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25LSV Sub options


HGrace

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What are you guys doing for a single sub operation ?  Would prefer to put one behind the board where the driver sits but it’s limited on depth. 

Edited by HGrace
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Plenty of room behind the kick panel for a simple sealed enclosure. I had a jlaudio 12w6 in a sealed enclosure powered by a jlaudio hd750 in my 2016 25lsv. Awesome setup. 

Its also easy to move the kick panel forward a couple of inches for extra space without losing any real usable legroom. 

Edited by lerch
Additional clarification.
  • Like 2
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QBomb sealed box and exile XI12 is what I’m running and it sounds great.

plenty of room for a custom enclosure if you wanted to make the water ripple around the boat.

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Edited by Stevo
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2 hours ago, lerch said:

Plenty of room behind the kick panel for a simple sealed enclosure. I had a jlaudio 12w6 in a sealed enclosure powered by a jlaudio hd750 in my 2016 25lsv. Awesome setup. 

Its also easy to move the kick panel forward a couple of inches for extra space without losing any real usable legroom. 

Do you have any pics?

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If depth is factor, do a direct radiating woofer rather then a woofer housed behind the facade. This might help you take advantage of some width and height, so you dont have to rely so much depth. 

id definitely look to go with a 12" woofer. Within a given woofer brand/series, there is typically only a slight price bump between their 10 and 12, but the gain in output, efficiency and depth are worth it.   

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3 hours ago, HGrace said:

What are you guys doing for a single sub operation ?  Would prefer to put one behind the board where the driver sits but it’s limited on depth. 

Does your boat have a heater? That's the space limitation you will be dealing with.

the kick panel can move out from its stock location that will provide some additional room.

also raiseing the box up off the floor not only helps prevent moisture problems but based on the shape of the hull it gives you additional room for a cubed encloseure

Edited by Stevo
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I do have a heater. And I already ordered the Exile 12’ with their amp to push it. So now my concern is getting a potted enclosure in that area. 

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Ported enclosure could be tough but doable, the hull angle will be what complicates the build. If you have the time/skill/resources I say go for it.

but the qbomb sitting up on blocks is more than adequate.

 

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On ‎5‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 11:48 PM, HGrace said:

I do have a heater. And I already ordered the Exile 12’ with their amp to push it. So now my concern is getting a potted enclosure in that area. 

The main chamber of a ported enclosure will be a little larger than that of a sealed enclosure, but it's still manageable. Nothing says that the port, or all of the port, has to be inside the enclosure. Shape, whether slot or round, doesn't matter. Elbows are fine. Just a few options as you model your box.

   

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On 5/24/2018 at 11:41 PM, Stevo said:

Ported enclosure could be tough but doable, the hull angle will be what complicates the build. If you have the time/skill/resources I say go for it.

but the qbomb sitting up on blocks is more than adequate.

 

27237351-7F4F-46B8-86A6-1EF7FE364248.jpeg

AB893D46-9C33-496E-81E6-B0C773EA586C.jpeg

How did you mount the blocks to the fiberglass?  May be a silly question but curious how you set the box in that position?

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1 hour ago, Jasvols83 said:

How did you mount the blocks to the fiberglass?  May be a silly question but curious how you set the box in that position?

“L” bracket screwed into the blocks and into the floor

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On 5/23/2018 at 11:48 PM, HGrace said:

I do have a heater. And I already ordered the Exile 12’ with their amp to push it. So now my concern is getting a potted enclosure in that area. 

If the heater core and snorkel end up in the way you can consider doing what I did.  I removed the snorkel and relocated it from the walkway to the seat base behind the driver. I also discovered I had plenty of room and hose slack to dismount the heater core and lift it up nearly 6”. That left plenty of room for a 12W6v3 in a porter enclosure with clever design. 

Okay. Finally found where I added the pics. Go to this post. 

http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/62367-2017-fman-lsv-build-larson-marine/&do=findComment&comment=969404

Edited by Slurpee
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7 minutes ago, Stevo said:

“L” bracket screwed into the blocks and into the floor

In the pic above that shows the carpeted front on, did you just cut out a circle, just large enough to go around the sub?  Is the front attached to the box at all?

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1 hour ago, Jasvols83 said:

How did you mount the blocks to the fiberglass?  May be a silly question but curious how you set the box in that position?

I used 1 inch "rubber feet" from the building store. They have stainless wood screws through the middle.

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1 hour ago, Jasvols83 said:

How did you mount the blocks to the fiberglass?  May be a silly question but curious how you set the box in that position?

Just another idea. I tried this out last time because I wanted it secured from front and back. Same wooden standoff blocks (coated in waterproof paint) screwed to the deck. But I used 3M Dual Lock Fastener tape

Aint going anywhere after a good bit of this. Bit of a trick to get it back off but I’ve got the hang of it now. 

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49 minutes ago, Kblagg said:

In the pic above that shows the carpeted front on, did you just cut out a circle, just large enough to go around the sub?  Is the front attached to the box at all?

Set up the box location desired (without the sub mounted) like in the pic below. Mount the carpeted kick panel in place using the factory “L” brackets take a hole saw (I used a 4inch, that I used for mounting can lighting in our remodel)  to drill through the kick panel, reach your hand inside and trace with a pen (I used a silver sharpie) the inside diameter of the box sub opening on the backside of the panel.

remove the kick panel and place the sub kick cover (2nd pic) over the traced circle and measure out and mark the outer diameter of the sub kick cover on the carpeted panel. Cut with jigsaw.

mount sub and cover to box, and the carpeted panel slides in place over the sub and is a nice flush fit.

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Edited by Stevo
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Just another option...

Here is how I mounted my sub box on my 23LSV.  I used trex 2x4 material then ran a piece of rubber grip tape on bottom and used rubber washers between L bracket and floor.  Did this to help reduce any vibrations.  You will also get extra mounting when kick panel is installed.  You can run a couple screws through kick panel into the box.

I also moved my two fixed heater ports to all pull outs.  I can reach just about anywhere in the cabin and bow area.  The pull outs just push back on the side of the sub.  There is only a collar no actual tube they push back into.

The sealed 12" Exile sounds excellent, hits hard and also great for rock songs.  No regrets whatsoever going this route. 

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  • Like 2
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IMG_0791.JPG.166d03dab5fc671001eadac7f2a8e2e0.JPGIMG_0776.JPG.b8bd41ac9f819764b1aa4b0983fcded5.JPG2016 25 LSV.  I reused the stock sub.  Bought this box and striped the carpet and had it sprayed with Linex for $30.  I had a heater so the slanted back helped.   I could not find  a qbomb slanted model.  The specs of the box were great for the Rockford sub. Did not really even move the kick panel forward.  I put 2 hot tubes to the left of the sub like Fman and mounted the sub like above.  If you are looking to save a few bucks using the existing amp and sub this works well and improves the sound a lot.  Cost my less than $100 and a good upgrade for the $$$... 

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