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Heater hose identification help


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I recently purchased the boat early last winter and I am going through testing everything.  The heater wasn't working so I popped under the dash and noticed the hose connections to the heater were unplugged and the hoses were splice into each other.  I thought I would be able to trace the lines back but I lose them under the floor.  I was looking into it and it seems that one comes from the block into the heater and one out of the heater and to the water pump.  I am still familiarizing myself with how everything works but I can't seem to find out which hose is which.  I was thinking I could hook up a fake a lake and disconnect those hoses from each other and the hose that shoots water would be coming from the block?  If I figure that out then I have to figure out which hole to plug it in on the heater...  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  The heater craft website doesn't offer much info so I was hoping one of the crew might know.

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i would be curious as to why they were disconnected in the first place. when you hook them back up try and run the boat at home to check for leaks....heater core might be blown.

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8 hours ago, mackie12 said:

i would be curious as to why they were disconnected in the first place. when you hook them back up try and run the boat at home to check for leaks....heater core might be blown.

Good advice.  Those can pump a lot of water into your boat very quickly.  Had that experience in a Sportster last summer.  

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The only reason I can think of to bypass the heater up in your neck of the woods is because the core is leaking.  It might be a good exercise to remove and inspect it.  Yes, just hooking it up is far easier, but you'll learn a lot more with it opened up in your driveway and a garden hose shoved in one end.  It should be simple to remove it from the boat and open it up.

If it is leaking, just take it to an auto parts store and match it up with an old pickup truck core.  Much cheaper that way.  A search here might even tell you which year and make to use at the parts store.

Regards,

- Just Gary

 

 

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@riot138 I would take the advice by @justgary, pull the unit and check it. it is really simple, four screws holding it in place, three screws holding the fan on and the hoses are already disconnected. Pull the heater core and inspect for leaks.

@powbmps I know, mine let go on Monday.........feet were definitely warm though.......... 

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@mackie12 It's funny you mention it.  I plugged everything in and dropped the boat in the water, fired it up and wouldn't you know I hear the sound of water gushing.  Looked under the dash and water is pouring out of the box.  Thank god I brought the connector that plugs the in and out flow hoses together bypassing the heater altogether.  Down the road I will be looking into replacing the core but for now I don't have the energy.  I just wish I would have come back to this post before putting it in the water last night.

Edited by riot138
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Since it seems that a leaking heater core seems to be a 'feature' and tends to happen with reasonable frequency, high mineral content raw water is very harsh on them.  I install shut off valves on both ends so you can simply shut off any water flow to the core, and do so for the summer.  In the glove box is a heater hose splicer so the core can be isolated from the system and quickly removed for any needed service after that ominous dripping of water on the drivers feet.  

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If you can solder copper pipe then you can probably fix the core.  I've done it twice, my first is going into it's 4th season.  If you replace it with an auto equivalent, seems like @Bill_AirJunky posted a direct fit a while back, late 80's mustang or something like that...?

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13 hours ago, Ndawg12 said:

If you can solder copper pipe then you can probably fix the core.  I've done it twice, my first is going into it's 4th season.  If you replace it with an auto equivalent, seems like @Bill_AirJunky posted a direct fit a while back, late 80's mustang or something like that...?

Prosource, sold thru Autozone, take your core in & compare. It was a late 80s Ford, I think Bronco or F100.

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A radiator shop is also an alternative for heater core repair.  My experience fixing them is you basically chase the solder corrosion around the core, I get a 1-3 years per fix, maybe I'll simply send to @Ndawg12 for a more robust repair:)

The small core for the heater boxes is a Ford Mustang / Bronco unit, 70's-90's era fits the box.

@Mackie 12:  Yes, and much easier access doing the valves in engine compartment.

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