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'94 Malibu Response Resto- The good, The bad, and The Ugly


Fabricator909

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@Fabricator909:  You got a hell of a boat for $3,500, you will enjoy the heck out of it when you christen it after the rehab.  Just a suggestion, ski and barefoot behind it, its awesome for that.

The floor dip is very typical and not limited to just that model year.  I am sure you are well aware, but your fuel tank and restraining 'straps' are not original.  That same year Echelon used 2 plastic vertical (looks like a .25" thick vertical pie wedge) stops to keep the fuel tank in place.  The tank in mine was a Moeller brand and translucent (they do yellow with age) in color, if you search this site there are a few pictures @Michigan boarder has posted that show his tank when he did his engine upgrade.  I don't see any blower hose although I am not certain on how that boat routed it, make sure you have the blower and exhaust routed to exit at the transom, and have the inlet down low preferably near the starter.

Nice work on the trailer, looks great, I could find lots of projects to abuse your fabrication skills.

PS - many of us appreciate the dirty fingers...no apology needed.

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Looks like a fun project!!  Mine was similar, while you are at it you should replace the fuel and vent lines, 24 years old and likely not ethanol rated.  Plus for me it was nice to scrub everything behind the tank and know that there was at least a "reset" for the dirt accumulation.

I would also take this opportunity to do something more creative with the interior, to match the newer boat upholstery styles.  Like, add some vertical ribbing on portions of the seat backs and upper sides of the engine cover, two tones on the seat bases, etc. (if it's not too late).

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59 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@Fabricator909:  You got a hell of a boat for $3,500, you will enjoy the heck out of it when you christen it after the rehab.  Just a suggestion, ski and barefoot behind it, its awesome for that.

The floor dip is very typical and not limited to just that model year.  I am sure you are well aware, but your fuel tank and restraining 'straps' are not original.  That same year Echelon used 2 plastic vertical (looks like a .25" thick vertical pie wedge) stops to keep the fuel tank in place.  The tank in mine was a Moeller brand and translucent (they do yellow with age) in color, if you search this site there are a few pictures @Michigan boarder has posted that show his tank when he did his engine upgrade.  I don't see any blower hose although I am not certain on how that boat routed it, make sure you have the blower and exhaust routed to exit at the transom, and have the inlet down low preferably near the starter.

Nice work on the trailer, looks great, I could find lots of projects to abuse your fabrication skills.

PS - many of us appreciate the dirty fingers...no apology needed.

Interesting on the fuel tank, the straps obviously aren't original, however the fuel tank fits perfectly and is even angled for the seat back, it is also aluminum with some type of sound deadening material. After speaking with Malibu about the VIN, this was an promo boat that was used in Tournaments in Naples, FL. Given that, I wonder if the gas tank was fabbed out of Aluminum to get it out the door and on tour.  The blower hoses are there,on top of the tank. I plan on pulling the tank out sometime this week, and get a good look at everything.

Thanks for the compliment on the trailer, it would look better painted, however the piece of mind on the galvanizing is nice to have.

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1 hour ago, Woodski said:

  I don't see any blower hose although I am not certain on how that boat routed it, make sure you have the blower and exhaust routed to exit at the transom, and have the inlet down low preferably near the starter.

Nice work on the trailer, looks great, I could find lots of projects to abuse your fabrication skills.

PS - many of us appreciate the dirty fingers...no apology needed.

+1 on all of that - your blower is really important to prevent an explosion.  I'm going with the "first boat" statement that you made, you have to look at this engine compartment differently because it is contained and fumes can easily build up.  Running the blower prior to start up and having one that turns on with the key is important.

Another nice thing on the trailer to add are rollers on the underside of the prop guard cage.  I have scraped my older single axle trailer sooooo many times on a steep ramp in and out of a gas station, it's an awful sound to hear.

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While you're back by the tank and all, there should be a zirk fitting on your rudder, hit it with two squeezes of grease.  That's usually all it takes, more than that can pop out the seals.

