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383 Hammerhead Stalls every 5-10 seconds


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I was out yesterday and everything was running great for our morning wake board sets.  Took a break for lunch and then went out to surf.  Filled up all the ballast and went to pull the first rider up.  She fell and on the way back I felt it bog then it stalled.  Started it up again and same thing, runs for like 5-10 seconds and then dies. I tried like 6 times and had to get towed back in.

The weird thing is my oil level was low so that morning I added 1/2 quart and got it almost to the full mark.  The last time I added oil within an hour the boat ran like garbage with a pretty crazy spark knock and loss of fuel pressure and I took it in and they replaced distributor cap, rotor and fuel filter (20 hrs ago this season).  Which was weird because I replaced all that like 10 to 15hrs before that along with wires and plugs. So the only two times I've added oil I've made the boat unusable. This is the oil I am using Valvoline, VR1 Racing, Mineral, 40W.  This is my first season with the boat and I am at about 50hrs.

I am going to bring the boat in tomorrow to get looked at and I will give an update.

Edited by riot138
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Don't know if it has anything to do with your problem, but that oil has zinc in it, and is good for older engines with flat tappet camshafts, it's not so good for engines with O2 sensors.

Edited by MadMan
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1 hour ago, MadMan said:

Don't know if it has anything to do with your problem, but that oil has zinc in it, and is good for older engines with flat tappet camshafts, it's not so good for engines with O2 sensors.

Thanks MadMan,  I read a lot of guys on here were running straight 40 VR1 for the same engine.  Do they sell this oil without zinc?  I've attached a pic of what I use.  Any recommendations for a better oil suited for my engine would be greatly appreciated. 

oil.jpg

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That is what I have used in my hammerhead for over 200 hrs, except I use sae 50. I have read you are not supposed to use it with catalytic converters, not sure what year or engine they started with that.  Have you checked the fuel pump on key up?

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7 minutes ago, wakesonthesnake said:

That is what I have used in my hammerhead for over 200 hrs, except I use sae 50. I have read you are not supposed to use it with catalytic converters, not sure what year or engine they started with that.  Have you checked the fuel pump on key up?

Thanks for the reply.  The engine I have does not have catalytic converters.  I have not checked the fuel pump on key up.  How would I check if the fuel pump is operating properly?

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When you turn the key on you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for about 2 or 3 seconds to build pressure. Make sure the engine hatch is open. That is assuming your fuel pump is on the side of the engine and not in the tank.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update. I got the boat back today.  The mechanics plan was to change out the spark plugs because I had the wrong plugs in (NGK-3623)which I still don't think they were but that was first on the list for them. I picked it up today and asked what they did to fix it and they changed the spark plugs and replaced the distributor cap and rotor.  They warrantied the labor and parts for the distributor cap and rotor since they changed this two months ago.  I asked the guy how do I go through three brand new distributor cap and rotors in one season and he replied "there was a bad batch sent out".  These "bad batch" parts cost me over 1k in parts in labor this year.  $430 this time $600 last time and $220 for my mechanic neighbor to change originally. All because I was doing preventive maintenance on a new to me boat.  Should of just left well enough alone.


 

Edited by riot138
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13 hours ago, tvano said:

Break Out Another Thousand; welcome to the club

I'm easily over 10k this season on random stuff being a new owner. I don't mind paying if I break something or need to replace an old part but it hurts a lot more when it's over a manufactures failure to quality check the parts they are shipping out.

  • Like 1
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On 9/16/2018 at 6:53 PM, riot138 said:

I'm easily over 10k this season on random stuff being a new owner. I don't mind paying if I break something or need to replace an old part but it hurts a lot more when it's over a manufactures failure to quality check the parts they are shipping out.

OUCH!!

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  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, JasonK said:

I had to replace my cap and rotor this year after 30 hours. It was an Accell brand. Maybe they had a bad batch too.

What brand cap and rotor were you using?

All Indmar OEM parts.

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