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Oil drain hose cap frozen


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So I've been trying to get the cap off my oil drain hose off my "new to me" 97 Sunsetter - its not cooperating, and the age of the brass is working against me. I have it soaking in PB blaster but I don't think its going to loosen. Any ideas? My preference would be to replace it entirely - but is there any way to actually get it off without lifting the engine? It is really tight down there. Am I destined to change my oil via the disptick? Ugh.

 

thanks!

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DO NOT USE THE DIPSTICK FOR OIL CHANGE.

Can you use a little heat on it to see if that will loosen it? 

Turn the blower on to get rid of all gas fumes.  Clean off all PB blaster and anything else off of of the brass fitting and nearby drain hose.  Hold the hose with a pair of vise grips.  Using a micro or mini torch apply heat to the nut and have a both wrenches ready to tun after you heat it up.  Second set of hands would be good too.  

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44 minutes ago, buzzsaw said:

So I've been trying to get the cap off my oil drain hose off my "new to me" 97 Sunsetter - its not cooperating, and the age of the brass is working against me. I have it soaking in PB blaster but I don't think its going to loosen. Any ideas? My preference would be to replace it entirely - but is there any way to actually get it off without lifting the engine? It is really tight down there. Am I destined to change my oil via the disptick? Ugh.

 

thanks!

if what @blk93jeepzj says does not work (it should.. brass fittings should come apart easily after heating them), cut the fitting off and replace with new fitting.

Are you trying to do this in the boat or are you running the hose out thru the drain? Much easier if you attempt with hose ran thru the bilge drain plug.

Edited by kerpluxal
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9 minutes ago, kerpluxal said:

if what @blk93jeepzj says does not work (it should.. brass fittings should come apart easily after heating them), cut the fitting off and replace with new fitting.

That would be an easy solution too.  Threaded hose barb, hose clamp, cap or plug for hose barb.   

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I had the same problem; brass cap frozen to the threaded fitting which is swaged onto the oil drain tube. Replacement drain tube assemblies are available, but you do have to pull the engine to replace it, and you may or may not have to pull the oil pan depending if there is a nut and plastic washer on the inside of the pan, or just threaded into the pan.  Cutting off the fitting and replacing with a barb fitting would work, but most likely, the fitting is too large to go through the drain hole of the hull into your collection vessel.  Call me impatient, but I just cut off the fitting, drained the oil, and stuck a correctly sized shoulder bolt into the open rubber tube with a stainless steel hose clamp...done and done.

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16 minutes ago, DWhynot said:

I had the same problem; brass cap frozen to the threaded fitting which is swaged onto the oil drain tube. Replacement drain tube assemblies are available, but you do have to pull the engine to replace it, and you may or may not have to pull the oil pan depending if there is a nut and plastic washer on the inside of the pan, or just threaded into the pan.  Cutting off the fitting and replacing with a barb fitting would work, but most likely, the fitting is too large to go through the drain hole of the hull into your collection vessel.  Call me impatient, but I just cut off the fitting, drained the oil, and stuck a correctly sized shoulder bolt into the open rubber tube with a stainless steel hose clamp...done and done.

Guess it all depends on how you drain you oil.  I use a vacuum pump so no real need to put the oil drain hose thru a drain hole.  I have a threaded fitting that I attach from the pump to the oil drain hose so keeping the threads would be important to me.  

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formulaben
38 minutes ago, DWhynot said:

I had the same problem; brass cap frozen to the threaded fitting which is swaged onto the oil drain tube. Replacement drain tube assemblies are available, but you do have to pull the engine to replace it, and you may or may not have to pull the oil pan depending if there is a nut and plastic washer on the inside of the pan, or just threaded into the pan.  Cutting off the fitting and replacing with a barb fitting would work, but most likely, the fitting is too large to go through the drain hole of the hull into your collection vessel.  Call me impatient, but I just cut off the fitting, drained the oil, and stuck a correctly sized shoulder bolt into the open rubber tube with a stainless steel hose clamp...done and done.

Maybe if you used a standard hose clamp, but shouldn't a band clamp work just fine?

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You most likely have a fitting on the end called a PUSH-ON. Wetherhead Hose and fittings make these and also several other people. If there was no clamp on the original hose than that is what you have. This is a special hose made to work with the fittings directly. You can buy these type fittings on Amazon or just go to local box store and pick up 3/8 or (whatever I.D. Hose yours is)- brass hose barb to 3/8 mpt fitting and a 3/8 brass fpt pipe cap, and a hose clamp. AND THATS THATS THAT. Been in the industrial hose business all my life. We used to make those for many MFG's buy the 100's at a time. 

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1 hour ago, formulaben said:

Maybe if you used a standard hose clamp, but shouldn't a band clamp work just fine?

Yah, a band clamp would work fine, but my point was, next time I change the oil, I'll unscrew the hose clamp, pull out the shoulder bolt, and then drain the oil.

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so good news! I got a smaller vise grip (so it didn't overlap the barrel clamp), and hit it with my small driver drill. That did the trick and it's off now. A little beat up, but I think it's still intact enough to continue to use.

thanks for everyones help! Time for the rest of the spring maintenance :-)

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