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Sam2003vlx

Best Marine Battery

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Sam2003vlx

I currently only use one battery on my 03 that powers everything for the boat including 8 JbL speakers ,12 inch sub and 3 amps. My existing battery gets hooked up to a trickle charger after each use. I want to get a new battery, whats the latest and greatest marine battery. Thanks 

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MLA

Do a dual bank setup. Go with a simple 1/2/BOTH manual switch or a passive/manual setup with switch and auto combiner relay. 

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ORMailbuboater

Agree with MLA.   Go to a dual battery set up.  Done what he said both ways on my boats with good success.  

On my last boat I added a 2nd battery for just the stereo and used an auto combiner.  (After running my single battery down once and getting stuck...)  Mounted battery box next to the existing one. Separated the stereo wiring to 2nd battery.  Downside is not easy to switch for back up start up redundancy if needed.  

My current boat I ordered the 1/2/Both battery option.  Two identical Odyssey Extreme PC1500/34M batteries.  Maybe over kill but I switched to the Odyssey Extreme PC1500/34M 850CCA AGM Group 34M Marine Battery.  Made in America.  Very robust capacity.  Expensive at ~$315 each without a discount.  I got mine at a discount at the time for $250 each.  Pricey compared to many other "Marine" batteries.  

As for Batteries.  There are many to choose from.  I suggest an AGM style battery.  Which stands for Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM).  Sealed battery no acid to spill.  Takes the vibration and pounding in boats.

I have had Optima Blue top batteries but last year one of the two failed at just over 1 year old.  Way early even with keeping trickle chargers on all winter.  Optima switched mfg overseas (China) which I think maybe the reason for quality issues.  IMO not the same quality.  

Odyssey MFG site info below.

ODYSSEY batteries are manufactured to strict quality standards in two facilities globally: Warrensburg, Missouri USA and Newport, Wales United Kingdom.    

ODYSSEY Extreme Series Marine Battery Model 34M-PC1500ST
*This battery model comes with the Separate Spacer for Group 34 Batteries
Group 34 with tin-plated SAE posts, 3/8 inch positive and 5/16 inch negative thread SS stud terminals 
Like an athlete that is both a sprinter and a long distance runner, the ODYSSEY Marine Dual Purpose battery has both massive starting power and amazing deep cycling capability - up to 400 cycles at 80% depth of discharge. With twice the overall power and three times the life of conventional marine batteries, the ODYSSEY battery is ideal for trolling, starting, and for powering the many on-board electronic accessories common in today's boats and recreational vehicles.

Hope that helps.  

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TallRedRider

If you do not want to get a combiner or switch that can keep them separated from time to time, then I would recommend that you NOT buy a new battery to combine with the old.  Combining an old and new battery will likely lead to quick demise of one, the other, or both.   

If the two batteries are always going to be together, then get 2 of the same age and type.  My personal use is to never combine batteries of differing ages and types, and I think it has saved me chasing a few electrical gremlins.  It is more expensive that way, but worth it to me to keep me from being on the water wondering why something isn't working.  Many people use a deep cycle and a starting battery that are only combined intermittently, and that is probably Ok, but I still avoid it.  

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minnmarker

Walmart deep cycle group 29 or 31.  Lead acid is lead acid pretty much.

Get an ACR and  never touch a battery switch again or get stranded.

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minnmarker

Most important is a winter maintainer or charger that has a SLOW charging mode and has a sensing mode.

I know because I have 7 marine batteries in 5 boats and they're all more than 3 years old and they live in the cold all winter.

You don't have to spend a lot.

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Nitrousbird

Dual batteries.  A single battery is inappropriate for your setup.

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MLA
9 hours ago, minnmarker said:

and  never touch a battery switch again or get stranded.

Im interested in how you can get the house battery to crank the engine, without a battery switch. I hope the answer is NOT to break out the tools and swap batteries and cables around. 

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Nitrousbird
2 minutes ago, MLA said:

Im interested in how you can get the house battery to crank the engine, without a battery switch. I hope the answer is NOT to break out the tools and swap batteries and cables around. 

He never said that he wouldn't have a battery switch, but rather never needing to touch on with an ACR.  This is a true statement - I never touch mine unless I'm trying to cut power to the whole boat to work on something electrical.

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MadMan
8 minutes ago, MLA said:

Im interested in how you can get the house battery to crank the engine, without a battery switch. I hope the answer is NOT to break out the tools and swap batteries and cables around. 

How often does your engine battery go dead and need to switch to your house battery?  If it's often enough that a switch is needed, you might want to rethink your battery system.

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MLA
20 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

He never said that he wouldn't have a battery switch, but rather never needing to touch on with an ACR. 

Then ill ask you the same question. Without toughing a switch, that may or may not be present, how do you get the house battery to crank the engine, in a case where the main battery fails? 

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Nitrousbird
1 minute ago, MLA said:

Then ill ask you the same question. Without toughing a switch, that may or may not be present, how do you get the house battery to crank the engine, in a case where the main battery fails? 

Have never once needed to do this.  Out on the water, why would the main battery die?  Unless the alternator dies or the battery is simply bad, there really isn't much reason.  Since the stereo is on a totally separate battery, which is the typical cause of dead batteries on the water, it is a non-factor.  Charging with the onboard charger after every use also helps prevent this.

I've had older batteries get slow to crank, typically from running my ballast pumps with the boat off, but never enough to cause a no-start condition, and I run fairly small AGM batteries.  

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minnmarker
33 minutes ago, MLA said:

Im interested in how you can get the house battery to crank the engine, without a battery switch. I hope the answer is NOT to break out the tools and swap batteries and cables around. 

Why would you hope that?  It's actually never happened but in case, for some reason, it does, switching terminals is not such a big deal.  Less chance of screwing that up than having to remember to have a switch in the right position at the right time day after day after day. ;)

Technology - use it.

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MLA
3 hours ago, MadMan said:

How often does your engine battery go dead and need to switch to your house battery?  If it's often enough that a switch is needed, you might want to rethink your battery system.

Once is one time to many for anyone to get stuck on the lake, would you agree? Arc welding my craftsmen adjustable wrench to the battery posts while undoing multiple cables while the boat bobs on the waves, does not sound appealing, but hay, thats just me. Even more fun at night.

Cant see why anyone would be opposed to a simple turn of a switch, in order to make use of all the available battery power, to refire the boat and get off the lake. 

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