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grich8888

Wedge Failure

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grich8888

I have a 2013 Malibu 24 MXZ with the wedge stuck in between the top and bottom positions.  I tried searching this and have answered some of my questions but I am still trying to figure this out. 

 I am receiving an error stating, 'Wedge fault wait 10 seconds for reset, port actuator maxed current draw failure.'  I removed the port side actuator and confirmed it is full of rusty water and needs to be replaced.   I keep reading about a 20 amp fuse that blows if this happens and that would allow me to manually (i'm assuming via the one good actuator) move the wedge back to the up position.  The fuses under the steering wheel are fine, both the wedge up and wedge down 5 amp fuses.  However, when I bypass these to allow for manual movement It does not move it either up or down using the respective jumper position with the fuses.   I see the Lenco box near the back of the boat at the transom but do not see a fuse here nor under the steering column.  Can someone direct me as to where this 20amp fuse is that would allow me to manually move my wedge, using the 5 amp fuses or help me figure out what else I can do?   Once the new Actuator is installed is there a need to calibrate it?

I would like to get the wedge up so we can use the boat tomorrow while I order a new actuator.  

 

Thanks!

Greg

Edited by grich8888

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Ccceric

Had this same problem a couple of weeks ago.  The 20 amp fuse is up behind the radio just port of the steering wheel. It is in a red rubber case and does take a 20 amp fuse.  I had to go back through all of the fuses after changing the 20 amp, but now all is well.  Hope this helps

 

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grich8888
21 hours ago, Ccceric said:

Had this same problem a couple of weeks ago.  The 20 amp fuse is up behind the radio just port of the steering wheel. It is in a red rubber case and does take a 20 amp fuse.  I had to go back through all of the fuses after changing the 20 amp, but now all is well.  Hope this helps

 

I am having no luck finding this in my 2013 Wakesetter MXZ 24.  I scoured underneath the steering column and found one fuse in a red rubber case that I had previously found that is 5 amps and runs the on/off switch, but nothing that is a 20 amp nor anything that runs the wedge.  I also removed my sub and looked at the wires that run behind the steering column in that cubby.  Any other help finding this fuse or help with it would be great.  

I did notice a weird inline wire that was soldered that could have a fuse in the middle soldered (honestly can't tell if its a fuse as it doesn't look like anything i have seen before), it is in a clear shrink wrap.  It doesn't look broken and I am not sure what it runs.  In the middle of the wire that is in the clear shrink wrap, there is something that has numbers or letters written on it.  

Just as a note to be through, while trying to manually move the wedge ( using the fuse in the bypass position), I had someone rolling the wheel under the boat to make it show we were moving while the boat was powered on, motor not running.  I could see the speedo showing 2-5mph and also tried moving the wedge with this method using the touch screen and fuse in the original location.  Neither of these maneuvers moved the wedge either up or down.  I also tried to unplug one actuator at a time to see if I could get it to move, with no luck.

 

Thanks,

Greg

 

Edited by grich8888

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grich8888

Spent many hours pulling apart the actuators today and again trying to find something that will make this work.  I have ordered two new Actuators but figured I could get it working while I wait for the new ones.  I ran the actuators using a battery and both work fine.  

In a continued effort to troubleshoot this I placed the good actuator on the port side (my error side).   I continue to get the same error with no movement of either one or both actuators in any configuration but the error is always, Wedge fault wait 10 seconds for reset, port actuator maxed current draw failure,' showing PORT side no matter what.  I have enabled, disabled the wedge, reset the settings to default etc.  Still not getting this to work.  I have an appointment at the dealership but they are slow (can't get me in for 4 weeks), not very good, and very overpriced.  It might be my only option at this point now.  Any additional ideas anyone might have for me would be appreciated.  I still have not been successful in finding a 20 amp or any fuse that supplies power to the wedge and this still seems like a good solution, but I can't find anything.  

 

Thanks

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Ccceric

Shoot me your number and I’ll send you a pick of my fuse. 

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grich8888

Sent you a personal message

Thanks

 

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Padge

I’ve gotten the same message. Found my 20amp fuse blown. Replaced and the same thing happened again. Wedge worked fine last summer. Never had a hiccup with it. Do I need to replace both actuators?

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saxton15

It is recommended to replace both at the same time.  In any case, if you replace one, you need to make sure they are level and equally extended with each other during the install.  Otherwise, the rams will "fight" each other and cause the system to fault.  

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grich8888

Last update and some comments, so that It might help people in the future.  Also note my boat is a 2013 wakesetter 24 mxz.

12 hours ago, Padge said:

I’ve gotten the same message. Found my 20amp fuse blown. Replaced and the same thing happened again. Wedge worked fine last summer. Never had a hiccup with it. Do I need to replace both actuators?

I removed my actuators and one was full of rusty water.  They are easy to pull off.  You don't need to remove the wires, just unscrew the star at the end of the actuator and unplug the wires.  Of note, the red dot on the motor of the actuator goes to the black wire.  I have ordered two new actuators because I don't want to deal with this again while I am in the water.  However, I believe you can, and I did, drain the water, dry it out, put in some marine grease around the gears, test it using a 12 v car battery, and put it back together with some marine glue/sealant.  I used a Loctite marine sealant that I purchased at Home Depot.  The water intrusion appeared to be around the o-rings from the o-rings nuts that hold the actuator together.  I pulled the actuators apart and there are 4 o-rings that probably should be replaced and it would work fine.  Because I was buying new I decided to have these as an extra pair and used the sealant, but I would use both sealant and new O-rings if I were going to be relying on it.   After re-greasing the gears, I put sealant around the bottom and pushed it back together, which is a little hard to do and get the gears lined up, then put sealant onto the end cap and sealant around each of the openings around the screws/nuts at the end.  I believe this would allow these to work without buying new, 

My dealer wanted $369 plus tax for each actuator.  I found them here for $200 each and next day shipped them for a total of $440 for 2.

https://anchorexpress.com/lenco-102xd-extreme-duty-actuator-15060-001

 

Lastly, I found the elusive fuse that controls the Lenco controller.  This is hidden behind the subwoofer and was hard for me to see because of the heater hoses.  Really a dumb place to have a fuse and you have you pull your boat apart to get to it.  I found it easiest to access this fuse through the storage cubby in the front of the boat that we use to put our towels.  This comes out with 4 screws after removing the arm that holds up the backrest.  Once this cubby is removed you have a wide open view to see the Lenco control box and the 20 amp fuse that is next to it.  

 

Thanks to Ccceric for sending me pics of his 2011 that showed the Lenco box and motivated me to follow my wires from front to back and find the fuse, although his box is under the dash and not hidden in the cubby. 

 

 

 

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BSUBU_Kris

The motors in the actuators are not that hard to replace if you want.  I ordered the motors with the O-Rings.  Here is what I did:

 

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