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anyone use MB Quart NH-1 for in cabin?


ilovetrains

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I would strongly discourage it. Here's why. A standard 1" non-horn-loaded dome tweeter has no trouble keeping pace with a 6.5" midbass driver. In fact, a standard 1" dome could easily dominate without a horn. The only reason to add a compression horn tweeter is to step up the output level for long range projection. However, that decidedly leaves the 6.5" midbass behind in output. Some will tolerate this inequity at wake range in the face of considerable noise, where hearing music in any form is priority.  But it's not tolerable in-the-boat at close proximity, where you need a more balanced sound. The better wake speaker companies have abandoned 6.5" HLCD coaxials for the tower years ago for this reason....WAY too shrill.

     

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If more volume is the goal, I would suggest another pair or two of traditional coaxial in-boats, properly powered. More volume, without sacrificing sound quality. Or even consider larger speakers if the boat permits. 

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Go 8" coaxial with the in-boats.  Kicker makes some good marine 8" (KM8) at a reasonable price.  They will fit in the old (2000s era) LSV plastic side panels.  Just be careful (with a Dremmel) when you enlarge the hole.  Then put some watts behind them.  The Soundstream may not have "real" RMS power.

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I like the idea of 8's in the gunwhale position, I will have to google some images ot see how they fit.  I think I am stuck with 6.5's in the dash and bow area.  All the speakers int he boat simply need to be replaced.  They are all Kicker 6.5 components as of now.

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All the KM8 have LEDs, but the 6.5 comes in 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 4 ohm LED. Also note that those through amazon are likely retired numbers. New models have improved LEDs. 

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On 7/24/2018 at 8:42 AM, minnmarker said:

Go 8" coaxial with the in-boats.  Kicker makes some good marine 8" (KM8) at a reasonable price.  They will fit in the old (2000s era) LSV plastic side panels.  Just be careful (with a Dremmel) when you enlarge the hole.  Then put some watts behind them.  The Soundstream may not have "real" RMS power.

Depends on what era the soundstream amp is. If it's an older, made in America (folsom, Ca.) reference 405 or 705, those are great amps.  If it's a newer Chinese version, I'd agree. I used to work for the subwoofer factory for soundstream back in the day. It was good stuff when it was made here. I still have a reference 405 and a custom SPL160 prototype sitting on my shelf for nostalgia. 

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On 7/24/2018 at 6:37 PM, ilovetrains said:

I like the idea of 8's in the gunwhale position, I will have to google some images ot see how they fit.  I think I am stuck with 6.5's in the dash and bow area.  All the speakers int he boat simply need to be replaced.  They are all Kicker 6.5 components as of now.

The KM8 needs a mounting hole 6-11/16 inches in diameter and 3-1/4 inches deep.  From the manual.

The dash hole my be too shallow for better modern speakers but it's easy to put an extender ring on.

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Although that 8" can handle 200W rms, even without a jump in amp wattage, you still gain the output and mid-bass extension when going from 6.5" to an 8" speaker. 

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On 7/26/2018 at 12:36 PM, MLA said:

Although that 8" can handle 200W rms, even without a jump in amp wattage, you still gain the output and mid-bass extension when going from 6.5" to an 8" speaker. 

However it is a coax 8...my gut tells me a component 6.5 is still going to sound better than a coax 8.  I like the price of the KM 8, but worry about mixing them with some polk momo components I will have in other cabin positions.

On 7/26/2018 at 12:17 PM, minnmarker said:

The KM8 needs a mounting hole 6-11/16 inches in diameter and 3-1/4 inches deep.  From the manual.

The dash hole my be too shallow for better modern speakers but it's easy to put an extender ring on.

depth for the dash opening should not be an issue, they currently have component 6.5s that are fairly deep and room for the crossover.  I am more concerned about how to open up the holes.  When I read one build thred it had a line about removing the windshield.  I have not undertaken something so ambitious, and it sounds like more than a few hour project I am thinking about.   

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2 minutes ago, ilovetrains said:

my gut tells me a component 6.5 is still going to sound better than a coax 8.

If this was the case, it would due to a difference in the cross-over or tweeter, and not because one tweeter is remote and the other is suspended above the cone. 

5 minutes ago, ilovetrains said:

thread it had a line about removing the windshield.  I have not undertaken something so ambitious

Its an easy job with 2 people. Much easier then trying to do anything with the speaker, with the windshield still in place. 

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