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DylanR

Oil Change LCR 320

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DylanR

Ok I know there is a million oil change threads on here, but I thought I would ask before I started the process myself about the LCR 320. I know it is almost the same as the Monsoon... but this will be the first time for me doing to myself. 

My buddy suggested Shell Rotella 15w-40 heavy duty oil. He has been using it in his Malibu for years. Since they don’t make the Marine anymore. I will be using this. 

Fram Puralator Filter? Which one specific?

What would you do from start to finish.  

 

Edited by DylanR

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wdr

I have been using the Rotella 15-40 T4 (conv) and now the T5 (syn) since new now at 905hrs and my oil test results from Blackstone lab have been outstanding according to them. I would run away from Fram as anything I have ever read about Fram has been less than confidence inspiring to say the least. I started out using the the NAPA Gold filters 1069 (short) and 1060 (long) on my remote filter mount. I am now using the K&N 3002 because it has the nut on the bottom of it so it is way easier, read not as messy to remove.

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srab

Any 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil will work.  Rotella is fine.

I typically use Mobil M1-111 oil filter.  I wouldn't use the Fram either.

 

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formulaben

+1 on the diesel oil.  Several using Delo 400 SDE.

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srab

Start to finish:

1) start engine, bring it up to operating temperature (not absolutely necessary, but its sure a lot easier to extract warmed oil than cold)

2)  unhook remote oil pan drain hose from that giant paper clip-looking thing, and, using two appropriately sized wrenches, loosen that brass cap

3)  snake an oil extractor (I prefer the Moeller-type with a larger volume reservoir, like 6.5 liter/6.9 qt) hose up through the oil pan drain hose and pump the handle 4 or 5 times

4)  Pump the handle on the extractor a few more times until it starts to sputter/suck air (usually takes less than 3 or 4 minutes with warm oil)

5)  carefully withdraw the extractor hose, wiping it down with a paper towel as you remove it, and coil it into a plastic kitchen-size or so garbage bag

6)  replace cap on remote oil pan drain hose and tighten to snug, then fasten back to that paper clip-looking thing

7)  attach oil filter wrench to oil filter and loosen it a half turn or so

8)  take a gallon-sized zip-lock plastic baggie and roll down the opening edge 2 or 3 rolls

9)  slide plastic baggie over oil filter, then unscrew filter, as best you can, trying to catch all the oil that is gonna spill out (I put down oil-absorption pads in the bilge underneath before I start)

10)  once the oil filter drops completely into baggie, unroll the opening edge, and zip lock the baggie

11)  apply a thin coat of fresh oil on the gasket to the new oil filter (make sure the old filter has its gasket;  a double gasket will make a mess!)

12)  screw new oil filter to hand tight, then apply the oil filter wrench and turn maybe 1/8 turn more (some will argue that hand tight is sufficient all by itself)

13)  using a funnel, pour your new oil into the engine oil fill, after removing the cap located on the engine valve cover, and check the level with the dipstick

14)  start engine again, allowing oil to circulate through the new filter, and recheck the dipstick;  add oil as needed

Edited by srab

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DylanR

Yes, the 15w-40 Rotella I bought is the heavy duty diesel oil. 

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wdr
11 hours ago, saxton15 said:

Is it really diesel oil?  This stuff works for the 5.7L?  Haven't ordered oil in a while and just saw the penzoil is no longer available.  

https://www.amazon.com/Shell-ROTELLA-15W-40-Synthetic-Diesel/dp/B01LG3Q5RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528680298&sr=8-1&keywords=Rotella+15-40+T5

 

The Shell Rotella 15W-40 has a comparable gas engine oil rating of "SM" which shows it is good for gas engines made from 1996-2011. For engines made after 2011 the "SN" rating is applicable, but I doubt there is going to be an issue using SM instead. Especially at 30 hour oil changes.

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saxton15

Interesting.  And it runs good?  Is a different type of oil filter required for this type of oil?  I'm using a Wix one.  

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wdr

Runs like a champ but more importantly, according to my Blackstone report the oil is looking great so no adverse wear. The WIX filters are supposedly good. I just happen to run the NAPA and the K&N  now. The weight of the filters alone tells you there is more material used in their construction when compared to other filters.

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DylanR

Would you all think at a temperature of 80+ degrees outside or in the garage... it would still take a long time for the oil to drain without warming up the motor. 

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wdr

Mine normally takes so long to drain I just pull the hose out and drop it through the rear bilge hole by the side of the oil and let it drain over night after we get done for the day. I can speed the follow on process by pulling the filter off of the remote mount right away, but I hate burning my hands on the filter and making a mess so I just do it before I refill the next day.

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minnmarker
On 6/10/2018 at 2:35 PM, srab said:

3)  snake an oil extractor (I prefer the Moeller-type with a larger volume reservoir, like 6.5 liter/6.9 qt) hose up through the oil pan drain hose and pump the handle 4 or 5 times

Why snake anything anywhere when the pan drain hose has a threaded end?  Tight seal and no risk of cracked or broken or stuck lines.

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srab
2 hours ago, minnmarker said:

Why snake anything anywhere when the pan drain hose has a threaded end?  Tight seal and no risk of cracked or broken or stuck lines.

YMMV, but, for me, it works.

My fluid extractor came with two hoses.  The larger one has an outside diameter just small enough to easily thread it through the pan drain hose.  I don't even need to thread it all the way down to the pan, in fact way short of there.  The viscosity of the oil allows for an air tight seal.  If I'd ever had a problem with losing suction doing it this way, I'd have probably made the effort to fashion a threaded fitting.  But, 12 seasons so far and nary a problem. 

I've read here, a number of times over the years, about hoses getting stuck down the dipstick channel, but I've never yet read about one getting stuck going through the oil pan drain hose.  Not saying it couldn't ever happen, but I don't think its a likely scenario.

Also, FWIW, I use the same hose to extract oil from my jet ski and from my zero turn mower.  I even use it for my walk-behind mowers, and I used to use it for a couple of Honda mini-bikes (far easier than taking out the drain plug, and far less likely to have oil stains in my garage because of a deteriorated drain plug gasket, afterwards).  So, even if I'd made the effort to modify the distal tip to screw into the boat's oil pan drain hose, I'd have had to remove it for all those other applications.

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formulaben
10 hours ago, wdr said:

Mine normally takes so long to drain I just pull the hose out and drop it through the rear bilge hole by the side of the oil and let it drain over night after we get done for the day. I can speed the follow on process by pulling the filter off of the remote mount right away, but I hate burning my hands on the filter and making a mess so I just do it before I refill the next day.

When I winterize, I drop the oil drain through the garboard plug hole and leave it for several days...no oil is in there at all when I get back.  I then refill the filters with new oil and add remaining oil to the crankcase as appropriate.  No pump, no mess, no problem.

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DylanR

FYI I know it has been said before but make sure you have some kind of oil filter tool to remove the filter. It’s a major pain if it’s on super tight. The plastics ones do not work.

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DylanR

I went with the Napa 1069... 

FYI my filter was stuck and I mean stuck... just like all the other threads posted. I stopped and got one of the adjustable wrenches that straps around it. Almost crushed the filter... tried the shade tree move with sticking a screwdriver through it... (put a zip lock bag around it before you do if you try this) didn’t work waste of time. 

Save yourself the time... remove the 3 bolts that holds the filter, remove the Brass nuts that hold the oil lines. Take it to a vice and get a pipe wrench and remove it. Easy. 

I wasted so much time trying all those other things. I hand tightened it myself this time. 

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wdr

That is why I am running the K&N now. It seems like the filter always auto tightens itself.

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