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2005 VLX - Considering purchasing


Asmodeus2112

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Hi y'all. I have owned a '99 and '01 LX, and a '01 LXi. Looking to move into a V-Drive and an opportunity  to purchase a '05 VLX has come up. Since I am new to this era boat, I'm reaching out for advice and guidance. I am looking at the boat tomorrow, and will get more details, but already I have found out that it has the the CFT Blade tower. I have researched it here, I would prefer the Illusion X, but am not sure if it's a deal breaker. I will inspect it well. I will get a compression/leakdown test etc., but what are some of the particular things to look for on this model/year?

Engine is 340 Monsoon.

Edited by Asmodeus2112
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Pretty solid boats overall.  I think the '05s had some carpet issues (staining).  I believe they switched carpet in '06.

Damper plate failure is an issue is this era of Malibu boat.  You can google it, but, overall, I think it is a relatively rare occurrence (I have an '06 and it has never given me pause).

In '05, all they had was the manual wedge.  Some, mine included, have only 4 screws holding the wedge plate to the arms, while others have 6 screws.  These screws have been known to fail over time, but it is less likely with 6 screws than with 4.   When they fail, the wedge plate breaks away on one side, typically bending, and often breaking off the attached arm, leaving the wedge plate and a portion of the arm at the bottom of the lake. I make it a point to just change out those screws every now and again.  12 full seasons and mine is still going strong.

I have had to replace the fuel pump on my boat, FWIW.  Don't know if that was a common problem or not.  However, the fuel filter is an in-line filter, proximal to the fuel pump.  I can tell you, with first hand experience, that this configuration encourages vapor lock if you don't keep the blower on, or vent the engine compartment, after shutting down.

 

Edited by srab
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I have an 05 21LSV.  Same boat as yours with a ski locker instead of MLS.  Now have 600 lb. sack in there. No wedge problems but I do check the screws about once per month. All in all I love it. Low hours and no computers.

Never had vapor lock or damper plate issues.

Carpet still looks good.

Have fun!

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05 is an awesome hull but with that tower/wedge and possibly damper plate failure possibility I would strongly consider looking at a different one unless you’re in high 20’s-30k max price range.  An 06 should still be mid 30’s and will have better tower, possibly power wedge, and I think they put better damper plate in that year

edit: I had an 05 prior to my current boat and did have the wedge failure as mentioned, never damper plate but ran less weight than I really wanted cause I was always concerned, and had a flawless illusion tower so was very happy overall

Edited by t a
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1 hour ago, srab said:

this configuration encourages vapor lock

27 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Never had vapor lock

Texas vs Wisconsin.

 

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I had a 2005 VLX that I bought used in 2009 and loved it.  Of course, the first day I took it out after buying it the screws on the wedge broke and it became yard art.  I replaced it with the floating wedge and never looked back.  Another thing that I replaced/upgraded was the perfect pass.  It didn't keep a consistent pull especially when cutting into the wake while wakeboarding.  I had already noticed this on a friend's 2005 VLX and so it wasn't a surprise.  I upgraded the perfect pass to stargazer and that worked great; kind of expensive but a super-easy upgrade.

Other than the wedge and a couple ballast pumps that failed, I never had any real problems with the boat.  The only reason I don't still have it is that I thought I was going to have to move out of state for work back in 2014 and sold it.  Unlike what people say about the day you sell your boat being one of the two happiest days of a boat owners life, I absolutely hated seeing it leaving with the new owner.   Last year I bought a 2007 VLX, which is essentially the same boat but with the power wedge, so obviously I think you will love the boat if you get it.

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Thanks for all the info, it's awesome to be able to draw on so much experience when considering purchases like this. 

Regarding the damper plate. After some searching is seems that symptoms are rattling noises at idle, debris in the bell housing, knocking sounds underway. It looks like the damper plate is difficult to visually inspect, but it is possible to get a slight view. If a damper plate goes out in a VDrive, it sounds like moderate part cost, but significant labor. What is the general procedure to replace? The engine has to be moved away from the transmission, or can the transmission be moved away from the engine or both?

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On 5/1/2018 at 9:09 AM, Asmodeus2112 said:

Thanks for all the info, it's awesome to be able to draw on so much experience when considering purchases like this. 

Regarding the damper plate. After some searching is seems that symptoms are rattling noises at idle, debris in the bell housing, knocking sounds underway. It looks like the damper plate is difficult to visually inspect, but it is possible to get a slight view. If a damper plate goes out in a VDrive, it sounds like moderate part cost, but significant labor. What is the general procedure to replace? The engine has to be moved away from the transmission, or can the transmission be moved away from the engine or both?

You can replace it either way.  Most shops and the Dealer near me recommended pulling the transmission and V-drive instead of the engine.  It's easier that removing all of the rear sun deck, cross members, seat back, exhaust, ect.  It's been awhile since I did this and try to remember all of the steps.  If you are replacing the damper plate go ahead and replace the bell housing too.

