep
8 minutes ago, Cole2001 said:

Put the boat in the water and give a quick blast of reverse. Haven’t tried it myself but heard of it before. 

Awesome way to shear a key if you backed the nut off. If not then does nothing. 

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The Hulk
32 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

I didn't see it mentioned yet.

Rotate the prop puller 90 degrees around the prop every attempt. That can help walk the prop off with the deflection you get from the puller. I had one prop with a sheared key and it spun nearly half way around and froze.  OJ gave me this tip and after about the 3rd time around putting a lot of umph on each attempt it popped off.  I was using a torch to heat the prop every iteration as well.  GO EASY!

Another more drastic approach - requiring complete patience and sobriety mind you - is to use a dremel and some cutting fluid and a bit to drill down the length of the slot in the prop and remove halve of the key material that sheared off.  This reduced the binding force for me once after several drilled out sections that it just came off.  

Now after two PITA ridiculous prop pulls when I put a prop back on I use just the thinnest amount of water proof grease on the shaft.  Now those things come off pretty text book every time no matter what.

Used grease before I put the one on there back on . Tried turning puller a few different sides.. I'll be left to try some wd40 leave it for a day then I'll come back with torch errr was really hoping to try the new prop and see how it lowered RPMs but not sure I'll get another run in this season.. 15 minute job turned into over an hour I had to leave it on there people wanted to surf.. 

It's my fault I said it would take 15 minutes

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MadMan

If I were in the market for a puller, I'd get a forged steel one, something like this:

https://www.bakesonline.com/prop-puller-only-ironman-inboard-puller.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_vfcBRDJARIsAJafEnHUtA1NDUMUtCS9kimSQPAB7fA0qSrQC_bxQFcdlPRlK6vhtCoVALAaAvdvEALw_wcB

Truthfully, I didn't even realize someone would make a cast or aluminum puller.  All the automotive ones I have are forged steel.  No reason to have a prop puller that can't pull a prop.

Edited by MadMan

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oldjeep
33 minutes ago, MadMan said:

If I were in the market for a puller, I'd get a forged steel one, something like this:

https://www.bakesonline.com/prop-puller-only-ironman-inboard-puller.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_vfcBRDJARIsAJafEnHUtA1NDUMUtCS9kimSQPAB7fA0qSrQC_bxQFcdlPRlK6vhtCoVALAaAvdvEALw_wcB

Truthfully, I didn't even realize someone would make a cast or aluminum puller.  All the automotive ones I have are forged steel.  No reason to have a prop puller that can't pull a prop.

Here's my theory.  I have a puller designed to remove hubs from 2 piece axle shafts.  They are dangerous, i put it through the drywall and almost through the exterior wall of my shop.  It is a heck of a lot safer to use harmonics than brute force. 

Edited by oldjeep

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MadMan
37 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Here's my theory.  I have a puller designed to remove hubs from 2 piece axle shafts.  They are dangerous, i put it through the drywall and almost through the exterior wall of my shop.  It is a heck of a lot safer to use harmonics than brute force. 

Yep, you've got to be aware of what you are doing.  Even something as mundane as changing a tire can be dangerous.

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