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Adventures of buying used, what is your story (almost sunk boat yesterday)


hawaiianstyln

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Oh this was a fun one.  PO replaced the teak swim step with a massive one off of a Sanger - Swim step is awesome BTW.  Anyway, they mounted that one with small lag bolts a non-structural hollow fiberglass section.  Buddy was hopping in to wakeboard, he jumped off and the swim step decided to come with him.  The lag bolts ripped out. 

Edited by twitchee2
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2 hours ago, minnmarker said:

Just think of how much you've learned!  You probably know more about your boat than 99% of us.

Re #9, if oil pressure OK, maybe do a compression test or have a leak down test done - later.

As for #9... check or replace your PCV vavle as well... when it is stuck open, oil consumption will increase. The pressure is no longer being regulated in the block and excessive oil mist and vapor is being sucked in the intake and burnt out. You won't notice a huge difference in burning oil as if a piston ring was worn and burning oil.

Edited by kerpluxal
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Didnt know that about PCV valve!!!  I will change that but sad to say i dont know where it is and what it looks like.  Whats sad is i know that pcv valve is simple and i should know how to do this 

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3 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

Didnt know that about PCV valve!!!  I will change that but sad to say i dont know where it is and what it looks like.  Whats sad is i know that pcv valve is simple and i should know how to do this 

They are on the valve covers... simply disconnect breather hose to intake (they will be the rubber hoses come from valve cover to somewhere on your intake system depending on year) and pull the PCV vavle out of valve cover. :) 

Most PCV valves contain a spring-loaded device. Once you remove the valve, shake it with your hand. You'll hear a rattle. If you don't, it is time to replace the valve. Even if the valve rattles, if your engine is experiencing one or more of the bad PCV valve symptoms described above, it's a good idea to replace the valve.

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Ahhhhhh yes i thought those might have been pcv valves and had those off when i remove intake plenum to install new thermostat. 

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Regarding the PCV valve is there one on each valve cover that needs to be replaced.  On mine the starboard cover has a PCV valve with the hose that goes to the air intake.  There is some sort of plug on the port cover.  I have only changed the starboard one with the hose.

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I was in the final negotiations for a purple mid-90’s MC. I had looked at it a few times  while on the trailer and decided it was worth a test drive. We went out for about 25 mins. It had a bad hesitation during hole shot then again around 3500rpm so I was concerned. But what pooch’d the deal was what happened after. 

We got out and the owner pulled the plug. It drained full force for over 5 mins. I asked about the packing and he said he had that already taken care of, and that this much water was just normal. 

Idiot. I’m so glad I didn’t buy that boat. Who knows what else was wrong.

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16 hours ago, BSUBU_Kris said:

Regarding the PCV valve is there one on each valve cover that needs to be replaced.  On mine the starboard cover has a PCV valve with the hose that goes to the air intake.  There is some sort of plug on the port cover.  I have only changed the starboard one with the hose.

do you know if that PCV valve is cross-ref'd at autozone or would it just be for a chevy 350/LS1

 

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19 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

do you know if that PCV valve is cross-ref'd at autozone or would it just be for a chevy 350/LS1

Check to make sure it even has a PCV valve.  My 2005 just has a tube with no valve.  I've never had to add oil between changes.

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6 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Check to make sure it even has a PCV valve.  My 2005 just has a tube with no valve.  I've never had to add oil between changes.

It does have one

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So far on my used boat purchase (which I feel is far TOO soon a newer boat)

1.  Actuator on wake gate ($700 repair)

2.  Lower seal went bad on prop shaft output on v-drive (currently in shop & dealer sending for rebuild)

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