2012 Malibu 247 LSV-Adding Ballast

[Chad23lsv]

I have all stock ballest filled, 750s in the lockers, 400 fly high in the front on the seats wedge 1-2 clicks up and a mission delta. Depending on amount of people I throw a 400 in the back on the floor. Bow weight will lengthen the wave a lot. More of a sweet spot. I had great luck with a CWB katana board, easy to ride. I now have a gnarwhal slingshot and I can go all around the lake no rope. It changed my surfing adventure right away. So the board makes a huge difference 

[black06VLX]

On ‎7‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 9:05 AM, kerpluxal said:

I have to concur with @TimbrSS... While I have the 23 LSV, I have GosSurfAssist as well, factory ballast, 1100s piggy backed in rear, 400s under coffin seats, and redid front with 1000 triangle hidden ballast. 

DO NOT USE WakeMakers plug and play... It is all wrong in design and will cause air lock in bottom tanks (bottom tanks will not fill full until all the air burbs out and takes hours)...

WakeMakers has all the parts you need to create your own plug n play

I upgraded my fill pumps in rear to 1100 gph pumps, If you use the Piranha pumps, their intakes a .75 and no modification is needed to thru hull.

From my fill pump it goes to a check valve then to a wye fitting... wye splits to hard tank and bag. Vent from hard tank goes to bag.. bag vents to thru hull... It is imperative that you fill your hard tank first if it is piggy back system.

Enjoy your new boat!!!!

So the wakemakers setup is not good?

I have a 2006 wakesetter VLX and was going to set my rear ballast up with new 1100gph pumps and 1" line. I have done this already on my mid tank and its a nice improvement in fill time.

Anyways I was going to run 1" line to an anti siphon loop, 1" line to a y fitting(1 line going to the hard tank and another with a valve to control flow to the ballast bag.)

I was going to tie both vents together with a y fitting again and check valves so nothing back feeds and upsize to a 1" thru hull with 1" hose. Do the same for the drain line and run a dedicated aerator pump to empty the ballast bag(tie wiring together so I just have the factory switches in use)

Not sure if that is a dumb setup or not. I just don't want to waste money on the wakemakers setup if its not performing properly. Any advice you can share would be great. Looking to remove the rear over the boat pumps.

[kerpluxal]

7 minutes ago, black06VLX said:

So the wakemakers setup is not good?

I have a 2006 wakesetter VLX and was going to set my rear ballast up with new 1100gph pumps and 1" line. I have done this already on my mid tank and its a nice improvement in fill time.

Anyways I was going to run 1" line to an anti siphon loop, 1" line to a y fitting(1 line going to the hard tank and another with a valve to control flow to the ballast bag.)

I was going to tie both vents together with a y fitting again and check valves so nothing back feeds and upsize to a 1" thru hull with 1" hose. Do the same for the drain line and run a dedicated aerator pump to empty the ballast bag(tie wiring together so I just have the factory switches in use)

Not sure if that is a dumb setup or not. I just don't want to waste money on the wakemakers setup if its not performing properly. Any advice you can share would be great. Looking to remove the rear over the boat pumps.

Not sure if the new piggy back has been updated. But the one I received did not fill nor drain correctly.. all my drains and vents are currently .75 . I did not put a valve on the hard tank to bag as I am almost always filling bag as well as the tank. I plan on adding a pump to the drain of the bag at a later date. there is a forum on here where this was discussed. Plan on a timer to start the drain of the bag 1st then kick on the hard tank 2nd with a time delay between them. you will also need to update the fuse size on the switch. 

Not sure on your vent as that is different than mine... :

From intake pump to check valve to  y.. y to tank and bag. This y is placed so that it fills tank first first then bag. 

From tank vent to bag (so all water is sent to bag and not over boat while filling (both lines run to the bottom bag and the bag vents out of boat through a check valve). I plan on removing the vent and using a kinetic valve for venting.. Currently the bag will drain out when pulling riders (not completely but enough  ) and this will prevent that. However, it does require extra care that you don't overfill the bag.

 

The only feedback that I would suggest is to not vent tank out of boat, vent take into bag and bag to thru hull. rest seems good to me  

You can PM me as well for phone number to discuss.