1.  Where the transmission/gear box is under the rear seat you can remove the kick panel under the rear center seat.  Remove hoses for cooling and remove ballast pumps to make more room.  

2.  Support engine, will need to be able to lift engine to get transmission off and out. Over head hoist, forklift, come-along

3.  Loosen rear motor mounts, Mark and remove front motor mounts.

4.  Disconnect drive shaft from gear box.

5.  Remove starter. 

6.  Loosen and remove all bell housing bolts from engine.  Move wires and other items out of the way.  Take pictures so you can remember how all of the parts and wires go back. 

7.  Separate bell-housing/transmission from engine.  May have to lift engine to get it all to slide forward.

8.  Remove bolts from bell housing that hold it to transmission (if you replace the bell housing.)

9.  At a cross roads here. You can either take the transmission/V-drive out to clean items up or leave them in place if you have enough room to work.  

     9.1  Have to separate the transmission from the V-Drive to to pull them out.  As you rotate them to get them out you will loose some fluids.

10.  Remove old damper plate, install new damper plate

11.  Good time to replace shaft packing with items out of the way.

12.  Put it all back together.

13.  Have a shop do the prop shaft alignment, unless you want to.  Think there is a write up on here somewhere.  

 

This is close and there maybe some variation.  Feel free to ask any questions, it may help me remember and I'll add the info to the write up.

 

I see you are in Austin.  Go ahead and upgrade to a second fuel pump (low pressure pump) like the kit that Bakes sells.  This will prevent the issue of Vapor lock down there in the Texas heat.

Edited by blk93jeepzj
Vapor lock info, more removal info.
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29 minutes ago, blk93jeepzj said:

You can replace it either way.  Most shops and the Dealer near me recommended pulling the transmission and V-drive instead of the engine.  It's easier that removing all of the rear sun deck, cross members, seat back, exhaust, ect.  It's been awhile since I did this and try to remember all of the steps.  If you are replacing the damper plate go ahead and replace the bell housing too.

1.  Where the transmission/gear box is under the rear seat you can remove the kick panel under the rear center seat.  Remove hoses for cooling and remove ballast pumps to make more room.  

2.  Support engine, will need to be able to lift engine to get transmission off and out. Over head hoist, forklift, come-along

3.  Loosen rear motor mounts, Mark and remove front motor mounts.

4.  Disconnect drive shaft from gear box.

5.  Remove starter. 

6.  Loosen and remove all bell housing bolts from engine.  Move wires and other items out of the way.  Take pictures so you can remember how all of the parts and wires go back. 

7.  Separate bell-housing/transmission from engine.  May have to lift engine to get it all to slide forward.

8.  Remove bolts from bell housing that hold it to transmission (if you replace the bell housing.)

9.  At a cross roads here. You can either take the transmission/V-drive out to clean items up or leave them in place if you have enough room to work.  

10.  Remove old damper plate, install new damper plate

11.  Good time to replace shaft packing with items out of the way.

12.  Put it all back together.

13.  Have a shop do the prop shaft alignment, unless you want to.  Think there is a write up on here somewhere.  

 

This is close and there maybe some variation.  Feel free to ask any questions, it may help me remember and I'll add the info to the write up.

 

I see you are in Austin.  Go ahead and upgrade to a second fuel pump (low pressure pump) like the kit that Bakes sells.  This will prevent the issue of Vapor lock down there in the Texas heat.

Excellent detail, thanks! Sounds like a good time to delete the muffler and put in FAE too!

Edited by Asmodeus2112
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My 05 is awesome, Blade tower is fine except you cant get a bimini which bums me out.  I blew a damper plate 2 summers ago on the 4th of July...great timing right, but I wouldnt worry about it as itll cost you no more to do it now vs after it blows(if it blows).  Plan to replace a few ballast pumps and some other odds and ends, but youll expect that with anything, so buy it and have a ball.  Im curious to know what youre going to pay for an 05.  

Now go buy it, and come back and let us tell you how to upgrade the crap out of it. $$$

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51 minutes ago, 05hammerhead said:

My 05 is awesome, Blade tower is fine except you cant get a bimini which bums me out.  I blew a damper plate 2 summers ago on the 4th of July...great timing right, but I wouldnt worry about it as itll cost you no more to do it now vs after it blows(if it blows).  Plan to replace a few ballast pumps and some other odds and ends, but youll expect that with anything, so buy it and have a ball.  Im curious to know what youre going to pay for an 05.  

Now go buy it, and come back and let us tell you how to upgrade the crap out of it. $$$

Actually you can still get a Bimini for a blade tower.  I got mine from towerbiminis.com a couple years ago.  I think it was $700 or $800, can't remember for sure.  The bummer for me is I can't find and board racks, I might have to get some custom racks machined.

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2 hours ago, stags79 said:

Actually you can still get a Bimini for a blade tower.  I got mine from towerbiminis.com a couple years ago.  I think it was $700 or $800, can't remember for sure.  The bummer for me is I can't find and board racks, I might have to get some custom racks machined.

