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2015 AXIS A22 Won't Start, Monsoon 350 Injectors?


muddyriverwater

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 Wish I could be of more help but you have already tested the high probability items. Assuming that you have done all the tests correctly, you have compression, fuel and spark. With those three items the engine would fire unless it is badly out of time, wires are crossed, bad connection, broken wire or a failing sensor or control module. The list is long and without actually being there, anything that I recommended from this point forward would be total speculation. 

To answer your question, yes it can be a failing coil or loose/corroded connection. In my opinion, the coil is a low probability option and the corroded or loose connection is a much higher probability. 

If it were me I would do the following in this order:

1. Undo any thing that was done since last year. Which now includes  checking the firing order of the plug wires, confirming that the distributor cap and rotor are placed back on in the right orientation.

2. Remove and wire brush the ground on the engine block and the battery and re tighten the ground at both locations. 

3.  After trying to start, Pull out one spark plug and check to make sure that it is getting fuel (it should be damp on the tip) but make sure that it isn't fouled. If you changed the plugs, make sure the spark plug gap is correct. 

4. Check for loose and corroded terminals and melted it broke wires.

5. I would get a spay can of starting fluid (not gas) and spay a small amount into the air intake while the engine is cranking.  I do not recommend that any body do this because it can backfire and cause engine damage and catch you on fire. But, being the hillbilly that I am, it is something that I still do. If I could get it to fire off but it dies, I would know that the engine wasn't getting gas or had a weak spark. If it it doesn't fire at all then I focus on the ignition and timing. 

6. Assuming a no fire situation,  check for spark by removing a plug again and use a spark checker.  This should also tell you the general strength of your spark as well to be able to rule out a very week spark .

7. After confirming spark, check the timing with a timing light. I want it to remain consistent and on time. If it is inconsistent or out of time then I am looking at a bad or loose ignition / crankshaft position sensor. If it is consistent and on time and I confirmed that I have fuel, then some how the rotor is put on backwards or your distributor cap is installed incorrectly. 

8. If I ended up with your situation where I had compression, fuel and spark but still no fire at all, then I would take it to a GM mechanic who has the appropriate diagnostic software.

I am sorry that you're having such a problem. I hope you get back on the water soon!

 

 

Edited by BLSousa
Grammar
  • Like 1
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Ok, another one we have seen. Is the Ignition Coil/Module assembly Challenger part # RA117011 . Between the cap/rotor, CPS and the Coil. One of those 3 should be able to get you back on the water. Give us an update!

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It's a 2015 so it should be under warranty. Why not take it to the dealer? You could also call the motor manufacturer and ask them. Or just change the CPS and see what happens. 

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Just now, malibu2004 said:

It's a 2015 so it should be under warranty. Why not take it to the dealer? You could also call the motor manufacturer and ask them. Or just change the CPS and see what happens. 

Location: Hong Kong ;)

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2 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Location: Hong Kong ;)

I would assume they have dealers in Hong Kong. I guess he could of had it shipped over. 

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Edited by malibu2004
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On 5/15/2017 at 8:52 PM, skurfer said:

IIRC, PCM told me the caps are notorious for cracking and breaking internally, so you still can get spark but it's a weak spark and not enough to fire... That's why I hope the OP gets back on the symptoms because the boat really wants to start and it will sputter, but no luck...And it will come from out of nowhere...

Not trying to hijack, just curious. With the Monsoon engine I am getting turn over and dying really quick. Came out of nowhere. One weekend it was struggling to run in the driveway. the next it was doing great on the lake for a hour. the next its struggling to stay alive in idle. Recently had the cap replaced. Sounds like after reading your comment I need to inspect the cap and make sure I didnt get a lemon. Good news the dealer that did the maint. is taking the boat back in today to try to diagnose the problems. Bad news hes backed up through the weekend.

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13 hours ago, AJwakedevil said:

Not trying to hijack, just curious. With the Monsoon engine I am getting turn over and dying really quick. Came out of nowhere. One weekend it was struggling to run in the driveway. the next it was doing great on the lake for a hour. the next its struggling to stay alive in idle. Recently had the cap replaced. Sounds like after reading your comment I need to inspect the cap and make sure I didnt get a lemon. Good news the dealer that did the maint. is taking the boat back in today to try to diagnose the problems. Bad news hes backed up through the weekend.

 

If yours is a 2004, you have a different distributor and cap. Very well could be the problem. What else did they do. They should throw another new cap and rotor on for good measure. Also, I've seen recently a plugged flame arrestor with the same symptoms. Good luck. We always clean them for our customers out of courtesy..

Edited by skurfer
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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, 

Sorry i haven't kept up with this tread, i haven't checked it for many months so i missed some good points that were made which probable could have helped me fix this sooner. For that i guess i'm an idiot.

Anyway i'll let you know what i did, then what the problem was (it was simple), hopefully it helps someone out there and it can save them a lot of the wasted time i spent. 

I was told early on fuel pressure was out of limits, so started there.. Replaced the in tank fuel pumps, both regulators, pulled the injectors out and witnessed they were firing. Spark plugs were getting wet with fuel after cranking, set up a different fuel tank to check for fuel contaminated fuel etc. Then i was told by the guys at crusader that 55 is fine for starting so moved on to spark.

Compression check was normal.

From the start when ever i pulled the spark plug out i had a beautiful blue spark jumping across the point. Anyway this had me beat, so i replaced the Coil, distributor and rotor, spark plugs, and ordered new leads but when they turned up they were the wrong ones. Indmar instead of Crusader so the Coil Lead was too short, put them in the box to return to the states for the correct ones. Note getting any of these parts shipped to me generally takes too weeks. I'm envious of you guys in the states being able to parts quickly. Occasionally the engine would cough but generally it was the same, turning over with nothing. 

I tried "Start ya bastard" An Australian flammable gas down the intake no change, so thought maybe timing somehow? Guess i was grasping at straws. Re-did the timing twice no change.

Id looked at the crank position sensor early on, i had RPM on the gauge (measured by CPS) and when every i pulled the cable off i immediately got a fault code. Looked fine but replaced it anyway. no change.

So then i just started pulling off and checking all the other sensors. I was lying by the engine while it was being cracked when i noticed for the first time a small spark above the lead. On closer inspection the spark was jumping from inside the lead plugs, down the plug, then over the entire length of the ceramic of the spark plug and earthing on the engine block, directly above where the spark plug goes into the engine. So even though the spark plug would work normally when i pulled it out (1 atmosphere) under compression this was the easiest route for the spark to earth, and hence i never had spark in the cylinders. As soon as i found this i went home got the indmar leads they had slightly longer boots, so put them on (apart from the coil lead) and she started up. After doing some research i found on a hotrod site that this can happen when the engine has a degraded or bad earth connection. (As blsoula mentioned on an earlier post) Ive cleaned them up and haven't had an issue since.

So there it is, i seriously hope one day this helps someone out there.

Cheers Dave.

 

Edited by muddyriverwater
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On 5/15/2017 at 7:13 AM, skurfer said:

He should have received a code before the crank no start if it's the crank position sensor. It still very well could be the culprit. I've seen a 2016 Crusader that was painted over from he factory. My $$ is on the cap and rotor. More specifically the cap. Change it and I bet it fires right up! We have seen this twice! Does it crank and want to fire but just won't? Maybe you get a sputter here and there? If yes, it's the cap... You should also be not the phone/e-mail with PCM/Crusador but I bet the new cap for the win!!

A friend of mine has a 2015 Axis and his crank sensor went bad without throwing a code.  Replaced sensor and it fired right up.  I'm betting on the crank sensor. Good luck OP! 

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