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Help! 2006 23LSV rear tank line access


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Hey all, this may be dumb but I am a new boat owner and I bought the piggyback system from wakemakers. Every video I accessed and the instructions state that I can access the rear hard tank lines through the access panel and there are two screws to remove the panel. I am driving myself nuts trying to figure this out! Just ripped the carpet off and no screws? Was everyone wrong? Do I have to take off floor boards??? Hope not, help!!!

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I thought my friends VLX was an '06 and it had the above floor ballast tanks in the rear lockers, but I am not sure it was an '06 it's been years since I was in that thing. If the carpet is glued to the floor that might indicate that it once had the above floor ballast and they were pulled in support of putting in bigger bags. A quick way to check is to flip on the rear ballast drain pumps and listen for the sound of a pump running to locate the pump. If they are under there then the floor panel will have to come up. I am sure an '06 LSV owner will chime in to steer you straight. Good luck and welcome to the crew.

Edited by wdr
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12 hours ago, Blixer said:

Hey all, this may be dumb but I am a new boat owner and I bought the piggyback system from wakemakers. Every video I accessed and the instructions state that I can access the rear hard tank lines through the access panel and there are two screws to remove the panel. I am driving myself nuts trying to figure this out! Just ripped the carpet off and no screws? Was everyone wrong? Do I have to take off floor boards??? Hope not, help!!!

Oh boy, you might have a mess if you ripped alot of that carpet off, the screws are accessible through the carpet.  I just helped @jcon44install a piggyback system last summer, we had to lift and move the floor panel in order to access the vent and fill lines but I don't recall having to access the drain lines under the floor.  But to find those screws just run a putty knife along the top of the stringer under the panel to find their general location, then start poking around with a screw driver, a flashlight might help as well to catch a reflection while picking around in the carpet.

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Not sure about the 06 but on my 07 the hard tank lines were visible from the engine compartment but we could not get the hoses off without pulling up the floor a bit. like Ndawg12 mentioned the screws on mine were very close to where the divider panel channel is on the floor, took a bit to find them. It was more work that I thought it was going to be, removed most of the seat supports too just to get room to pull up the floor panels. Its basically one large panel on each side that runs up under the cabin seats. Hope this helps, good luck!

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I have an 06 vlx that I just removed the hard tanks in and will be installing sacs in. I  was able to get to the fill line and vent without removing the floor but not the drain line. Had to remove a number of screws but only took an hour to pull apart.

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Thanks for the comments. I found out the hard way what I had to do, but it was the easiest way I and i think the best way. I am not a paying member of this forum, though I should be (and will be) so i just found out I cannot (yet) share attachments. The answer is...there IS NO hidden screws. I tore off the carpet on the hose/tank covers and it is part of the floor, however there is a glued and stapled seam for a "top" of the cover, after some putty knife prying, then some screw driver prying, i was able to pry off the top of the cover, about 25 staples came with it, now pulled out! This top was definately not intended to be taken off. Strange. So then what i did was (of course first completing my ballast update :clap:) I took a sawzall and cut off all of the staples now sticking through the top plate (you could not pull them back out, there was no observable top of the staple) then restapled the carpet on. I knocked out the side of the cover so that i could run the hoses the opposite direction into the locker instead of into the engine compartment side. Overall i spent about 4 hours working, cursing, and cutting my hands up getting the top off of the first cover (after i knew the trick the second was about 30 min), and then about 1.5 hours for the whole piggyback system install.

What a mess, but it feels good to figure it out and be done! Note to Wakemakers - UPDATE YOUR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS! 

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OK just paid for this membership. Totally worth the membership fee! Here is a piture of what I had to do. After taking prying off this top lid, i then pryed off the side of the lid to get one hose to come out the other side, then it was just a flat top at that point. I put the carpet back on nicely and stapled it. Plan on screwing it in place eventually but the side panels actually hold the lid on top well. But NO SCREWS.20170403_202547_New.jpg  

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  • 4 years later...

You do not have to tear it apart to get to it. You can take the floor that it is attached too and take it out and flip it over. You will find 4 screws and you can just unscrew them from underneath and it will come off. Just remember to keep the screws and housing just in case you want to reinstall it

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