Automatic Bilge Malfunction

[Headhunter 2317 15]

This last weekend we noticed that the automatic bilge kicked on and spit out about 10 seconds of water.

Now, it will not quit humming. No water is coming out but we can hear a constant hum. The switch will not shut it off. If you open the ski locker, you can hear the little motor humming to the rear of it.

How can I get to this little bugger to replace it and or shut it off?

[RTS 1,685]

Open the engine cover. Towards the front of the opening, basically under the ski pylon, you'll see a black plastic panel. It should come out with 4 screws. Remove the cover and you'll be able to get to the pump that way.

[jklein 1]

That happend to mine too. I didn't notice it and it evenutally got really hot and melted the plastic housing until the motor froze up.

I ended up just getting a new pump and replacing it. It was only about 30 bucks I think.

If yours is still going, I would disconnect your battery, get in there like Joe says and pop the cover off the pump. There's probably some debris in there that is forcing the little float into the up (on) position. It works like a toilet float for the automatic portion of the pump.

[Headhunter 2317 15]

Sweet!! Thanks guys. I'll get in there today and see what I can do to fix it. This site is worth it's weight in gold. I didn't notice it at first because we've had the stereo cranked up so much when we are anchored.

Edited September 11, 2006 by Headhunter 2317

[pennery 175]

Mine has done that once. I noticed right aay because it was when we pulled the boat our of the water. I just assumed the float switch was stuck because I just gave mine a few bangs with my hand and it stopped running. Has not happened since.

[Graham 0]

I'm with pennery and kleiny...just give it a (light) tap or two with a screw driver ...

if it doesn't shut off then, you might have a leaf or some foreign object in there...

if all else fails, replace it or it will drive you nuts:)

Edited September 12, 2006 by Graham

[Headhunter 2317 15]

Okay, I took the two screws out of the panel in front of the engine and under the pylon.

Is there something else that is holding this thing in place? I can't see any other screw heads anywhere on it.

[Tom Sawyer 0]

Okay, I took the two screws out of the panel in front of the engine and under the pylon.

Is there something else that is holding this thing in place? I can't see any other screw heads anywhere on it.

I think there's 4. Both sides top and bottom. The bilge pump in my 2001 Rlx did the exact same thing. I couldn't find the exact same pump to replace it with either....had to drive in some new screws to match the bracket on the new one.

[NorCaliBu 82]

I think there's 4. Both sides top and bottom. The bilge pump in my 2001 Rlx did the exact same thing. I couldn't find the exact same pump to replace it with either....had to drive in some new screws to match the bracket on the new one.

When I replaced mine, I took the base from the old one, held it up to the base of the new one and put holes to match in the base of the pump. I'd rather put additional holes in the pump base than in my boat.

[88Skier 1]

The base of the pump is screwed in? That's hokey. If you must try to use the screws that are already there. Be careful not to screw them through the hull if the new base is thinner or if you're using new screws that are longer.

I prefer to glue the base down with marine expoxy. Atwood make a nice self contained 500 gph pump.

[Tom Sawyer 0]

I think there's 4. Both sides top and bottom. The bilge pump in my 2001 Rlx did the exact same thing. I couldn't find the exact same pump to replace it with either....had to drive in some new screws to match the bracket on the new one.

When I replaced mine, I took the base from the old one, held it up to the base of the new one and put holes to match in the base of the pump. I'd rather put additional holes in the pump base than in my boat.

Good call. Although, as long as you use the original screws or ones that aren't any longer, you should be ok.

[NorCaliBu 82]

The base of the pump is screwed in? That's hokey. If you must try to use the screws that are already there. Be careful not to screw them through the hull if the new base is thinner or if you're using new screws that are longer.

I prefer to glue the base down with marine expoxy. Atwood make a nice self contained 500 gph pump.

If you use epoxy how do you remove the old pump base when you put in a new pump? Pump designs change from time to time, you can't rely on finding the exact same base. A boat with three different pump bases glued to the bilge sounds more "hokey" than a couple of #8 x 1/2" SS screws going into a hull that is ~ 1" thick.

IIRC I put the Attwood 500 gph pump in when I melted my old one.

[88Skier 1]

The base of the pump is screwed in? That's hokey. If you must try to use the screws that are already there. Be careful not to screw them through the hull if the new base is thinner or if you're using new screws that are longer.

I prefer to glue the base down with marine expoxy. Atwood make a nice self contained 500 gph pump.