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9 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

Looks like a fun project!!  Mine was similar, while you are at it you should replace the fuel and vent lines, 24 years old and likely not ethanol rated.  Plus for me it was nice to scrub everything behind the tank and know that there was at least a "reset" for the dirt accumulation.

I would also take this opportunity to do something more creative with the interior, to match the newer boat upholstery styles.  Like, add some vertical ribbing on portions of the seat backs and upper sides of the engine cover, two tones on the seat bases, etc. (if it's not too late).

I am going to pull the fuel tank this week and look at the lines, thought the fuel line does look like it has been replaced at some point. I also ordered new tinned battery cable and speaker wire from Genuinedealz, they are probably original, and plus the sound system is getting upgraded along with an add a battery. For the interior, the colors are obviously getting changed. Welting is getting added where there was none previously, and the color scheme will be white/black welting/ orange/silver welting/ black. I am also getting rid of the carpet under the helm on the sides, and having him put black vinyl, i am thinking it will be easier to clean than carpet. My biggest cross road is the flooring, I am leaning towards the olefin carpet with a rubber backing that can be pulled out.

dspEf1Y.jpg

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Lastly, again while it's all out, check the fasteners on anything going thru the transom (grab bar, transom eyes, etc.).  Mine had loosened up to barely finger tight.  But don't over tighten and crack the gel coat, make sure they are snug though.

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46 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

Lastly, again while it's all out, check the fasteners on anything going thru the transom (grab bar, transom eyes, etc.).  Mine had loosened up to barely finger tight.  But don't over tighten and crack the gel coat, make sure they are snug though.

2 words, Nyloc nuts. If it was in a crazy hard spot to get to, I replaced every fastener I could with them so I wouldn't have to tear it apart again when something came loose.

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25 minutes ago, wdr said:

2 words, Nyloc nuts. If it was in a crazy hard spot to get to, I replaced every fastener I could with them so I wouldn't have to tear it apart again when something came loose.

...and I make sure every fastener I put in (screw, nut, washer) is stainless.

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Finally had some more time to work on the boat last night. Got the gas tank pulled, and looked at the blower and routing, new hoses are in order for sure for the fuel tank and blower. It also looks like the blower only connects on one side of the engine bay, then blows out the transom? The other hose looks like it connects on the other side and just goes through the transom, which seems kind of pointless, unless it has some kind of draft effect on it.  Also, might be a stupid question since I'm used to working on PWC;s, but should the vent hose have some type of check valve on it, so air only gets in, and no gas can get out?

The gas tank was custom made, at least it was made by marine tank manufacturer.

ujGaHLu.jpg

Blower hoses

czmFYdN.jpgnew

Looks like new exhaust hoses too while everything is out. Also going to take some  foam and fill up the transom tie down cavity's for a removable filler, they were filled with water, and keystone light cans lol.

2TNs4NL.jpg

Got the windshield off, going to send it out to anodize or powder coat. Anybody know where to get the foam that hides the mounting screws on the exterior of the windshield?

rSgOqrc.jpg

Finally, I ordered a sheet of wide groove Hydroturf with 3m adhesive to make some trailer step pads, and to make a decision on flooring....

IXTBdEA.jpg

  • Like 3
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Any boat I have ever had, had just 1 blower connected to a bunch of crappy dryer hose that sucked air out of the bilge from one side. Normally the blower has been mounted on the port side and I have never seen or heard of a any sort of check valve for one, but they may exist. Should you need a replacement tank, Moeller is the big tank manufacturer for fuel and ballast on my LSV. 

Edited by wdr
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1 hour ago, wdr said:

Any boat I have ever had, had just 1 blower connected to a bunch of crappy dryer hose that sucked air out of the bilge from one side. Normally the blower has been mounted on the port side and I have never seen or heard of a any sort of check valve for one, but they may exist. Should you need a replacement tank, Moeller is the big tank manufacturer for fuel and ballast on my LSV. 

