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Picture of Single exhaust port Routing '15 and up Axis FAE


SafeGate

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Would someone mind taking some good pictures of the way the exhaust routes after the manifolds on a Single Exhaust Port Axis model (I think it's '15 and up Axis boats).

 

I've got a '14 Axis A20 with two exhaust ports and am thinking about modifying it to a single exhaust port with an Fresh Air Exhaust pipe. I think the 3 piece FAE exhausts look hokey and the single routed FAE pipes look killer. Too much time off this winter i think...

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It won't be anything like how it is in your boat. The Indmar engines the exhaust is completely different from the PCM which is 15+. 

With PCM the outlet on the exhaust manifold points to the front of the boat and connects then runs under the engine to the muffler then through the hull. 

Indmar the manifolds point to the back of the boat and go almost directly into the muffler then out the hull. You will also have a giant hole to plug up if you try to convert. 

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Moving forward with the single exhaust conversion on the '14 Axis. I expect a slight unnoticeable loss in performance. For a little bit extra money and time measuring, I think the return will pay off. Time will tell. 

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Are you thinking the FAE causes some issues with buyers or the exhaust mod? I agree some people are particular so I'll keep the reversibility in mind.  it's a 20 footer so it will already be harder sell (but cheaper so it may not be too much tougher)  

Ive always had issues with fiberglass mufflers as they age. They always leak and finding old replacements are a pain.

 

The noise reduction, muffler delete, and surf exhaust pipe that I'm planning are all upgrades in my opinion. 

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Any recommendations on the method to fill in the exhaust port? I was thinking of making a fiberglass piece to exact thickness and fit it in with a bead of 5200 on the internal edges. Maybe one final layer of glass on the inside of the transom. 

Then use a round stainless cover plate on the outside to finish it off. Maybe paint or powder coat it to match color to blend in. 

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I'm no expert, but I wouldn't "fill" the port with fiberglass.  I'd instead install a custom-fit stainless steel cover plate that incorporates a round section that fills the empty area so that you could fill it (and the flange surface area) with 3M 4200 and to seal it properly and also maintain reversibility, should a future owner prefer it.  The round stainless plate could also hold a large underwater LED light if you want to make if functional.  Basically, you'd be making a flat round plate with a 4" circular insert that mimics the current exhaust port so that if could be reversed if necessary.

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Why don’t you just get a FAE for a dual exhaust setup? I know you said it looks weird, but so does a single exhaust on a dual exhaust boat. Regardless of what you put in its place. 

Edited by ahopkinsTXi
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44 minutes ago, Cole2001 said:

If you get the one piece welded together dual exhaust it actually looks pretty good. 

Yeah the new fae are way nicer looking than the original. And I just looked it’s only $50 extra for blended welds. Not a bad deal. 

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On the '14 A20, the 3 piece FAE is the only available option if you have a floating wedge. I would pick the one piece model with dual Port exhaust if it was available  

 

Cost wise, it about the same to do the 3 piece FAE and straight pipes to dual Port exhaust. It may be $100 more to do the setup I'm talking about since my muffler is toast and I'm doing a muffler delete  

 

Single exhaust on the left and a 4" round underwater led to cover up the right side won't look odd. The '15 models have the single exhaust like this and most can't tell the difference between a 2014 and 2015 axis and fewer know how many exhaust ports are supposed to be on it  

 

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On 12/22/2017 at 7:03 PM, SafeGate said:

Ive always had issues with fiberglass mufflers as they age. They always leak and finding old replacements are a pain.

I've seen a couple boats over the last 20 or so years with this issue. They always come down to how the boat is winterized. Water in the muffler froze & cracked the fiberglass.

Should be interesting to hear how this mod works out. Seems like a lot of work for something that may or may not actually be an improvement.

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22 hours ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

I've seen a couple boats over the last 20 or so years with this issue. They always come down to how the boat is winterized. Water in the muffler froze & cracked the fiberglass.

Were these direct drives or v-drives?

Edited by MadMan
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