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Power Wedge II Position Sensor Swap


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Earlier this week I was on the water and had issues with the Power Wedge. Wedge was stowed but I kept getting "Wedge in drag mode" warning as system indicated Wedge was in "ramp" position. Position indication was erratic. Eventually the indication was acting normally and I was able to move the wedge as desired. All worked normally but then just before I pulled the boat I got a "Check wedge calibration" message.

I have a 2015 23 LSV. The 2015 does not have a wedge calibration option. Just the "debug" screen.

I inspected the wedge assembly and found the wire bundle from the position sensor has been damaged. The sheathing is cut and I can see the internal wires exposed (with conductor showing but not cut). I suspect this is the cause for the erratic sensor data.

I ordered a new position sensor from the dealer and I'm waiting for the delivery. 

Here's the question: After I swap the sensor out. Should it just plug and play? Will I need to do some type of secret calibration? If after I install the sensor and the debug screen values don't match factory setting- UP 200 - 3.25, Down 0.51 - 0.53 should I change via the debug screen to set the factory value? 

Anything else I should know about the swap? 

Thanks in advance.

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Update: Im still waiting on the new position sensor. However, I was thinking if water was shorting the voltage from the sensor, maybe now that its dry I could test it and possibly seal the tear in the line with 3M 4000 until the new sensor arrives. I powered up the boat (on the trailer) and just like last time the wedge indicates "lift" position commanded and indicated with the wedge clearly stowed. I wiggled the power line to the sensor expecting the indication to move around. No movement at all. I never tried to select a different wedge position but surely a indication of "lift" when stowed is not normal. I then removed the screws securing the sensor and rotated the sensor in my hard as if the wedge was in motion. Still no indication change.

Two questions bug me:

1) If it was simply a sensor position error why is it showing the commanded position as Lift? I would expect if it was a position sensor error alone it would show a position of lift but commanded as Stowed and unable to stow due to no motion of the boat. 

2) How exactly does the position sensor work? If it was simply a reference to level using up and down = degrees from level (like using a straight level for carpentry) that wouldn't work. Every time the boat started out of the hole and the bow came up the sensor would see that as a wedge position change. The position sensor must be using the hull as a reference and measuring angular difference from that reference. Any idea how it does this?

Does this still sound like a simple position sensor problem or something more complicated? I'm contemplating just making the 2 hr drive to the Dealer and dropping it off and waiting for the 2 1/2 week backlog to clear in service.

Thanks in advance..

Edited by MWJ68
additional question
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There is a bolt under the sensor with a small magnet in it.  I worked on a boat that had a loose bolt under the sensor that would spin and cause the sensor voltage to change randomly as the wedge was deployed and stowed.  It was very frustrating to get the sensor adjustment right, until I adjusted and tightened the bolt first.

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  • 1 year later...

The same issue happened to me. I wound up cutting the sensor wires and spliced in some new wire.  

How much was a new sensor?  Did you install it?  I'm not sure how to get the wire through the hull.  The "clam" bolt that the wire goes through seems impossible to access from the inside of the boat.  Also, the reason my wires were torn was because the ring that holds actuator bolt in place broke off.  I replaced with a cotter pin.  Make sure you do that or you'll be back where you started.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I purchased a new sensor (around $150 I think) from Malibu. I installed it myself. It was pretty easy. You'll need a special tool to disconnect the wires from the plug that connects to the main wiring harness. It was easy to find on-line and cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-Terminal-Tool/dp/B0009OR906/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=auto+connector+pin+removal+tool&qid=1569068707&sr=8-38

Once you have the connector removed threat the wires one by one through the hole in the hull. I then opened up the hole with a drill bit by hand to make it easier to thread through the new wires one by one. Remove the old sensor assembly and install the new.  You will then need to calibrate the tilt sensor. Open the calibrate screen and adjust the sensor by hand until the value is appropriate. 

Power Wedge II Calibration:

UP 200 - 3.25

Down 0.51- 0.53

Seal the hole with a marine grade sealant.

 

Cheers!

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A few other notes: The "clam" bolt unscrews from the outside on my boat. I unscrewed the "bolt" head from outside. Then after disconnecting the connector plug I pulled the wires through the hole one at a time. There was no need on my boat to mess with the "clam" bolt internal piece from inside the boat. 

I'n not sure what you mean about using a cotter pin instead of a bolt to hold the bracket in place. Mine was not broken, missing or damaged. I did make a small adjustment to the angle and the amount of slack in the wire so It couldn't bind or get pulled when the wedge moves. I also don't move the wedge from stowed to deployed when I'm under way. I only stow it when at idle and going just fast enough to unlock the wedge. I do this just to decrease the likelihood of the water flow moving the wire to a position that it could bind somehow.

The newer model years have the wedge sensor mounted on the outside of the wedge and the wire is completely away from the wedge arms specifically due to this problem. 

Edited by MWJ68
spelling error
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