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Silkie

2007 V-Ride won’t start with a buzzing noise coming from ECM...

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Silkie

Long time listener, first time caller... 

 

We loaded up the boat with the kids on the tube Sunday afternoon and drove straight to the marina to get enough gas for the afternoon. The boat cranked and drove unimpeded the whole way there. After pumping the gas and pushing off of the pier the boat wouldn’t turn over. Now every time the key is turned to the on position a buzzing noise with an associated vibration can be heard and felt coming from the ECM.

 

I talked to Malibu directly today (incredibly nice guys that seemed eager to help). Their suggestion was check all of the 12-pin connectors for corrosion, and if found, replace the ECM. Any help is greatly appreciated...

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shawndoggy

@tvano has a no-start FAQ that he can share.

won't turn over meaning no cranking? or cranks but won't fire?

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tvano
22 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

@tvano has a no-start FAQ that he can share.

won't turn over meaning no cranking? or cranks but won't fire?

www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25158-no-start-troubleshooting-procedure/

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Silkie

Turn over meaning no cranking. The starter doesn’t spin or anything. The starter and starter solenoid are brand new with a couple of weekends of use in them. All of the starter cables are tight. 

I looked at Tvano’s guide (nice work, sir). With the key in the on position, the gauges do not come alive and there is a buzzing noise from the ECM. When I turn the key to the start position, the buzzing changes tone and frequency, but nothing else from the motor happens. 

Edited by Silkie

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shawndoggy

hmmm... if memory serves, no gauges would be consistent with a pulled kill switch lanyard, but then you'd crank but not fire.  I'm pretty sure you'd get gauges but not crank if it were the neutral lockout.  

Dumb question and I'm sure you've checked... but you are in neutral, right? (I inadvertently key off with the boat idling at least twice a season and go through the freak out of turning the key and getting nothing before remembering to put in neutral).

Dumb question number two: are you sure the buzzing noise at key up is not the fuel pump?  It should run for about five seconds at key up (but before turning to start).

Dumb question number three: have you tried swapping the fuel system relay and the starter relay?  If the starter relay is bad, your solenoid won't get power and in turn won't trigger the starter.  Of course it's possible (but not really likely) that both relays went bad at once.  Swapping the relays is usually a quick way to figure out if you have a bad one.

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obski
1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

hmmm... if memory serves, no gauges would be consistent with a pulled kill switch lanyard, but then you'd crank but not fire.  I'm pretty sure you'd get gauges but not crank if it were the neutral lockout.  

Dumb question and I'm sure you've checked... but you are in neutral, right? (I inadvertently key off with the boat idling at least twice a season and go through the freak out of turning the key and getting nothing before remembering to put in neutral).

Dumb question number two: are you sure the buzzing noise at key up is not the fuel pump?  It should run for about five seconds at key up (but before turning to start).

Dumb question number three: have you tried swapping the fuel system relay and the starter relay?  If the starter relay is bad, your solenoid won't get power and in turn won't trigger the starter.  Of course it's possible (but not really likely) that both relays went bad at once.  Swapping the relays is usually a quick way to figure out if you have a bad one.

We did dumb question number 1 just a few weeks ago.

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Silkie

Shawndoggy, I appreciate you being willing to follow me down this investigative rabbit hole... All of your “dumb questions” are certainly pertinent. I grew up in and working on an old 1982 MasterCraft S&S, so I’m pretty comfortable with all mechanical inboards. I still have a lot to learn about these electronically controlled boats and motors though.

-My boat doesn’t currently have a kill switch though I need to add one per Alabama law. 

-Yes, throttle is squarely in neutral. I spent a couple of minutes on the various jiggles, in and out of gear, etc. ideas to make sure so. 

-The buzzing wasn’t present before the start troubles. It’s way more audible than the short whirring you get from the fuel pump and has an electrical or metal on metal tone to it (almost like a relay that is cycling between open and closed very quickly) which leads to your 3rd question:

-Definitely could be a relay. Where are those two relays located?

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shawndoggy

IIRC the relays are right behind the back seat kind of above the transmission.  Near the ECM, really.

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shawndoggy

s556051_lg.jpglooks like this.

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justgary

1. Is the battery good? 

2. Are you sure? 

Start with the simple stuff.  A relay won't pull in without enough voltage and will chatter.  If the battery is good, check the voltage at the starter and the relays. 

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tvano

yank all three relays, turn key to crank and note outcome.

install one relay at a time and repeat.

if it were me i'd install ign relay then fuel then then starter relay(s) and note the outcome at each step.

should narrow the scope of the issue.

finally yes, i realize that some of this doesn't make sense but you are in search of potential short circuits, etc. so the wiring diagram may not represent your boat.

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Silkie

Thanks for the replies. You guys were spot on! I isolated the relays and found that it is the power supplied to the relay by interchanging plugs and relays. Now the pressing question is where do I trace back to now? The right most (or starboard most for the nautical types) is the one causing the buzzing (not producing enough voltage to close the relay). Anybody know which one that plug is and where to trace low voltage to?

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shawndoggy

So let's slow down a little here....

You tried switching out relays, and the same condition occurs no matter what (whichever relay is in the starter relay position will "buzz")?

If answer to above is yes, what is voltage to relay pin when key turned to start?

When you turn the key to start, does the fuel pump prime, yes or no?

As @justgary suggested, have you confirmed good battery voltage at the starter? (big battery cable runs from batteries to starter lug so easy to test).

Dumb question -- have you checked to make sure the ecm breaker (or fuse, can't remember which your boat has) doesn't need to be reset (replaced if fuse)?

I think you are mefi4 in 2007, in which case this diagram may be helpful:

7447711898_fb62fb0dd7_b.jpg

Edited by shawndoggy

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Silkie

I'm sorry to admit that I cried uncle and took the boat to the dealer today.  I misspoke earlier (lysdexia will get you everytime).  It is the left (port) -most relay.  After the boat has sat for a few mins, I can turn the key to the on position and hear the 5 secs of priming on the fuel pump.  Then when I turn the key to the start position I hear two loud clicks followed by the buzzing noise in the fuel pump relay.  I gave up after talking to "Hardy" at Indmar with him advising me to take it to a dealer since I have no way of reading the DCIM (maybe?) codes because there is not really a good way to determine if the fuel pump signal back through the relay is causing the problem or if there is a short in the wiring harness itself.  He suggested that an electronic diagnostic would be least time consuming, frustrating, and potentially cost-effective...

Edited by Silkie

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