The tank is good, just not original. I don't see a need to replace it tho.i should've clarified,  I was asking about a check valve for the fuel vent hose, seems odd not to have one.

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4 minutes ago, Fabricator909 said:

The tank is good, just not original. I don't see a need to replace it tho.i should've clarified,  I was asking about a check valve for the fuel vent hose, seems odd not to have one.

No check valves but I believe folks do add them.

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9 hours ago, UWSkier said:

No check valves but I believe folks do add them.

The valve I put in was the Racor L50 IIRC. There is a how to on here somewhere.

B2D063F5-1267-4A08-8441-89CC35BFDBD5.jpeg

Edited by wdr
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On the blower (this his how my boat is routed):

Starboard side - hose starts at the transom, then goes down and lays along side the exhaust tube and goes to the blower which is mounted on the back of the engine.  This is the "output" end of the blower.  From the blower, the input end, a hose drapes over the back of the engine and goes down towards the bottom of the bilge.  Mine hangs about 2 inches from the bottom.  This is where it will pick up the gas fumes that you want to get rid of.

Port side - hose starts at the transom, then goes down and lays along side the exhaust tube and ends just inside the engine bay.  This allows fresh air to be pulled in and/or pushed out.

2016_engine_pic_2.jpg

Bilge vent old engine 4.jpg

Bilge vent old engine 5.jpg

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What size is your exhaust hose?  The runs pictured above were removed, they are 3".  I replaced all of my exhaust (New ETX manifolds, STE's, modified silencer, etc.) with 3.5" and I think I have the 3" laying around somewhere, your's for free if you want it (pay shipping).

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6 hours ago, Michigan boarder said:

What size is your exhaust hose?  The runs pictured above were removed, they are 3".  I replaced all of my exhaust (New ETX manifolds, STE's, modified silencer, etc.) with 3.5" and I think I have the 3" laying around somewhere, your's for free if you want it (pay shipping).

The 2 pieces that connect from the transom to the fiberglass tube are 3", while the fiberglass tube is 3.5" with a reducer at the end, so it  sounds likes I'm in luck! I have to note how weird it is to see the echelon constructed differently in so many ways, yours has a shaft log, mine has the HDS box,blower routing etc.

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@Fabricator909:  The HDS system came in to play post '94 I believe, what year is your response, the HIN # will tell you.  As for the fuel tank, notice the big aluminum square fitting on @Michigan boarder's fuel tank, that actually has an anti siphon valve in it, so yes, there is some sort of anti spill valve either via a looped vent hose or check valve in the system (sometimes both).

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/5/2018 at 10:18 PM, Woodski said:

@Fabricator909:  The HDS system came in to play post '94 I believe, what year is your response, the HIN # will tell you.  As for the fuel tank, notice the big aluminum square fitting on @Michigan boarder's fuel tank, that actually has an anti siphon valve in it, so yes, there is some sort of anti spill valve either via a looped vent hose or check valve in the system (sometimes both).

My HIN  number says my boat was made in March of 94.

Finally started making some headroom. Have the windshield at tint, the windshield frame at powder coat.

Got the Dayside 16oz marine carpet from home depot for the gunwales. This carpet is higher quality than the stuff at Lowes, which you can see the rubber backing when you bend it.

1bMvb9r.jpg

This is the Home Depot carpet. You can see the backing and face.

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This is the Lowes carpet, it gets stringy, and leaves shards everywhere, I did use it on my bunks however, has it seems to have a decent pile for that use.

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Order new netting for the upholstery as well, this was a pain to find. The good thing is, it is all bungee material, vs. just having a bungee going through the netting at the top. Got it from Organized Obie.

vSoRs3f.jpg

Also got the Joystick wakeboard signature tower in, this thing looks good, plus it is American made.

 

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15 hours ago, footndale said:

The boat should have duct tubes coming from the front vents and to the bilge too.

Correct, the front vents connect to the bilge  through the same plenum that the blower motor pulls out the fumes. Looks like Malibu found a craft way to to use the hollow stringers as large blower/ ventilation ducts.

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