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07malibu

Batteries drain quickly

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07malibu

I have 07' Vride I purchased last July. Previous owner had new subwoofer and amplifier installed. Stereo sounded like crap. I took it into local stereo shop. They said amplifier cables were not connected correctly rewired to battery. Stereo sounded perfect after that.

Although I then started having trouble with the boat starting after being on the water, both batteries (brand new) would be completely drained after checking them when towed in. I took to a Master Craft dealer (No Malibu dealer with 200 miles) paid $600 and said everything should be good to go. (Said they tighten up some wires, but didn't find anything major, alternator was good too).

Next trip to the lake boat starts up every time, except we stopped shut boat off listened to radio (5 songs in) drifted, so we tried to started it to move further away from shallow waters and boat doesn't start again.

Not sure if something was missed, or if this is a stereo drainage/wiring issue..or something entirely different. I'm discouraged at this point.

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MLA

Does this boat have a dual bank system with a manual battery switch? if so, what type, as in what selections does it have? 

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07malibu

MLA

It has 2 batteries directed by manual  4 point Perko switch. Off, 1,2,1+2

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MLA

Ok two things come to mind. 1) are the amps and any other non-essential loads wired direct to either of the batteries. 2) when you stop engine, you need to be on 1 or 2, not BOTH. 

Beyond that, we can always suspect a bad battery (yes, new does not mean a battery is now toast) or a charging issue. The alternator might be good, but a bad cable or connection can reduce its input to the batteries. 

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07malibu

Ok great I'll start with those two items. Is there a diagram or something I can use to determine if the amps and other essential loads are wired.

Also when  I start the boat, and cruising around where should the switch be. I generally use 1+2 to start then switch to a single battery while cruising. Then switch to opposite single battery when sitting and listening to the radio.

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oldjeep

Edit - wrong thought

Edited by oldjeep

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MLA
2 hours ago, 07malibu said:

Is there a diagram or something I can use to determine if the amps and other essential loads are wired.

Honestly, the easy way is to fallow the cable(s) from the amp(s) all the way to where it connects to the battery or switch. A volt meter can also be used. If the switch is off, test for voltage at the amps. If theres voltage, well, you know its wired direct to a battery. EVERYTHING, minus the auto-bilge, is best wired to the common output of the switch. Switch off = no draws when boat is put away. Switch on 1, loads draw from 1, alternator puts into 1. Switch on 2, dito. 

If you are anchoring on 1 or 2 and not BOTH and neither battery will re-fire the boat, you have a battery issue or draws coming off both batteries.  

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07malibu

The switch appears to have the alternator and accessories connected at the common. And a cable directly from each of The other 2 on switch to the battery.. (of these two bilge is connected to switch 1) nothing else is connected to switch.

The battery 1 has a single cable that runs to an 80 Amp fuse then continues to connect at switch labeled 1.

Batter 2 has 2 cables. One runs directly to switch 2 and other directly to 2 amplifiers.

Does this sound correct?

Tried to submit picture but couldn't figure it out.

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Norsman
On 6/29/2018 at 11:45 AM, 07malibu said:

Ok great I'll start with those two items. Is there a diagram or something I can use to determine if the amps and other essential loads are wired.

Also when  I start the boat, and cruising around where should the switch be. I generally use 1+2 to start then switch to a single battery while cruising. Then switch to opposite single battery when sitting and listening to the radio.

Not hijacking, but I have the same question regarding the switch. When do you use 1 or 2 or both? Which battery is actually #1 and #2 under the seat? I stopped and was running the radio on 1+2 for about 15 minutes and voltage went near 12 after about 15 minutes. How long can you run the stereo on a two battery system (stock batteries)?

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MLA

 @Norsman There is no one size fits all answer, as it comes down to the type of both batteries and how they are used. When in the BOTH or 1+2, depending on switch nomenclature, just note that both battery banks are in play. The alternator is charging both banks when engine is running and both banks are being drawn from. 

If on BOTH and voltage showed 12 after only 15 minutes: 1) was this an analog or digital gauge? Analog gauges can be hard to read those all important tenths of a volt. 12V is 75% depleted and 12.8 is fully charged. That .8 makes a significant difference. If it was a digital gauge and it read 12.0V, id want to verify this with a hand held meter right at the battery(s). Could be a bad batteries, weak alternator, poor connection anywhere, included the gauge, resulting in a false low reading. Even with a substantial audio system, 15 minutes should not run down two good batteries. 

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