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New sub box + WS420 + Heater pull out tube install - 2016 LSV


hethj7

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I've got some scattered threads around asking questions for probably the last 6 months, but I wanted to document it all for anyone interested.   The goal was to replace the stock sub box and wake up the factory system with a WS420 for zone control and some tuning.   I also converted the fixed heater vents to hot tubes while I was at it.   All this made a huge difference and even though I haven't fully tuned it, just doing some knob turning has made a big difference.   I do have slight whine in the tower speakers after the WS420 install with engine running.   Reading around, it seems somewhat common, but I'll try to minimize it by messing with the gains some.  

I'll post up the install backwards, so you see the final results first :)   I liked the way it turned out, but also have  new appreciation for shops that do all this properly.   My install is pretty clean, but certainly not pro-level.  

 

New kick panel with hot tubes and WS420 mounted.  I still need to figure out what to do with the mic, or whether to even keep it hooked up.  For the 420, I bit the bullet and paid up for the mount they sale.  It is pricey, but turned out nice.    My carpet color is "suede" and not stocked by any dealer I could find and minimum order through Malibu was going to run me close to $400.  I went to a local carpet shop and they matched it.  It still cost me $90 though with their minimum order requirements.  I then sprayed it with some waterproofer to help shed water.  Hopefully it holds up.  If you have the usual grey carpet, it seems much easier to get from dealers.  

 

1870A370-EFE2-495A-87CF-6F2C50AE5EA2_zps

 

I probably still need to firm up my WS420 mount.   I cut a piece of plastic that I planned to place on top of the underside dash cover and screw into.   I did screw into the plastic, but am only catching the very front dash panel.  The larger piece that covers things further back I couldn't figure out a clean way to get installed and still get wires routed, so it is now sitting in my garage.  Unless you are laying on my floor though, I doubt most people will notice it is missing.  

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For the kick panel, I ordered a plastic sheet off Amazon.  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ2C4CK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.   A local shop had some options, but they had cutting fees, I'd have to drive to pick it up, etc. and the price was about the same.  I'd like to support local, but didn't want to waste a lunch hour or longer getting to them.  

The kick panel was fabbed so that the sub grill fit over the top of it.  And you can kind of see it in the first photo in this thread, but the side trim panel that is carpeted I cut back about the same distance my kick panel was moved out towards the driver seat (that is the panel the fits on the side near the fuse panel).    

20DCEA06-B4CC-434D-B142-1384929D088D_zps

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Carpet was glued down using spray adhesive I picked up from Lowe's.   And for those with a really sharp eye, yes, I initially glued carpet to what would be the backside of the kick panel, so I had to redo that.  Doh!

 

0F3F8451-9A34-461F-B31F-5ED8F1861B60_zps

 

The sub box ended up being custom made.   No matter what I did, I just couldn't figure out how to fit the pre-built box that many others on here are using.   Call me a dunce I guess.   My dad has a nice wood shop and built the box very quickly.  He also put the dado in the bottom board, which now locks into the black plastic tabs that the factory kick panel was attached to.  This keeps the sub from moving front to back.  I then shot a screw down on one side into the floor that keeps it locked in place from side to side.  You can see where I pre-drilled for it in the board in the photo below.  And yes, we just used pressure treated lumber.  My dad had an abundance of it.  

 

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Test fitting the box prior to spraying bedliner on it.  Seams were glued (except for a few I missed not planning my assembly properly).   I also ran some caulk as you can see in the photo.  

 

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Factory amp rack looks factory after getting RCA's and power to WS420 installed (although I don't think it was yet re-attached in this photo). RCA's were run across the front of my front bow tank.  I used cables from Monoprice.   I'll repeat it here for reference, but you need 4 sets of RCAs (1 input to the 420, and then runs back to the sub, tower, and cabin amps).  

 

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Power and ground to the WS420 is run directly to the blocks the amps are on.  

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Remote for the WS420 was connected behind the amp rack to the existing remote wires.  I used heat shrink, crimp style connectors.   

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The backside of the factory amp rack is a rat's nest.    I used RCA's from the "front" of the black box as the input to the WS420.  

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The pre-built box others have luck with but I failed at getting to fit properly.  

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A quick look behind the kick panel, for anyone interested.  

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Stock box wasn't as bad as some photos I've seen of others, but still shameful for what Malibu charges. 

 

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Factory RF sub

 

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Original stock setup:

 

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5 hours ago, NewMalibu said:

Looks really nice! Did you have to move the heater tube that outputs into the walkway? Do you mind sharing the depth of the box you installed?

thx

I removed the sleeve on the hot tube that goes into the walkway, so now the hose just lays loose behind the sub.  It feels a little different to pull in and out but should work fine.  

The new box is approximately 15.5" W x 12.75" D x 13.75" H.  These are outside dimensions.  

I got the tubes from my dealer, but you can get them from several different places.  

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Thanks! 

4 hours ago, hethj7 said:

I removed the sleeve on the hot tube that goes into the walkway, so now the hose just lays loose behind the sub.  It feels a little different to pull in and out but should work fine.  

The new box is approximately 15.5" W x 12.75" D x 13.75" H.  These are outside dimensions.  

I got the tubes from my dealer, but you can get them from several different places.  

 

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Here is another box option I am using with the stock Rockford sub.   Dry fit should allow me to keep the kick panel in the same location with a 3 port heater by elevating it about 3.5".  I do have to remove the walkway hot tube sleeve portion behind the sub as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE12CC-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B003E476B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493317967&sr=8-1&keywords=Scosche+12"+Subwoofer

Volume is listed as 1.25 but I measured actual inside as best as I could and came closer to 1.17.  The sides panels are setback a back a little in the box which I think makes up for the difference.   Rockford's numbers seem all over the board but if I recall I tracked down that the 12' sub has a displacement of 0.154.  That should put the final pretty close to the 1 cu ft spec.

Measurements are:

17.25" W

14.75" H

9.5" Top depth

14" Bottom depth

Carpet comes of really easy and clean.  I removed the fill and I had mine sprayed with LineX bed liner for 25 bucks for added protection.

 

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10 minutes ago, store934 said:

Here is another box option I am using with the stock Rockford sub.   Dry fit should allow me to keep the kick panel in the same location with a 3 port heater by elevating it about 3.5".  I do have to remove the walkway hot tube sleeve portion behind the sub as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE12CC-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B003E476B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493317967&sr=8-1&keywords=Scosche+12"+Subwoofer

Volume is listed as 1.25 but I measured actual inside as best as I could and came closer to 1.17.  The sides panels are setback a back a little in the box which I think makes up for the difference.   Rockford's numbers seem all over the board but if I recall I tracked down that the 12' sub has a displacement of 0.154.  That should put the final pretty close to the 1 cu ft spec.

Measurements are:

17.25" W

14.75" H

9.5" Top depth

14" Bottom depth

Carpet comes of really easy and clean.  I removed the fill and I had mine sprayed with LineX bed liner for 25 bucks for added protection.

 

My box is almost exactly this same size.  With the heater, I found that if you invert the box (small side down), then I will not have to remove the heater tube and I get within an inch of the original panel location.  YMMV

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