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Looking at a boat tonight! 2010 23LSV


Ryan1776

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The Malivue preset will auto fill/drain if set up or the first push of the MUX switch fills and the second push stops and the third push drains the tanks. The preset will auto shut off when full and using the MUX will continue to fill until you hit the MUX switch for the ballast or the ALL OFF on the MUX.

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42 minutes ago, Ryan1776 said:

That's a good point for sure. I'm just not keen on drilling the hull. 

Drilling a hole isn't that bad at all. I was nervous on the first one but the second one was easy. Just get some magnets and  measure twice.  There's lot so of good info on here to set you at ease. Break the gel by drilling backwards, then switch to forward to cut the rest. Use the good sealant on the through hull. Easy peasy. I drilled two new through holes for my rear pumps. I have the stuff to add my bow pump but haven't installed it yet. I will use my mid ship drain hole for that one. I have never pulled that plug. 

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10 minutes ago, wdr said:

The Malivue preset will auto fill/drain if set up or the first push of the MUX switch fills and the second push stops and the third push drains the tanks. The preset will auto shut off when full and using the MUX will continue to fill until you hit the MUX switch for the ballast or the ALL OFF on the MUX.

Nice. 

 

9 minutes ago, wdr said:

Yep 8.

DAMN. Honest question, how come they never went to positive pumps and use half the amount of them? Yeah they're more money but c'mon these are 80-130k boats anymore. Not to mention, positive pumps can me mounted anywhere and make them accessible to change impellers. 

 

7 minutes ago, isellacuras said:

Drilling a hole isn't that bad at all. I was nervous on the first one but the second one was easy. Just get some magnets and  measure twice.

Just nervous for sure. But with enough planning, I guess it's not bad. :blush:

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On 2/18/2018 at 5:18 PM, isellacuras said:

re doing the stock hoses would be a PITA. The hoses are routed through the boat like a crazy maze. I know that's not a project I'd want to tackle. Like NWBU said, plumbing in reversibles is really the way to go. It's a little more money but well worth it in the long run. You can click a switch and fill the bags while the stock tanks are filling. Another big advantage aside from speed  is the bags suck pancake flat when you drain them which isn't the case with passive draining piggy back system. 

for the rears I upgraded to the piranha 1100s... the inlet on all piranha's pumps are .75"... the outlet on the 1100s is 1 1/8".. routing of hoses is from pump next to transmission directly to the tank... very easy... go to Ace Hardware and get a new fitting for the tank and now you have updated to the 2012 spec of pumps.. I can fill my 1100 piggy backed on top of the 250 hard tank in about the same time it takes to fill the center tank. Did not buy wakemaker's piggy back:

  • Pump to Hard tank and to bottom of piggy backed bag with a y fitting (a tee fitting will not work...)
  • Hard Tank vent to bottom of piggy backed bag
  • Top of piggy backed bag to vent.

If you decide to run additional pumps... always fill your bottom tank first before filling top tank... the screwed in floor board in your locker will not support the weight of the bag on its own.. bottom tank must be filled first... ask me how I know...

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On 2/18/2018 at 6:26 PM, Ryan1776 said:

DAMN. Honest question, how come they never went to positive pumps and use half the amount of them? Yeah they're more money but c'mon these are 80-130k boats anymore. Not to mention, positive pumps can me mounted anywhere and make them accessible to change impellers. 

They are pros and cons to both and everybody has a difference of opinion of them.

Aerator Pros:

  • 1100 and greater per hour will fill faster than a reversible pump (The M235 center tank is filled with a  3500 gph pump) New Malibu's are 1100 gph or faster
  • Cheaper to maintain

Aerator Cons:

  • 2 required per bag (1 fill, 1 drain)
  • more complicated to setup
  • Does not drain bags 100% (not sure on hard tanks but I believe all water is removed with nose up and draining)

Reversible pros

  • No loss of head pressure
  • 1 pump fills and drains
  • will drain sacs until there is no water left in them,

 Reversible cons

  • More expensive up front
  • slower fill times
  • expensive to maintain

Draining your tanks and leave an aerator pump on and forget to shut off when tanked is drain... no problem... Draining your tank and leave a reversible pump on and forget to shut off when tanked is drain... buying a new impeller.

 

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12 hours ago, kerpluxal said:

for the rears I upgraded to the piranha 1100s... the inlet on all piranha's pumps are .75"... the outlet on the 1100s is 1 1/8".. routing of hoses is from pump next to transmission directly to the tank... very easy... go to Ace Hardware and get a new fitting for the tank and now you have updated to the 2012 spec of pumps.. I can fill my 1100 piggy backed on top of the 250 hard tank in about the same time it takes to fill the center tank. Did not buy wakemaker's piggy back:

  • Pump to Hard tank and to bottom of piggy backed bag with a y fitting (a tee fitting will not work...)
  • Hard Tank vent to bottom of piggy backed bag
  • Top of piggy backed bag to vent.

If you decide to run additional pumps... always fill your bottom tank first before filling top tank... the screwed in floor board in your locker will not support the weight of the bag on its own.. bottom tank must be filled first... ask me how I know...

This is a good tip right there! Thank you.... bummer about the floor. But fulling both at once as you described is fine? 

 

12 hours ago, kerpluxal said:

They are pros and cons to both and everybody has a difference of opinion of them.......

