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SJRwake

rinsing engine, hose hook up

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SJRwake

I have a 2000 Sunsetter VLX that is on a lift 99% of the time. Because the boat is on a lift over the water I am not able to run it through the bottom of the hull with a "fake-a-lake" to flush out the engine. I am running this boat in brakish water(about 85%fresh/15% salt at worst). I know that especially for v-drives you need to rinse them through to prevent the lifters and such from rusting. My question is, is there any simple way to hook up a hose directly to the internal hose near the transmission and flush out the engine that way. Any ideas on adapting a valve to the internal hose so that it can be hooked up with ease to a fresh water hose?

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minnmarker

I did it with a T just downstream from the V drive.  Hardest part was finding the right size T.  Sprinkler supply website.  Then put a short hose with garden hose threads on it on the side tap.  If you do it often you could even  use a quick disconnect.   Been going well for 3 years.

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formulaben

I'd go with a Flush Pro or DIY.  I went with a DIY since there was no plastic involved and didn't trust the original design of the Flush Pro.  This new 3-way valve is much better than the one I had to cobble together, it's more compact and less expensive.  All you need to do is buy the hose barbs at your local plumbing store and cut your raw water intake hose.  If you want, you can plumb directly to a fresh water intake flush port on the transom and then all you need to do is hook up the hose externally and turn the valve.

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Falko

I used a shut off on the main pick up and a capped T between that valve and the raw water pump. Connect a garden hose to that T and close the main valve. What's also nice about that feature, if you are in a real predicament and need to pump water from the bilge quickly, shut the valve and open the T and suck water out with the engine.

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JeffK
3 minutes ago, Falko said:

I used a shut off on the main pick up and a capped T between that valve and the raw water pump. Connect a garden hose to that T and close the main valve. What's also nice about that feature, if you are in a real predicament and need to pump water from the bilge quickly, shut the valve and open the T and suck water out with the engine.

Having been in a spot where I could have really used that ability, I'll be making that change this week.  Nice idea @Falko!

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Falko

Yeah I can't take credit for the idea. I saw it on a sail boat years ago. (mounted on the engine, not the sail...) Never needed to use that function and would prefer never to have to, but nice to know it is an option.

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formulaben

I believe it is 1-1/4" but I'll have to double check.

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twitchee2

I would DIY with some values and a T just like everyone else suggested.  Being able to suck water out of the bilge with the engine is a fantastic idea.  I have a hose on one of my reversible ballast pumps for this very reason as well. 

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SJRwake

i am a little confused when everyone talks about sucking water out of the bilge with the engine...how would that work by adding a T valve?

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formulaben

The 3-way valve routes intake from the raw water intake under the hull to the flush hose inside the bilge.  When the flush hose is not in use, the end of that hose (with a filter) is layed down into the bilge and any emergency water removal is accomplished by turning the valve handle the engine running; the bilge water becomes engine cooling water, evacuating the bilge.

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SJRwake

hmm thats interesting, so the raw water intake hose runs from the transmission block to the transum through the bilge and then into the engine block...wow so basically i just need to put that T valve into the hose coming off the transmission

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justgary

I have a PCV check valve just after the through-hull raw water inlet, so the flush water doesn't just run out the inlet. I have a tee just after that, with a garden hose inlet in one leg and the raw water output on the other. 

The garden hose inlet has a shutoff valve, and the hose goes back to the transom, where I installed a Marpac 7-0418 fitting just below the rub rail.  No draping a hose over the gunwhale to flush the engine.   The Marpac is stainless, and will last in salt water use.  

I rinse first, then flush the system with salt away.  I also installed closed cooling so I don't have salt water in the block. 

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