Check your malibu trailer bunks

[Bird]

There is a better fastener for this location. Rather than a carriage bolt use a elevator bolt. Elevator bolts have a flat top instead of a dome top and the elevator bolt has a larger diameter head. I did a slight counter bore to insure the head didn’t stick up. Place a small amount of construction adhesive under bolt head before placing bolt. Make sure you use bolts long enough for double jam nuts underneath

[Eagleboy99]

29 minutes ago, Bird said:

Make sure you use bolts long enough for double jam nuts underneath

Or a Nylock fastener.  No need to ferkle with double jam nuts.

[gregtay]

2 hours ago, Bird said:

There is a better fastener for this location. Rather than a carriage bolt use a elevator bolt. Elevator bolts have a flat top instead of a dome top and the elevator bolt has a larger diameter head. I did a slight counter bore to insure the head didn’t stick up. Place a small amount of construction adhesive under bolt head before placing bolt. Make sure you use bolts long enough for double jam nuts underneath

Yes... brilliant advice, sadly it is the factory that needs to listen to it.  I would never build my own bunks with round carriage bolts that don't have a countersunk inset of some sort.  Just insane that the factory is this lazy. 

[Eagleboy99]

1 minute ago, gregtay said:

Yes... brilliant advice, sadly it is the factory that needs to listen to it.  I would never build my own bunks with round carriage bolts that don't have a countersunk inset of some sort.  Just insane that the factory is this lazy. 

Carriage bolts work perfectly fine and are stronger than elevator bolts.  One need only spend enough time to  ensure the head is below the surface.  Either by cranking them down or using  a bit to countersink them a little.

[gregtay]

Just now, Eagleboy99 said:

Carriage bolts work perfectly fine and are stronger than elevator bolts.  One need only spend enough time to  ensure the head is below the surface.  Either by cranking them down or using  a bit to countersink them a little.

I didn't mean I wouldn't use carriage bolts.. simply meant that I would countersink the hole to ensure they there is no way the boltheads make contact to my hull.

[justgary]

I'm a fan of using short stainless lag bolts from the bottom.  When they start getting loose and your bunks try to float off, it is time for new bunks. 

Or in my case, it is time to move the bunks one inch and drill new holes for the lag bolts... except for my little fishing boat, where I simply tied the bunks back on with paracord.  That was close to 20 years ago!

[dalt1]

51 minutes ago, justgary said:

I'm a fan of using short stainless lag bolts from the bottom.  When they start getting loose and your bunks try to float off, it is time for new bunks. 

Or in my case, it is time to move the bunks one inch and drill new holes for the lag bolts... except for my little fishing boat, where I simply tied the bunks back on with paracord.  That was close to 20 years ago!

Had a bunk float off before. Lucky it was spotted before gouging the hull. Never lag bolting bunks again. Carriage bolt from top for me and crank down below the surface.

[Eagleboy99]

Every year I see a couple bunks floatingin the lake.  LOL

[dalt1]

20 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Every year I see a couple bunks floatingin the lake.  LOL

And all them loose lag bolts end up on the ramp for you to carry home in your tires. Lag bolts and wet soggy wood have no reason to be together and they soon separate.

 

[Eagleboy99]

6 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

And all them loose lag bolts end up on the ramp for you to carry home in your tires. Lag bolts and wet soggy wood have no reason to be together and they soon separate.

 

Sadly, I've experienced this.

[Bird]

The issue using nylocks is some times they create too much friction that they spin the lag to the point you can not keep the lag from spinning and tighten