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Setting up dual battery with a Blue Seas SI-ACR


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Could anybody share a schematic covering before and after for adding Blue Seas SI-ACR and a second battery? Maybe I’m overthinking this but want to understand if my existing Start/House battery becomes the Start battery or the House battery. Is re-wiring of the accessories needed?

this is for a 2000 Sunsetter with 5.7L Monsoon

Edited by Cambo5000
Left of engine type!
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Well, it depends on what your goal is which should then determine how you wire it, but there are a few here with definite opinions on the matter...I prefer the "Shawndoggy Approved" wiring scheme.  As an example, I rarely moor, so I have my bilge pump wired through the switch so when the switch is off, it is OFF.  No dead battery due to a faulty bilge pump switch.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bukk8e6tzugr6g/Blue Seas wiring diagram - Shawndoggy approved.png?dl=0

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No "Perko" switch needed IMO. One battery for stereo and one for everything else connected thru the ACR. How often have you heard of a bilge switch malfunctioning? No reason for switches on the batteries.  ACRs are great.

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25 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

No "Perko" switch needed IMO. One battery for stereo and one for everything else connected thru the ACR. How often have you heard of a bilge switch malfunctioning? No reason for switches on the batteries.  ACRs are great.

How often it too often?  Boating if my fun time.  I'm not letting something this simple ruin my weekend.  You may not see value in the battery switch(es) but no way will I ever operate a boat without one.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, minnmarker said:

No "Perko" switch needed IMO. One battery for stereo and one for everything else connected thru the ACR. How often have you heard of a bilge switch malfunctioning? No reason for switches on the batteries.  ACRs are great.

I agree, no Perko switch needed, just one more thing to fail.  Also, the additional connections to the switch can fail.  Keep it simple.

Edited by MadMan
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11 minutes ago, MLA said:

I agree, skip the Perko. Instead, go for the proper Blue Sea System Dual Circuit Plus switch :whistle:

I put Perko in quotes so the thought would include all switches :whistle:

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I’m going with just the ACR (no switch) and a second battery. Hoping to install both in the left storage locker (existing single battery is in the right storage locker) which seems to make the wiring convenient since they’ll be close to existing battery connections to the motor. That’s where my question about the accessories comes in...do I have to run anything up to the front panel? It’s currently a stock setup if that helps. Sorry, boat is new to me. I’m an engineer, just not an EE...

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I went from the factory dual battery capable system using a Perko 9001E switch that had just a single battery to two batteries with the Blue Sea 7650 ACR / switch kit.  

For my design the starter battery normally just runs to the starter and that's it.   Accessories and the stereo run off the house battery.

In the diagram I show a wire for the key "start" terminal to the ACR isolation terminal.   After installing it I found that the start terminal was always hot when the engine was on, so I had to run that cable back to the starter relay.

I moor for a few weeks of the year, so I hard wired the bilge pump to the  house battery via a fuse on fuse block.  

battery_design_schematic.jpg

switch_layout.jpg

 

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7 hours ago, Cambo5000 said:

I’m going with just the ACR (no switch) and a second battery. Hoping to install both in the left storage locker (existing single battery is in the right storage locker) which seems to make the wiring convenient since they’ll be close to existing battery connections to the motor. That’s where my question about the accessories comes in...do I have to run anything up to the front panel? It’s currently a stock setup if that helps. Sorry, boat is new to me. I’m an engineer, just not an EE...

Just wire all the stereo, including the head unit, to the second battery.  So you have to run a wire or two to the front.

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11 hours ago, minnmarker said:

I put Perko in quotes so the thought would include all switches :whistle:

Thats what made it so easy to have a little poke in the eye :biggrin: In all seriousness, the bluesea DCP switch is soooo different from a typical 1/2/BOTH switch, its somewhat if a pet peeve of mine to use the generic term "perko" for all battery switches.  

8 hours ago, Cambo5000 said:

I’m going with just the ACR (no switch) and a second battery. Hoping to install both in the left storage locker (existing single battery is in the right storage locker) which seems to make the wiring convenient since they’ll be close to existing battery connections to the motor. That’s where my question about the accessories comes in...do I have to run anything up to the front panel? It’s currently a stock setup if that helps. Sorry, boat is new to me. I’m an engineer, just not an EE...

Well, its been discussed hundreds of times, the pros and cons of using/not using a switch, here on TMC and other forums, so I wont go through them again. I will presume you have weighed both sides. 

To answer your question. When holding a B+ cable, ask yourself "is this needed to make the boat go?". Answer that, you will know which bank to connect it to.  

  • Like 2
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  • 6 months later...

I have a large stereo on my boat with 6 large batteries.  I have never used a ACR but would this be good to use with 6 Batteries instead of a Perko?  I have 2 battery chargers that I hook up every night after use, but just learning of the ACR.    

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On 10/17/2018 at 10:49 AM, MLA said:

For large battery banks, I prefer a traditional 1/2/BOTH switch. 

thank you for your reply.  i am just trying to figure out most efficent for when we are just relaxing at the beach.  I normallly can play music all day all the way up with the 6 batteries.  

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