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LS3 Overheat warning, what's going on?


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Here is a pic of my pump with the cover removed when I changed the Impeller. Now that I look at the pic closer I do see the mounting bracket hole from pic #1 in the post above.

image1.jpg

justgary, The link you posted is a pic of a 2012 L96. Just to be clear mine is a 2015 L96.

Here is a pic I found when searching for 2015 L96 Water Pump:

new_raw_water_pump.jpg

Edited by MWJ68
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Ha. Ok No thats just too funny to me. I love trying to communicate in written form. Not! It's so easy to misunderstand each other...

Good on you Gary!

All this time I thought you were saying I didn't have a raw water pump (impeller) but had a recirculation pump in its place.

Now I've got you! I have all three!

Thanks for clearing that up. As you said "a pic would clear things up"

And to clarify: Your thinking the recirculation (mechanical pump exactly like on a car) is the issue? That would explain the lack of sucking from the return from heater line. 
So damaged, clogged? Is there an easy way I could test that?

Possibly a good pump but some other type of restriction in the block itself? $$$$$!

Edited by MWJ68
  • Like 3
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Whew.  I was about to give up.  Or go crazy. 

Pull that circulation pump and check it.  You might find that the impeller has cracked and is no longer pumping for you. 

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I think he's got the terminology right this time.

Some boats just have a hard time priming and need to be rev'd to break the prime.

Another thought for you, do any of these new engines have water filters like the Nautiques do? My bud's Nautique had junk in the filter and needed help priming. We discovered the filter orientation was bad and it kept the "weeds" from going into the junk collector, and the weeds were just blocking the opening.

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On 10/9/2018 at 1:25 PM, JasonK said:

ome boats just have a hard time priming and need to be rev'd to break the prime.

Another thought for you, do any of these new engines have water filters like the Nautiques do? My bud's Nautique had junk in the filter and needed help priming. We discovered the filter orientation was bad and it kept the "weeds" from going into the junk collector, and the weeds were just blocking the opening.

Great thought. My boat will overheat anytime its at idle. Bumping the throttle does increase flow and drop the temp but as soon as it returns to idle the temp starts rising again.

I did install a sea strainer and its clean. No other obvious restrictions.

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Progress?
I replaced the piece of hose. It was the "out" from the mechanical circulation pump. 
I did a test run on the trailer doing a bucket feed. 

The temp came up much slower than before which suggests to me the flow was restricted before. My boat has always run at 159 degrees. 

As it came up to temp I turned on the heater blower and for the first time it was blowing warm air. Both the "to heater" and "from heater" lines were warm. I was getting excited I had the problem solved but the temp then continued to climb. It went to 183 and seemed to stabilize there. This is higher than normal but did stabilize there. The heater was putting out warm air.

Then I starting hearing popping sounds from the engine. I isolated the sound to the line running from the mechanical circulation pump (the same segment of line I replaced). It wasn't popping from the hose but from the metal pipe that runs down the side of the motor that connects the "out" from the mechanical circulation pump to the "in" into a junction that directs water to the " to heater" lines. 

Pics below: I'm pointing to the pipe that was popping. I suspect the popping to be water boiling in the pipe.

This still points to some type of circulation issue?

Thoughts guys?

Depending on feedback I'm still considering changing the mechanical circulation pump next.

IMG-3262.jpg

IMG-3263.jpg
 

Edited by MWJ68
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Fingers crossed!

I changed out the electric Heater Circulation pump. I checked the old one before and flow seemed excellent. 

However,  After changing the pump the system worked good. Temps went to 159 and stayed there! Heater putting out good heat and no popping from pipe.

Shut it down and ran it a second time. Same result. Worked good.

I'll run it again tomorrow (started raining here). Hopefully all is good.

 

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I did another test run this morning. Trailer test with bucket feed  same as yesterday. First run was perfect. Warmed to 159 and stayed there. 

Shut it down for 5 minutes and didn’t change a thing. Second test temp climbed to 182. No popping from pipe like yesterday but also noticed the same pipe was warm but definitely not hot. Meaning the thermostat did not open? 

Bumped the throttle and temp dropped right down to 159 and stayed there. Pipe was now nice and hot. 

So question is: problem solved? 

I know many have commented sometimes you need to bump the throttle to keep the temp normal. Is this required throughout the day or just once after starting up after first launch or between sets? 

What causes this? Air in the system?

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  • 1 year later...

@MWJ68 I've been experiencing similar overheating issues with my 2015 23LSV w/LSA (555).  I know this was a couple of years ago -- but did you ever determine the root cause?  Were you able to resolve it for good?

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1 hour ago, jammer said:

@MWJ68 I've been experiencing similar overheating issues with my 2015 23LSV w/LSA (555).  I know this was a couple of years ago -- but did you ever determine the root cause?  Were you able to resolve it for good?

I'm still guessing that it was his circulation pump....

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was able to resolve the issue. I found a kink in the water line running to the thermostat housing. That helped immensely but not entirely. The overheat was very seldom but it did happen from time to time. 

As JustGary suspected: I changed out the recirc pump. The old one seemed to work just fine. It moved lots of water when tested but I changed it out anyway. Sure enough, no more overheat issues!

Thanks sir!

Edited by MWJ68
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