This is a good honest list. All makes sense. I must say I'm surprised the positive displacement reversible pumps take longer to fill. 

13 hours ago, Gavin17 said:

So did the OP buy this thing. If so I must have missed the photos...

 

1 hour ago, saxton15 said:

Still can't see the OP boat.  Is this the first case of "it didn't happen"?

No, nobody missed the photos. I'm not a paying member to submit photos. And I don't have a photo bucket. 

Here is the link to the listing. But it doesn't show the "defects" of the boat which is what I wanted feedback on anyway. 
Not a huge fan off all white. It's too sterile. So I'd probably have some wrap company  color that wedge beneath the "setter" to the transom. 

I have a deposit on it. Waiting for ice to melt. 

https://www.skierspier.com/default.asp?page=xPreOwnedInventoryDetail&id=4326244&p=2&s=Year&d=D&fr=xPreOwnedInventory

 

 

Edited by Ryan1776
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2 hours ago, saxton15 said:

 

@Ryan1776Nice!  Definitely needs a good clean, but I like the updated Wakesetter logo on the side.  Mine is naked, but I've been considering getting the newer logo done.  

 

Considering it doesn’t show the hull scratches all down both sides up to the windshield from the dock or trailer. 

The rear most corner seats do need repair. 

No heat. No underwater lights. Stock tower speakers, which I’m under the impression that they’re terrible. No sub. Stock ballast. 

Think the price is ok? I feels it’s close. But a bit high. 50out the the door I think is closer. 

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It'll take about $6K and some time to put a new sub in, 4 piggyback or replacement ballast bags and plumbing, and surf gates on it.  It seems a little over priced for all white and 500+ hours but not bad if it was well taken care of.  How bad are the seats?  Stretched seams or split vinyl?  Make sure you do a good long water test and test everything  :)

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15 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

, and surf gates on it.

You can retro surfgates to that boat? Meaning it'll work within the current interface-Malivu? Or do you mean installing it and having a separate controller?
Surf gates aren't my number one priority. The boat will come with one of those suction cup shapers. Non of us are good enough to need to transfer on the fly. 
I also have a full working set of Lencos and controllers from a project years ago not relating to surf, just actual trim tabs that I could use. But like I said. Not my number one. 
Ballast, sub, tower speakers are my most wanted on this boat and I've seen a FEW boats go for this price with all that and heat, underwater light. 

The center seat in the rear was completely recovered and apparently that exact color isn't offered so it's not a perfect match, it's close enough for sure. The two corner seats at the actual corner, toward the center, the seams/vinyl is split. Totally livable for now but will need it shortly. Just from being stepped on. The discoloring of the bow vinyl was already addressed here and its from the adhesive and interaction with the boat cover. 

20 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Make sure you do a good long water test and test everything

Tips on this would be great too.  

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On ‎2‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 10:37 PM, abattle10 said:

PM sent. 

I had always assumed my problems were from neglect from the previous owner and like I said, may be just a coincidence that this trailer has rust issue or maybe not.

Every Eagle trailer I've seen (not a lot) have looked like junk compared to the boatmate.  Not a fan of the Dorsey ones I've seen either..

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How bad are these scratches?  If they are bad enough to notice on a white hull, you may want to get an estimate on how much it would be to repair them, or look into doing it yourself.  Same goes for the seats.  These are things that hold true value in the boat, and they will get annoying down the road.  They might also be fairly costly, which will inevitably take away from the new stereo/ballast system.  

 

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On the hull itself, there's some good scratches but from 5 feet you can't see them on the white hull, not surprising. I had to angle my camera to get them to appear in photo. Not through gel I don't think. However, ONE spot on the main center "V" IS though the gel and should be repaired as it's most likely under water or close to it. 

Figured out a work around to photos.....  1:55 mark starts the scratches. 

17 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Surf gates contact @martinarcher - you'll want them.

 

 

Who is he, what does he do? hahaha 

17 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Vinyl - knock the price down or run.

I mean, it makes sense, its the entry exit point of the boat. I've seen another similar hour boat with those corners popped. Any thoughts on dollar amount to come down? 

Edited by Ryan1776
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8 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Seats and scratches and options (none).

Are these level of imperfections expected on an 8 year old 500+ hour boat? Honest question. Or should I expect prefect at that price? 

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1 minute ago, hunter77ah said:

Skiers pier is now owned by tommys....

I heard that that might be true...so it is huh? What does that mean for me in terms of negotiating? Service? Or does it mean nothing?

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33 minutes ago, Ryan1776 said:

Are these level of imperfections expected on an 8 year old 500+ hour boat? Honest question. Or should I expect prefect at that price? 

The gouges in the hull suggest that the previous owner was not diligent or careful.  Be careful.  Better yet, find someone local that knows boats and go over it with them.

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35 minutes ago, Ryan1776 said:

I heard that that might be true...so it is huh? What does that mean for me in terms of negotiating? Service? Or does it mean nothing?

I don't think that over paying for the boat now is going to buy you better service in the future.

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Yeah some of those gashes look like pure carelessness....I'd be weary.  Those will need some gel work.  Are these things normal for 500 hours?  Maybe, maybe not.  But i've seen some high 700 hour, 8 year old boats that were pretty clean.  

 

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