Hmmmm very very tempting.  How low does it sit?

Edited by 05hammerhead
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Looked at the boat and test drove. Was a bit stormy and choppy, but boat performed fine. I see what people say about the Blade tower swaying, but it wasn't that bad. What do ya'll think a fair price is for a 2005 VLX with 560 hours? It hasn't been abused, but has not really been cared for either. My impression form the owners stories is that it has been owned by middle aged professionals that have had the money for keeping it on slips and paying for service, but it isn't really anyone's pride and joy. Spotty service records, but enough that it looks like the owner paid for service every year. It looks like it hasn't been cleaned in a couple years. Has a few blown out seams on the cushions, mostly original stereo etc. Trailer has sat for a couple years, so master cylinder looks 1/4 full, maybe brakes don't work, needs tires. Some gel fading (red/black color), but no major dings or gauges. 

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Figure the value of a good condition boat and deduct what it takes to make it so minus something for the trouble of fixing it up yourself. The gelcoat you can do yourself with a good compound, polish and wax (plan on 2 long days if doing yourself...1 day of cutting compound and 1 day for polish and this is of course doing it right and taking your time and with black/red, you gotta do it right to bring it back to a mirror polish.... plus few hundred for variable speed rotary, pads and the fluids)....or $1k for a pro. I did my boat recently and it was a lot of work and mine was not in bad shape, I am just OCD and its black hull. Skins could run anywhere from $1k to replace a few to $5k for entire boat depending on the shop you use. Sounds like $1500 or so of trailer work and you want a trailer working well with good tires and brakes. If vinyl not too bad, I would say you want around $5k off the price of a "great" condition boat.

What is asking price for the boat? From what was said above....a good deal considering what you will have to fix and the trouble to do it...plus possibility of what else may happen (like damper plate) would be around $25k? That may be a stretch tho, I don't know. Most people are not educated buyers.

I was actually surfing behind an 08 VLX tonight, great wave with wedge, all the PnP bags and 400lbs of lead on front of bow, using a Mission suck gate.

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17 hours ago, stags79 said:

Here is a pic of the boat with the Bimini out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DZipU2CBHeNDn1AG6

It sits a couple inches lower than the tower,  I'm 6' and it's just about the same height.

2 things.

1 - Does that boat say charlie murphy on it?? LOLOL

2 - Is it easy to take off and put on?  Foldable?

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2 hours ago, 05hammerhead said:

2 things.

1 - Does that boat say charlie murphy on it?? LOLOL

2 - Is it easy to take off and put on?  Foldable?

Yeah, it is the Charlie Murphy.

The Bimini is actually pretty easy to put up.  two of the supports on the back get unhooked, then the two front ones are clipped into place then the two rear ones are put back in to tension the binini. When it's stowed it rolls up and have a cover.  It stays on the tower with the back set of supports.  

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I have an 05 VLX and we absolutely love it.  I bought it 3 years ago, it had 150 hours on it, was in really good shape  they were asking $42K, I offered $32K and the took it.  It has the illusion tower, I added swivel racks, Wet Sound Tower speakers, transom lighting and some other things.  This year we are adding Deckadence and also some interior RGB lighting.  We made our own "suckgate" and this boat surfs beautifully.  I did upgrade the perfect pass, it was not working and they put in a new one for me and we have not had any issues.  My dealer is telling  that it needs a motor alignment, is anyone familiar with this?  Also, I didn't know about the wedge screws, but I will be checking them going forward.  What level of concern should I have about the damper plate?  In conclusion if you can get it for a decent price...BUY THE BOAT!

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Congrats.  

12 hours ago, Asmodeus2112 said:

Just for closure, I wanted to tell y'all that I bought the boat. I'm super excited. First VDrive, and first boat of this era. 

 

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On 5/2/2018 at 11:31 AM, stags79 said:

Yeah, it is the Charlie Murphy.

The Bimini is actually pretty easy to put up.  two of the supports on the back get unhooked, then the two front ones are clipped into place then the two rear ones are put back in to tension the binini. When it's stowed it rolls up and have a cover.  It stays on the tower with the back set of supports.  

Just went out for our first trip in the new to us boat, and I really like the bimini. It has great coverage, four of us could easily sit in the shade and eat lunch, and it was easy to deploy and store. I am 6'3" and didn't have problems with the height. 

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On 5/6/2018 at 8:42 PM, Asmodeus2112 said:

Just for closure, I wanted to tell y'all that I bought the boat. I'm super excited. First VDrive, and first boat of this era. 

I have a bunch of write ups on this boat about the electronics, and the surf setup, etc. When I first bought it (after a TON of research) I did this video which compares the 05 to the 06-08 models: 

Enjoy the new ride! It should surf well. This is mine with suck gate and about 2/3 ballast. Get a torque prop like the 2419 or the 1235 if you are doing longer cruises (over a couple of miles)

sBuYuoc.jpg

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