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First Time Fluid Change


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Hello Crew,

Please excuse my ignorance as I am a relatively new Bu owner.  I bought a 2002 VLX last year and it was previously maintained by the marina that the other owner kept it in, so I am learning how to maintain it myself.  With the help of the crew, I was able to winterize it in fall of last year, and now it's time to dewinterize.  When I winterized, I did not change fluids however.  I honestly didnt have time, and my Dad helped me to justify that with his theory that he believes it would be better to do after winter versus putting in new oil and having it sit all winter.  He thought getting a clean start in spring would be better anyway.  Anyhow, I need a little guidance (but apologize as I am sure this is asked every year by people like me).

From the research I have done here and in the manuals I could find.  I believe I need to do the following:

1. Change engine oil using 15W-40, and filter, but not sure which make/model for the filter

2. Change the V drive fluid.  From what I read in the Indmar manual, the Walters V drive uses motor oil, so I'm guessing the same 15W-40, but I read the ZF Hurth transmission uses Automatic Transmission Fluid.  Is this accurate?  And if so, what ATF would you all recommend?

3. Replace impeller.  I believe the one I need is this: https://www.bakesonline.com/johnson-09-812b-1-impeller-service-kit.html

Is this the extent of it?

 

Thanks!

Pat

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26 minutes ago, cpuwhiz22 said:

Hello Crew,

Please excuse my ignorance as I am a relatively new Bu owner.  I bought a 2002 VLX last year and it was previously maintained by the marina that the other owner kept it in, so I am learning how to maintain it myself.  With the help of the crew, I was able to winterize it in fall of last year, and now it's time to dewinterize.  When I winterized, I did not change fluids however.  I honestly didnt have time, and my Dad helped me to justify that with his theory that he believes it would be better to do after winter versus putting in new oil and having it sit all winter.  He thought getting a clean start in spring would be better anyway.  Anyhow, I need a little guidance (but apologize as I am sure this is asked every year by people like me).

From the research I have done here and in the manuals I could find.  I believe I need to do the following:

1. Change engine oil using 15W-40, and filter, but not sure which make/model for the filter

2. Change the V drive fluid.  From what I read in the Indmar manual, the Walters V drive uses motor oil, so I'm guessing the same 15W-40, but I read the ZF Hurth transmission uses Automatic Transmission Fluid.  Is this accurate?  And if so, what ATF would you all recommend?

3. Replace impeller.  I believe the one I need is this: https://www.bakesonline.com/johnson-09-812b-1-impeller-service-kit.html

Is this the extent of it?

 

Thanks!

Pat

  1. I use Rotella 15w40
    1. For the filter, you can take it off and get the numbers off it and cross reference at the auto parts store. Mine is a monsoon 350... same as Chevy 350... I just ask for the latest Filter for the chevy 350 truck block.
  2. Is the sticker on the VDrive missing? The transmission will take ATF while some VDrives take GEAR oil (not motor oil) and others take ATF.
  3. For the impeller, Call bakes and they will confirm.. They have good customer relations.

Don't take this from me (as I ride all year long and don't have to winterize for the most part), my understanding is that you want to get the old oil out before long term storage. 

The reason to change before you put it away is this. The products of combustion have by products.
Among them are water and acids. There are additives in the oil to combat both. Over time these additives get used up. By changing oil before you put it away you insure that you have the best protection against acid etching of bearing surfaces ect. 

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1.  I use Delo 400 SDE.  Changed over at the end of last year since Rotella changed up their specs & no longer rated (S/SN) for gasoline engines.  Do a quick search for some extra reading on this.  Take old filter in to NAPA & they can cross reference it for replacement.

2.  Not sure on 2002 VLX....but my 2013 VLX with ZF Hurth v-drive takes ATF.

3.  Bakes will make sure you get the correct impeller, just reach out to them.

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formulaben
6 hours ago, cpuwhiz22 said:

Hello Crew,

Please excuse my ignorance as I am a relatively new Bu owner.  I bought a 2002 VLX last year and it was previously maintained by the marina that the other owner kept it in, so I am learning how to maintain it myself.  With the help of the crew, I was able to winterize it in fall of last year, and now it's time to dewinterize.  When I winterized, I did not change fluids however.  I honestly didnt have time, and my Dad helped me to justify that with his theory that he believes it would be better to do after winter versus putting in new oil and having it sit all winter.  He thought getting a clean start in spring would be better anyway.  Anyhow, I need a little guidance (but apologize as I am sure this is asked every year by people like me).

From the research I have done here and in the manuals I could find.  I believe I need to do the following:

1. Change engine oil using 15W-40, and filter, but not sure which make/model for the filter

2. Change the V drive fluid.  From what I read in the Indmar manual, the Walters V drive uses motor oil, so I'm guessing the same 15W-40, but I read the ZF Hurth transmission uses Automatic Transmission Fluid.  Is this accurate?  And if so, what ATF would you all recommend?

3. Replace impeller.  I believe the one I need is this: https://www.bakesonline.com/johnson-09-812b-1-impeller-service-kit.html

Is this the extent of it?

 

Thanks!

Pat

  1. You'll see that just like @7lazy77 said, many here prefer the Delo.  Don't think of it as Diesel oil, it's just better oil.  I change every 50 hours and at winterization.  Best to get rid of the old oil at the end of the year.
  2. Pretty sure you have the Walter V-drive.  Manual calls for 30 wt motor oil (somewhere I read non-detergent) but I use Amsoil marine gear lube AGMQT-EA.  It meets the spec and it's fully synthetic; also has additives to assist with water intrusion, if it were to happen.  Trans calls for Dexron III, but Dexron VI has superceded it.  I go fully synthetic and change every 2 years.
  3. Yep, that should be the one.  Keep the old one if it isn't trashed as a backup.  Be careful putting those tiny bolts back in...they break easily.
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