Bent rudder replacement

[Canusa]

Malibu crew, need your help here. I had a close encounter with rock a lake Powell this past weekend. Results: bent/mangled prop, possible bent drive shaft, bent rudder, fiberglass damage. The prop is a no brained. The rudder has me concerned with the fact that it is bent and I need help or tips on replacing the bent rudder. Also how do I determine I’d the drive shaft is bent or not? Look for wisdom....

[wdr]

Have some one turn the wheel and you will visibly see the run out on the rudder if it is bent. The top of the rudder should have the same gap distance between it and the bottom of the hull in any location. Even at rest you could see mine was bent. For the shaft you can do a home made run out test with a piece of wire taped to the hull. Tape a coiled piece of wire with a long arm to the hull with the long arm near or against the shaft in various locations to check the gap between the wire and shaft and for movement. Best bet is to have it professionally checked while you have it out. @$450.00 for a new one. You have a couple options from where to get all of the parts. Marine Hardware (manufacturer), Bakes, Skidim.com or from Malibu$$$. Surprisingly MH was the most expensive for the rudder for me @ $800.00 at the time. It would of have been cheaper for an ‘09 than my ‘10, but the ‘10s were the year they started using the 30lb tiller arm to reduce rudder flutter. I didnt need the tiller arm and I doubt you will either, but I could only order the whole assembly so I had to eat the cost. I used Bakes at the time. You can pull the rudder off/out of the boat with out pulling it off of the trailer if you remove the tiller arm and the 4 rudder housing bolts and rotate the whole assembly out. Getting the rudder housing to come out of the hull is going to be a religious experience due to the sealant used. Against my better judgement I had to use a putty knife to break the seal between the hull and the outer housing mating surface. 

Edited July 4, 2018 by wdr