If you use epoxy how do you remove the old pump base when you put in a new pump? Pump designs change from time to time, you can't rely on finding the exact same base. A boat with three different pump bases glued to the bilge sounds more "hokey" than a couple of #8 x 1/2" SS screws going into a hull that is ~ 1" thick.

IIRC I put the Attwood 500 gph pump in when I melted my old one.

I don't think the bottom of the hull is anywhere near 1" thick. If I couldn't match the pump up, I'd break up the old base and glue over it.

I was ready to start drilling on the skier about 10 years ago and fortunately the guy at the marine supply store ask me how I was going to install the new pump. I told him I was going to drill into the hull because it must be at least an inch thick. He told me I must be mad and he gave a tube of epoxy. I think it's definately a better way to go.

[NorCaliBu 82]

I don't think the bottom of the hull is anywhere near 1" thick.

Can't speak to an 88 Skier but when I put in the raw water intake strainer and raw water shut-off valve in my '00 Sporty I had the water intake thru-hull fitting out and I can tell you from first hand experience...it is nearly 1" thick.

I was ready to start drilling on the skier about 10 years ago and fortunately the guy at the marine supply store ask me how I was going to install the new pump. I told him I was going to drill into the hull because it must be at least an inch thick. He told me I must be mad and he gave a tube of epoxy. I think it's definately a better way to go.

Just because someone works at a marine supply store doesn't mean they know anything. West Marine is a perfect example of that. Some of the guys there are great, some of them couldn't find their own butt if they used both hands.

To each his own, mine already had the pump mounted in the bilge with SS screws. I used the same holes to mount the new pump.

[88Skier 1]

I don't think the bottom of the hull is anywhere near 1" thick.

Can't speak to an 88 Skier but when I put in the raw water intake strainer and raw water shut-off valve in my '00 Sporty I had the water intake thru-hull fitting out and I can tell you from first hand experience...it is nearly 1" thick.

I was ready to start drilling on the skier about 10 years ago and fortunately the guy at the marine supply store ask me how I was going to install the new pump. I told him I was going to drill into the hull because it must be at least an inch thick. He told me I must be mad and he gave a tube of epoxy. I think it's definately a better way to go.

Just because someone works at a marine supply store doesn't mean they know anything. West Marine is a perfect example of that. Some of the guys there are great, some of them couldn't find their own butt if they used both hands.

To each his own, mine already had the pump mounted in the bilge with SS screws. I used the same holes to mount the new pump.

West Marine? Those are west coast stores. I only shop at the local stores down on the harbor where the real mariners go.

[Headhunter 2317 15]

Not talking about the screws on the pump. The screws holding that fiberglass plate in place in front of the engine compartment....

[Tom Sawyer 0]

Not talking about the screws on the pump. The screws holding that fiberglass plate in place in front of the engine compartment....

I think there's 4. Both sides top and bottom....I was talking about the fiberglass plate.

Sorry if the other comments in my original post led us astray.

[jklein 1]

Yeah, there should be 4 screws that hold the flat cover plate in place. The cover plate is just there to hide the ugly stuff underneath.

There might be some cables and stuff coming out from under it too, you may have to work it out of there.

[NorCaliBu 82]

I only shop at the local stores down on the harbor where the real mariners go.

Which of those ocean going vessels qualifies you as a "real mariner"? The Skier or the Sporty?

Before joining the bicycle industry I was in the marine industry in the Port of L.A.(both commercial & recreational)...and believe me, there are just as many knuckleheads on the salt water side of things.

Joe - you get that stupid cover off yet?

[MoonDawg 0]

Okay, I took the two screws out of the panel in front of the engine and under the pylon.

Is there something else that is holding this thing in place? I can't see any other screw heads anywhere on it.

Mine has 4 screws that hold it up. Now if I could only find the screws I might re-install it

[MoonDawg 0]

The base of the pump is screwed in? That's hokey. If you must try to use the screws that are already there. Be careful not to screw them through the hull if the new base is thinner or if you're using new screws that are longer.

I prefer to glue the base down with marine expoxy. Atwood make a nice self contained 500 gph pump.

You don't know what hokey is until you see my pumps installation. It was installed with multiple tubes of silicone. That is a real Mariners solution.

[88Skier 1]

The base of the pump is screwed in? That's hokey. If you must try to use the screws that are already there. Be careful not to screw them through the hull if the new base is thinner or if you're using new screws that are longer.

I prefer to glue the base down with marine expoxy. Atwood make a nice self contained 500 gph pump.

You don't know what hokey is until you see my pumps installation. It was installed with multiple tubes of silicone. That is a real Mariners solution.

Maybe that's why they put that cover there, to hide the mess.