Jump to content
IXFE

Installing Exile Surf 9’s w/LED’s on 2018 23 LSV

Recommended Posts

granddaddy55

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
teamerickson
1 hour ago, granddaddy55 said:

Thx

What?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dkscism

Trying to do my own install on my 04 VLX. Thanks a million for this write up. Two questions:

  1. I’m installing 3 amps. 1 for tower speakers, 1 for cabin speakers, and 1 for sub. Can the 250 Amp fuse be looked at as a standard or is there a calculation needed based on the amps/wattage I am running?
  2. I’m running RCAs to the amps from aftermarket head unit. For the remote wire, does this need to be split a few times somehow so it can connect to the 3 different amps? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
IXFE
5 hours ago, dkscism said:

Trying to do my own install on my 04 VLX. Thanks a million for this write up. Two questions:

  1. I’m installing 3 amps. 1 for tower speakers, 1 for cabin speakers, and 1 for sub. Can the 250 Amp fuse be looked at as a standard or is there a calculation needed based on the amps/wattage I am running?
  2. I’m running RCAs to the amps from aftermarket head unit. For the remote wire, does this need to be split a few times somehow so it can connect to the 3 different amps? 

I built my own systems from scratch in my four boats prior to this one. I’ve used that same 250A fuse for all of them (up to four amps). 

For the remote wire I simply daisy chain it from one amp to the next. It’s fun to watch them turn on in a rapid sequence as the signal moves from one to the next. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MLA
12 hours ago, dkscism said:

Can the 250 Amp fuse be looked at as a standard or is there a calculation needed based on the amps/wattage I am running?

Done safely and correctly, all circuit protections are a calculation based on potential load, cable gauge and length. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
IXFE
2 hours ago, MLA said:

Done safely and correctly, all circuit protections are a calculation based on potential load, cable gauge and length. 

Why are you here again??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kojak

I also used the 250A fuse in my four amp install.  The fuse hasn't blown or my boat hasn't burned up yet so I'm assuming it works.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dkscism

Another question, I’m adding new power and ground distribution blocks. Does this also need to be fused like the stock one you modified @IXFE?

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
IXFE
1 hour ago, dkscism said:

Another question, I’m adding new power and ground distribution blocks. Does this also need to be fused like the stock one you modified @IXFE?

thanks

Power block needs a fuse inside the block for every amp you’re connecting to that block. 

Power block also needs a big fuse + holder for the power trunk feeding that block (the power trunk goes back to the battery switch). 

The ground block doesn’t need any fuses. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
carguy79ta

Very nice thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jwl019

Great thread and helped me install my Surf 9's in my 2010, now that I am looking at upgrading to a 2018, I will probably have to reference this thread again.

Does the 2018's need a zone controller (like a ZLD) or is there zone control already in with the software?  I did not notice one being installed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pnwrider
14 hours ago, jwl019 said:

Does the 2018's need a zone controller (like a ZLD) or is there zone control already in with the software?  I did not notice one being installed.

No, you can control zones through the smaller screen as long as you get a dongle that connects the amp to the black box. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jwl019
8 hours ago, Pnwrider said:

No, you can control zones through the smaller screen as long as you get a dongle that connects the amp to the black box.

Is it something you get from the dealer or what do I need to look for to find one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pnwrider
1 hour ago, jwl019 said:

Is it something you get from the dealer or what do I need to look for to find one?

 

14 minutes ago, NWBU said:

Yup, that’s what I used. For the record it will work with any amp that takes rca (not just exile).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jwl019
1 hour ago, Pnwrider said:

 

Yup, that’s what I used. For the record it will work with any amp that takes rca (not just exile).

Require one for each stock amp or does just one do it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MLA
7 minutes ago, jwl019 said:

Require one for each stock amp or does just one do it?

Nothing is required for OEM installed amps, as they are already connected to the media center with a signal cable. If the Murphy black box has zone control, it will be there and function. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
IXFE
On 10/13/2018 at 12:24 PM, jwl019 said:

Require one for each stock amp or does just one do it?

Here’s a more complete answer, @jwl019

It’s not about how many amps you have. Depends on how you order your boat. Those proprietary connectors correspond to ZONES, not amps.  Think about it this way...

The boat has TWO of those custom plugs that terminate in the amp compartment. One is for the cabin/sub zone. The other is for the tower zone.

Scenario 1 (adding aftermarket tower speakers to an otherwise stock system). If you order your boat with the factory LSV sound pack + factory subwoofer those two zones will already be handled by Malibu (ie one of those connectors plugs directly into the factory 5 channel amp which powers cabin speakers + sub).  So in this case you would only be adding the tower zone requiring the tower specific adapter linked here. Even if you power your tower with TWO amps as I did, you still need just the ONE single adapter. Then use RCA splitters to send the signal from that ONE adapter to your TWO tower amps. 

Scenario 2 (stereo delete boat). If you order your boat with NO stereo whatsoever, you will be adding amps for all three zones so you will need the same tower adapter plus this one here for the cabin and sub zones. Note that it’s a completely different connector and has two sets of RCA’s coming out of it (one for cabin and one for sub). Again, if you’re using more than one amp per zone just use RCA splitters to get the signal to both amps. 

I hope this helps. 

Edited by IXFE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×