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dkscism

Source Unit to ACC switch

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dkscism

I’m rewiring my head unit to accomplish 2 things:

  1. I get occasional audio feedback from engine throttle and dash switches (filling MLS, turning on bilge etc.). Following @David ‘s advice here, I’m grounding my head unit to the same negative terminal as my amplifiers. 
  2. Instead of using my key switch, I’m wiring the head unit to a carling ACC rocker. This is pictured below. 

I have a few questions about this. The carling switch has 4 connections. I’m assuming it uses the wiring connections in the picture at the bottom of this post. The top 2 are for the lamp + and -. The bottom 2 are for positive power in and out. 

Do I have to wire 2 separate ground wires from the negative terminal on the battery powering my amps and head unit? (1 each for head unit and lamp -) 

Do I need to wire 3 separate power wires from the positive terminal for the lamp +, switch input, and  B+ Head unit memory ?

I’m not sure if the lamp connections on the switch could interfere with audio. It just seems like a lot of wires to run and I didn’t know if there was a simpler solution. Maybe daisy chain, or distribution block style of connections?

Would hate to imagine if I added more accessories/switches that needed connections.

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7CDB8C43-EFFD-4399-9B10-3F4A71A506DC.thumb.jpeg.5e6f3911df5858d0c7b94719d42af614.jpeg

261BDA97-CDD4-4FE7-AEFC-BA3D81F4F6AA.thumb.png.585fec5fe7a5ef2fab1423e06c80f95a.png

Edited by dkscism

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shawndoggy

one ground wire, from the common point of your amps' and head unit's ground wires.

two positive wires..... one from your source (i.e. the "hot" wire), one to your accessory that you want to turn on with the switch (likely your HU's red wire).   

The "hot" (positive) wire can be split (daisy chained) at the switch to go to pins 8 and 2 (ground is switched for the LED indicator light per your diagram).

Your HU should be wired with the Yellow wire to wherever the common source is for your amps' positive wires.  The HU red wire goes to pin 3.  I'd leave the amps' remote turn lead with the blue wire from the stereo (you could switch them with the rocker too, but you'd risk getting turn-on or turn-off thump).

 

 

 

Edited by shawndoggy

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MLA
11 minutes ago, dkscism said:

Following @David ‘s advice here, I’m grounding my head unit to the same negative terminal as my amplifiers. 

You need to finish reading his paragraph. he said there are 2 things, ^ this is one

12 minutes ago, dkscism said:

Do I have to wire 2 separate ground wires from the negative terminal on the battery powering my amps and head unit? (1 each for head unit and lamp -) 

The head and switch lamp ground have nothing in common, dont give them anything. 

 

13 minutes ago, dkscism said:

Do I need to wire 3 separate power wires from the positive terminal for the lamp +, switch input, and  B+ Head unit memory ?

The lamp's B+ comes internally. The head unit B+/MEM is the wrong circuit here. You need to source a head unit wiring diagram and see which circuit is for turning on the head

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dkscism
22 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

one ground wire, from the common point of your amps' and head unit's ground wires.

two positive wires..... one from your source (i.e. the "hot" wire), one to your accessory that you want to turn on with the switch (likely your HU's red wire).   

The "hot" (positive) wire can be split (daisy chained) at the switch to go to pins 8 and 2 (ground is switched for the LED indicator light per your diagram).

Your HU should be wired with the Yellow wire to wherever the common source is for your amps' positive wires.  The HU red wire goes to pin 3.  I'd leave the amps' remote turn lead with the blue wire from the stereo (you could switch them with the rocker too, but you'd risk getting turn-on or turn-off thump).

 

 

 

Thanks! 

The only part I’m not sure on is the ground/- on the led light switch?

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MLA

Ground it and the switch lights up when you turn it on. 

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dkscism
44 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

ground is switched for the LED indicator light per your diagram

This is what I’m referring to. 

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shawndoggy
42 minutes ago, dkscism said:

Thanks! 

The only part I’m not sure on is the ground/- on the led light switch?

Ground is ground.  The "hot" positive wire goes to  both the input and the LED positive pins.  The ground wire goes to ground.  The switch itself makes and breaks ground to turn the LED on.  so you have "always on" power to the positive side, but the switch doesn't make ground on the LED part until you turn it on.

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dkscism
26 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

Ground is ground.  The "hot" positive wire goes to  both the input and the LED positive pins.  The ground wire goes to ground.  The switch itself makes and breaks ground to turn the LED on.  so you have "always on" power to the positive side, but the switch doesn't make ground on the LED part until you turn it on.

Thanks. So I will need 2 ground wires from the battery: 1 for head unit, and 1 for the switch lamp - ?

Edited by dkscism

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shawndoggy

you really only need one wire from battery to HU, and then jump to switch from HU.

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MLA
10 minutes ago, dkscism said:

Thanks. So I will need 2 ground wires from the battery: 1 for head unit, and 1 for the switch lamp - ?

Is this not going on the helm with all the others? They are have grounds for their lamps, why spend the time and effort on running another ground dedicated to this switch lamp. The B+ input for the switch is also already under the helm.

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