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iliketoski

Thought it was water in Gas, but still not starting

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iliketoski

Been a rough summer, (batteries, fuel pump, bent prop, though I was good to go, well we thinkt we now have water in the gas, (we buy non ethanol, that will teach us?), were cruising 3000 rpm, then loss of power down to idle, but idled fine, tried to accelerate, but it would buck and sputter.  So would idle for a while and it would be fine, it would accelerate, would get full throttle no problem.  Then all of a sudden would start acting up again, same scenario.  Finally really loss power and would not idle and died after sounding like it was running on 1 cylinder, never restarted again.

I pumped all gas out, through the the fuel pickup, (so confident I got most of it out).  I changed both fuel filters, (one by tank, one on side of engine).  Put 6 gals of marine gas in (no ethanol), also added HEAT treatment in case any water left, but it will not fire up at all.  Could something be fouled?  Plugs, injectors?   I've hit the wall on my troubleshooting.

I replaced fuel pump 20 hours ago, I can hear the fuel pump pressurizing, and I have pressure (not measured) at the strator valve.  Also the inline filter is clear and I can see gas flow.

Still won't fire, turns over but not starting.

Any ideas?  (2001 Monsoon, injected).1100 hours.

 

Thx, 'ski

Edited by iliketoski

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tvano

you need air, fuel and spark to make that little girl spin.

if it were mine i'd fire a 2 second blast of ether down the open throttle body then (standing as far away as possible and protecting my face because the spark arrestor is laying on the floor) crank it.

if it barks then you likely have a fuel delivery problem.

no bark and i'd be looking for ignition issues.

i've pm'd you a wiring diagram (for an 04).  not your model year but there are going to be overwhelming similarities.

also, the no-start troubleshooting doc may hold a clue. 

 

 

 

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iliketoski

Thx Tvano,

Pulling it home from the lake today so I can continue working on in driveway, was planning on the starting fluid.  Could all 8 plugs be fouled?  Any way to test plugs.  I figured just replace them all, even though they were new this season.  I'm thinking injectors or plugs (?)

I browsed the guide quickly yesterday, will look it over in more detail today.

'ski

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JasonK

Sounds like mine when it needed a cap and rotor.

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iliketoski

I just got back to Cincy with it.  Checked for spark at the plugs, nothing.  I pulled the cap, it looks really clean (cap, rotor and wires are only on their second summer).

I didn't see any tips for  "no spark"

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tvano

i'm just a shade tree mechanic but, to me it, it kind of smells like crank position sensor, ign. control module or ignition coil.

edit: afterthought = you can meter the coil for continuity.  if it has continuity (pink to yellow as well as purple to the distributor hi-tension lead) i'd figure it's swell.  while testing it cold doesn't mean it doesn't have a high temperature issue, you don't have a high temperature coil failure at cold start.

Edited by tvano

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justgary

Short the safety lanyard switch leads together and try again.  Just because the lanyard is in place doesn't mean the switch is good. 

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UWSkier

given symptoms it's probably not the kill switch but it's super easy to check so should be first place to start.  I'm betting it's the ICM.

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iliketoski

Yea, I thought if the kill switch was faulty/not connected, the gauges wouldn't work.  Also given the puttering to from cruise to idle, Something else.

 

Sorry for ignorance, are ICMs expensive? (my search came up no results).  (and where is it located)? I'm thinking near distributor, top of engine?

Edited by iliketoski

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formulaben
21 hours ago, iliketoski said:

I just got back to Cincy with it.  Checked for spark at the plugs, nothing.  I pulled the cap, it looks really clean (cap, rotor and wires are only on their second summer).

I didn't see any tips for  "no spark"

You pulled the cap, but you need to pull the rotor too...I once helped a friend and we changed EVERYTHING.  I went back through the old parts and didn't see a rotor.  He says it looked great (from the outside) so he saved a couple bucks on the rotor.  We pulled it and the issue was a small bit of corrosion inside the rotor at the electrical contact.  Lesson learned.

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Pra4sno

This sounds more like a before coil issue like a dead ICM as mentioned.  If plugs or coil or distributor it would still try to start, but stumble.   Since there's no attempt to start it pushes me towards thinking ICM or CPS as well.  

The coil can be tested by removing the output lead (goes into the center of the distributor cap) and putting the lead about 1/8" from a good ground if there is an arc then the issue is after the coil.  If no arc, then its an issue before the coil.  

Having even brought up testing the coil or electrical system at all I just wanted to say this:   Be very cautious testing the starting system.  Output from the ignition coil has plenty of power to seriously injure or kill, and the starting battery has a lot of amperage to begin with but the coil's output is magnitudes greater.  Wear rubber bottom shoes, rubber gloves, hold the rubber wire well back from the exposed lead and don't touch anything on the boat but the insulated rubber lead of the wire.  Only do this if in a well ventilated area that has no fumes or flammable fluids near where you are checking for spark.  I've seen people just use a rubber/plastic clamp too in order to hold the lead close to a ground if they aren't a fan of holding on to it.  

 

Edited by Pra4sno

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UWSkier

You get this sorted Dave?

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iliketoski

Sorry all, thought I closed this out.  The solution was the ICM (ignition control module).  For old timers, this is what replaced the points and condenser in the Distributed cap. No-Wake in Cincy actually fixed it.  I suspected this to be the cause but I didn't know how to test.  My luck is that if I'd have bought the part (non returnable electric part), this would not have been it, so I let the dealer fix it.  Way over priced for what it is.  I still wonder if the automotive version is the same ($40 vs $150).

 

 

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henrik

Friend of mine replaced ICM earlier this year after the boat died on the lake full of friends and family.He went with the automotive variety, claims they were the same after comparing what he bought at NAPA and what was in the boat.

25 minutes ago, iliketoski said:

Sorry all, thought I closed this out.  The solution was the ICM (ignition control module).  For old timers, this is what replaced the points and condenser in the Distributed cap. No-Wake in Cincy actually fixed it.  I suspected this to be the cause but I didn't know how to test.  My luck is that if I'd have bought the part (non returnable electric part), this would not have been it, so I let the dealer fix it.  Way over priced for what it is.  I still wonder if the automotive version is the same ($40 vs $150).

 

 

 

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