Replaced the Medallion box, but gauges still don't work. What now?

[Hark]

The troubleshooting guide said something about grounding some wires to make certain gauges go all the way up, but that made me a little nervous so I didn't try that.

[drh]

If you're getting good voltage at all gauge connectors and switching connectors between gauges doesn't change anything I'm leaning towards the gauges being bad. 

Start with the temp gauge; it's probably the easiest. Try grounding the tan wire going to the temp sensor like the guide states - nothing to worry about here there's not a real risk of messing anything up. It's right in the center of your intake manifold by the thermostat I believe. The temp gauge should go full scale.

[Hark]

I grounded the tan wire tonight and the gauge didn't move. I also switched the connectors from the multi-gauge (since half of it works) and another gauge that doesn't work. The problem didn't follow the connector so I think I agree with you that the gauges are shot. Do you know if I can direct replace the gauges with something like Faria gauges, or do I need to buy the crazy expensive 5" Malibu/Medallion gauges? I'm not opposed to redoing the gauge panel as needed.

[drh]

You would need the Medallion gauges if you want a plug and play replacement since they're the only ones that will work with the MDC. You can direct wire analogue gauges if it's worth it to you...it's just more work but may be cheaper depending on how many gauges don't work.

[RedWakesetterVLX]

20 minutes ago, drh said:

You would need the Medallion gauges if you want a plug and play replacement since they're the only ones that will work with the MDC. You can direct wire analogue gauges if it's worth it to you...it's just more work but may be cheaper depending on how many gauges don't work.

Also the more reliable option...

[Hark]

If the direct wire option is cheaper and more reliable, it sounds like that is the way to go. Does anyone know of a write up on how to do this on my boat? Will probably just switch to a GPS speedo, and wire analog for everything else. Does anyone know of a write up to do this? Thanks again for the help.

[Eagleboy99]

You've got the 5" gauges in your SLXi, right?  The only mfg. left for those is Faria and they are custom.   If you want to build a new dash plate, 4" is relatively easy to get - VDO, Faria, etc.   A full Faria kit runs about $800 from Ron Tanis (5") but 4" pack is about $250 and some wire and connectors (Ron also sells those for pretty cheap).    Here's a write on the MC version (blasphemy, I know)...  https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=61353    I'm just going to get the full  pack of white faced 5" from Ron (already got the custom PerfectPass Cruise gauge) and be done with it.  Will write it all up with pics, but by all accounts it is simple - plug and play.

[Hark]

that thread was super helpful, thanks! I think I am just going to redo the dash panel and put in the 4" gauges. Will post pics when I get it done.

[SmoothWaterMan]

Quite a thread here, but here's another opinion.

~ I've replaced zero gauge harness's in my life so far.

~ MDC's blow the inline fuses, will go bad for various reasons (such as water influx from speedo lines), but I can't say I've ever seen one go bad from a gauge.

~ Gauges go bad.  Fact of life, just like analog ones.  The 4-in-1 gauge can and will lose just one needle, and yet the other works.  As stated in the thread, they should all self-calibrate on power on to zero themselves and show life.  If not, it's not working.

While Medallion has their issues, I would not change mine for anything analog or digital aftermarket.  Not worth time, money, aesthetics or resale.

Just my opinion.

Peter

[Eagleboy99]

1 hour ago, SmoothWaterMan said:

Quite a thread here, but here's another opinion.

~ I've replaced zero gauge harness's in my life so far.

~ MDC's blow the inline fuses, will go bad for various reasons (such as water influx from speedo lines), but I can't say I've ever seen one go bad from a gauge.

~ Gauges go bad.  Fact of life, just like analog ones.  The 4-in-1 gauge can and will lose just one needle, and yet the other works.  As stated in the thread, they should all self-calibrate on power on to zero themselves and show life.  If not, it's not working.

While Medallion has their issues, I would not change mine for anything analog or digital aftermarket.  Not worth time, money, aesthetics or resale.

Just my opinion.

Peter

I respect your opinion on the MDC, but according to Ron Tanis who helped design them, he's proven a bad gauge can destroy an MDC (likely from an incorrect failure mode  - ie. fail closed rather than fail open)

Yes, gauges fail.  But the warranty from KM sucks and you cannot find reasonably priced new ones.  Plus there are AirGuide gauges from the 70s still chugging along.  Moreover, i t is costly and difficult to get a new MDC and even then it has the same failure modes due to poor design (Really - water tubes going inside an electronic module?  Who  in the brain trust approved THAT?)

And as far as resale,  goes, it is a lot easier to sell a boat when the buyer can see the little things like oil pressure, speed and RPMs.

As far as new gauges go, you are right - who wants a GPS speedometer, rock-steady indicator needles, lifetime warranty and better aesthetics? And no water-infused controller?  

Edited October 23, 2018 by Eagleboy99

[drh]

The speedo tubes hold air, not water, under normal conditions.

[RedWakesetterVLX]

8 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

I respect your opinion on the MDC, but according to Ron Tanis who helped design them, he's proven a bad gauge can destroy an MDC (likely from an incorrect failure mode  - ie. fail closed rather than fail open)

Yes, gauges fail.  But the warranty from KM sucks and you cannot find reasonably priced new ones.  Plus there are AirGuide gauges from the 70s still chugging along.  Moreover, i t is costly and difficult to get a new MDC and even then it has the same failure modes due to poor design (Really - water tubes going inside an electronic module?  Who  in the brain trust approved THAT?)

And as far as resale,  goes, it is a lot easier to sell a boat when the buyer can see the little things like oil pressure, speed and RPMs.

As far as new gauges go, you are right - who wants a GPS speedometer, rock-steady indicator needles, lifetime warranty and better aesthetics? And no water-infused controller?  

I do agree it is easier to sell a boat with working gauges but I still think working stock gauges would be preferred by the majority of Malibu owners/enthusiasts.  With that being said the price to replace them is definitely a tough pill to swallow.

[Eagleboy99]

14 minutes ago, Cazan said:

I do agree it is easier to sell a boat with working gauges but I still think working stock gauges would be preferred by the majority of Malibu owners/enthusiasts.  With that being said the price to replace them is definitely a tough pill to swallow.

Anyone who has a clue about the POS KM OEM gauges would be happy to get a lifetime warranteed set of Faria's I figure.  The cost is as little as about $200 to as much as $800 (less if PerfectPass is not part of the swapout)  Non-working gauges a are HUGE red flag IMO.

[SmoothWaterMan]

To each his own, and the older the boat the less it matters, typically. 

Just like using non-factory seat skins. I wouldn’t, but many do.  Only matters to the owner or the buyer. 

[SmoothWaterMan]

Interesting you bring up Ron Tanis. I bought an American Skier from him in 1992.  Back when he was in that business.  But in working with Malibu boats since 1995 I’ve never seen his name come up or ran into him at any meetings.  Did he design the Medallion gauges in all the Freightliner’s too?

[MikeGrandLake]

On 8/27/2018 at 7:08 AM, drh said:

Here's the Medallion troubleshooting guide if you want to go through it.

I would try to switch the connectors from a known working gauge to a bad gauge as suggested just to be sure that's not the issue but many times if the gauges don't move at all at key on they are indeed the problem. If switching the connectors doesn't work then start measuring resistance values between pins on the 18 pin connector as directed by the troubleshooting guide.

How long would it take/how much would it cost to have a mechanic run the test in the Troubleshooting Guide under the All Instruments are Dead Section?  Mine are dead and I'm not sure I trust myself to do the test properly, even though it seems fairly simple.

[Steve B.]

Me too, in the last few days in an 02 Sunsetter.