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Boat Starts, seems to run ok, gauge cluster not working


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I did some checking and was advised that my boat does not have a cannon plug, that they were on older Malibus.  Was also told that since the center gauge was displaying all the data when I scrolled through it, that it probably wasn't the MMDC and that the gauge was bad. 

Can anyone shed some light on this for me please?  I hate to spend over $200 on a gauge if it doesn't need to be replaced.

Edited by Kojak
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Well I bit the bullet and ordered a new MDC module.  My local dealer indicated it was ~$470 and that Malibu was out of stock and it was not made anymore.  I called Bakes, and they had one in stock and they said Malibu showed 16 in stock, (but it was ~$550).  My only guess is my Malibu dealer looked up the wrong part (they quoted based on my hull ID), the Bakes part matched the same number on my current module (I took a picture to be sure).

Weird, but hope it is the right part and it is what is wrong, $500+ could be an expensive lesson. 

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On 5/23/2017 at 6:51 AM, iliketoski said:

Well I bit the bullet and ordered a new MDC module.  My local dealer indicated it was ~$470 and that Malibu was out of stock and it was not made anymore.  I called Bakes, and they had one in stock and they said Malibu showed 16 in stock, (but it was ~$550).  My only guess is my Malibu dealer looked up the wrong part (they quoted based on my hull ID), the Bakes part matched the same number on my current module (I took a picture to be sure).

Weird, but hope it is the right part and it is what is wrong, $500+ could be an expensive lesson. 

Did that fix it?  I went ahead and ordered a new gauge and thankfully that fixed the problem for me.

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Heading to the lake to install new MDC, but now I've got another thought (although too late since I bought the MDC).

As I said earlier when I tested the two inline fuses, 1 is 2a the other is .75a,  They both showed continuity at one end of resistance scale, but the .75a didn't show continuity at mid scale and the rest.  I just figured since it was a low rating, has limited continuity.  (I'm a mechanical engineer not electrical :-))

Anyway decided to pick up some fuses to have them just in case.  Well I tested the .75a fuse I just bought and it show continuity at all ranges.  So this is telling me I either have a partially blown fuse or a faulty meter, (I used a different meter at home).

I'm not going to tell the wife if the $1 fuse fixes the issue.  But I might have a new MDC to sell.

Edited by iliketoski
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Good news and bad news to report:

Good, Issue fixed in less than 5 min, it was an inline fuse.  Unfortunately the fuse did not test completely bad, there was continuity at several settings on the meter.

Bad, I now am the owner of a brand new, (never opened), $500+ MDC computer module.  (I did tell the wife)

If anyone knows someone in need, I'll give them a good price.

 

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4 hours ago, iliketoski said:

Good news and bad news to report:

Good, Issue fixed in less than 5 min, it was an inline fuse.  Unfortunately the fuse did not test completely bad, there was continuity at several settings on the meter.

Bad, I now am the owner of a brand new, (never opened), $500+ MDC computer module.  (I did tell the wife)

If anyone knows someone in need, I'll give them a good price.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the posting the resolution.

Your previous post indicating that the MDC is becoming a tough part to find has me wondering if I should have a spare sitting in my garage...... Obviously, price tag is a big obstacle.    

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1 minute ago, John I. said:

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the posting the resolution.

Your previous post indicating that the MDC is becoming a tough part to find has me wondering if I should have a spare sitting in my garage...... Obviously, price tag is a big obstacle.    

Or just keep it as an investment and sell it when they are even harder to get ;)

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It was weird that my local dealer said Malibu was out of stock and they don't make them anymore, yet Bakes had 1 in stock and showed Malibu had 16 more.  I think my local dealer looked up the wrong part.

I have thought about keeping it as a spare, (or an investment)

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26 minutes ago, iliketoski said:

It was weird that my local dealer said Malibu was out of stock and they don't make them anymore, yet Bakes had 1 in stock and showed Malibu had 16 more.  I think my local dealer looked up the wrong part.

I have thought about keeping it as a spare, (or an investment)

Imagine the inventory fun that's going to ensue 10 years from now when everyone's dash iPads are all freaking out and they've changed rapidly...

If they're that rare, I agree.  Maybe good to hold onto.

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Hello , you and I have or had the exact problem. My boat is a 2003 response LX. I also ordered a new MMDC out of frustration up to Canada $1200 later and still didn't fix it. I checked every single ground, gannon , etc.  In the red fuze holder I have a 3 amp flat plasticfuze  that looks good. Is the other fuze on the purple wire the .75 glass fuze? If that glass fuze on the purple wire blows my PP or stargazer goes out. Am I missing a fuze somewhere ? 2 years with no gauges and i'm beyond frustrated.

 

 

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Mine were inline fuses in the white plastic holders (spring loaded, push and twist).  One was .75a (the one that was bad) and the other was a 2a.  These are the older glass cylinder type. They were inline on the wires that fed the MMDC.  The .75a fuse passed continuity check, but only at the end of the spectrum settings, which I mistakenly thought was good.  I installed my PP after purchase, so it is fed from different wiring. (and was the only thing that was working).  You can check all fuses with a multimeter, and a continuity check (resistance).   Touch leads together, you should get the same result checking both sides of the fuse.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/13/2017 at 7:16 AM, iliketoski said:

Mine were inline fuses in the white plastic holders (spring loaded, push and twist).  One was .75a (the one that was bad) and the other was a 2a.  These are the older glass cylinder type. They were inline on the wires that fed the MMDC.  The .75a fuse passed continuity check, but only at the end of the spectrum settings, which I mistakenly thought was good.  I installed my PP after purchase, so it is fed from different wiring. (and was the only thing that was working).  You can check all fuses with a multimeter, and a continuity check (resistance).   Touch leads together, you should get the same result checking both sides of the fuse.

I'm struggling with the same problem. First, gauges reset but that's it. No movement after the buzz. The, after playing with all the connectors, they work. Then, a couple hours later, they don't move. Then, after playing with the connectors, they don't even reset. Completely random seeming. They only think I haven't tried is the inline fuses. I looked for them behind the dash and under the dash. Can't see them. I didn't take apart the wire look (yet). I have a 99 Sunsetter VLX. Anybody know if it has inline fuses and if so where they are?

Thanks.

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I'm not sure where to tell you to look for the fuses but based on what's been said in this post they are inline on the wires feeding the MDC in white plastic holders. These wires feed into the large 18 pin connector that plugs into the bottom of the box.

Sounds like it may not be a fuse problem in your case but a connection or grounding issue. Which connectors are you playing with?

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My inline fuses were under the dash feeding the MMDC, in easy sight.  However, I wouldn't think an intermittent problem would be a fuse, unless its a broken fuse holder whose connection is making/breaking.  A fuse is either good or not.

I have an MDC if you need to buy one :-). Cheap @ $500

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  • 11 months later...

My volt gauge is intermittent.  Sometimes it works, but often doesn’t.  All other gauges in the cluster work fine.  I’ve tweaked every ground I can think of— including canon plug.  

It’s hard for me to believe the inline fuses might be causing this behavior, but I’m going to change them today regardless.

I’m also going to clean and reset the hot and ground from the alternator.

If anyone has a better thought, please share.

paxcam

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@paxcam If the other gauges function correctly then you know it's not a power or grounding issue - the gauge is just bad. These gauges fail after a while. I had to replace my volt gauge due to the same issue. If it was a bad connection then you would see the symptoms appear in the other gauges as well and the volt gauge might read incorrectly but still work.

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11 hours ago, drh said:

@paxcam If the other gauges function correctly then you know it's not a power or grounding issue - the gauge is just bad. These gauges fail after a while. I had to replace my volt gauge due to the same issue. If it was a bad connection then you would see the symptoms appear in the other gauges as well and the volt gauge might read incorrectly but still work.

I thought the same thing-- can't be power or ground if voltmeter is the only one in the cluster acting up.  I just can't understand why it is so intermittent.  I replaced this gauge once before and hate to do it again just for the volt meter.  Thanks for your note.

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@paxcam That's odd that it's already been replaced and having problems again. You may want to try switching connectors with another known working gauge if you haven't done this already. If the volt gauge starts working then you know it was an issue with the connector. All the plugs running to the gauges are the same.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi people,

Thought I would post my problem on this thread and see if there is any advice I can gain

I have a 2006 wakesetter 247 lsv. The gauges have stopped working for some reason. Usually on start up I hear a whirr from the gauges as they power up. Not one of the gauges is working but the boat starts fine.

I have read this thread and I am unable to find the fuses that are suppose to feed the MMDC  model 7021-0001 unit under the dash. From what I can see the there is a loom going to a multi pin plug which then goes into the MMDC unit and from there the MMDC unit feeds each of the gauges. Perhaps my model doesn;t utilise the inline fuses.

I have checked the following.

Power is present at the MMDC through the wiring loom but there does not seem to be power coming FROM the MMDC. I pulled the MMDC apart and cleaned all the corrosion off the unit but still no luck.

Grounding seems fine, continuity through the MMDC to the ground bar.

Cleaned checked all wiring connectors sprayed with crc 226.

Does anyone know what each of the pins /cable cores coming from the MDC to each of the gauges represent. From what I can work out the blue wire is the illumination wire, red/white power, grey/black ground, yellow wire ground. I am unsure what voltages I should be getting at each of these points.

I applied 12vdc to the red/white wires as a test to see if there may be a blown circuit in the MDC. The gauges all fired up and I was leaning toward the MMDC unit have a blown component internally to output power. After a while my mate saw some smoke coming from the tacho gauge so I have probably blown it up.

Does anyone have any wiring diagrams/ circuit diagrams of the wiring from the MMDC to the gauges 

Does anyone know if there is a way to test/ verify the can bus system from the ECU to the MMDC and the workings of that system.

I am really struggling to find detailed information on the workings of these systems and have not spoke or met anyone with a detailed understanding of these systems.

 

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