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wbama387

2017 23 LSV Audio Upgrade

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wbama387

So I ordered the base audio with my boat and going to install a set of Rev 10's on the tower and a xs-12 sub powered by an SD6 amp. Also plan to add an bunch of RGB LED's. So far I have mounted the amp and removed the top of the G4. 

32887594714_543253de52_b.jpg33689495906_e3b85fd281_b.jpg

 

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Ronnie

Following...

 

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wbama387

So I need your help. I want to make my system plug and play into the factory harnesses. I know the Tower connector coming from the Viper400M is an AMP and the tower speaker wires are a Packard connector, but I do not know what type of connector is on the sub power wires. Can anyone help me with this?

33607902741_9e3ec7c6d1_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

33696344246_e081b28f65_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

33607902151_60759a3ca0_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

33607902421_3a4d15a173_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

33580474552_8ccddcc561_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

32923790983_eea2932d57_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

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wbama387

So I found all the connectors required to create a harness to plug into the factory harness. Here are the links to the connectors for anyone else that would like to try making their own harness.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/38043/Weather-Pack-Female-Tower/?gclid=CNKT1PCNgtMCFYUfhgodvbcJdA

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0194190004/WM17420-ND/614736

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-776276-1/A106572-ND/1893362

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2THEL8K
13 hours ago, wbama387 said:

I was able to get the RGB controller installed today.

33764824055_ffd28cf007_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

33635580031_4773c4666d_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

33635580141_3b3884225a_k.jpgUntitled by William Bru, on Flickr

What is your plan for the LEDs (speakers, cupholders, etc)?  Perfect location and clean install for the controller...

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wbama387
9 hours ago, 2THEL8K said:

What is your plan for the LEDs (speakers, cupholders, etc)?  Perfect location and clean install for the controller...

I am going to do zone 1 for the tower speakers, zone 2 for the interior speakers, zone 3 for interior lights, and zone 4 for inside of the blower covers on the outside of the boat. 

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wbama387

So for those that order the base stereo, one of the challenges I faced was finding the sub connection. There are only two connectors, one labeled "tower" and the other labeled "interior." The sub connection is actually located in the interior harness. I have included a picture of which wire set is the sub connection. I hope this helps everyone.

33815683762_43dfa28cec_b.jpgBoat Black Box by William Bru, on Flickr

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wbama387

I completed making my harness to plug into the factory harness. Tower speakers and sub are installed and functioning. 

33874497231_c4a5cc4750_b.jpg33874455121_0b5a2c6bbf_b.jpg33618428590_f3151b0049_b.jpg34004112005_48fa3839f7_b.jpg

 

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Double UP 1080
1 hour ago, wbama387 said:

I completed making my harness to plug into the factory harness. Tower speakers and sub are installed and functioning. 

33874497231_c4a5cc4750_b.jpg33874455121_0b5a2c6bbf_b.jpg33618428590_f3151b0049_b.jpg34004112005_48fa3839f7_b.jpg

 

The picture with the rca cables spliced into a harness...is that for your sub and tower speakers?  Or just for tower speakers?  Also, the schematic is great, where did you find that?  Lastly, the schematic image has the one harness which is labeled interior and you have the sub labeled..did you cut the sub wire to get it separate?  I just don't get it because that harness goes into the factory amp for interior speakers, I would think you would need to remove the sub wire and convert it to RCA...let me know if I'm close, very helpful images though!

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Ottomatic

Can you post a pic of your sub?? Did you do sealed or ported?? I am thinking of doing the same set up??

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wbama387
9 hours ago, Double UP 1080 said:

The picture with the rca cables spliced into a harness...is that for your sub and tower speakers?  Or just for tower speakers?  Also, the schematic is great, where did you find that?  Lastly, the schematic image has the one harness which is labeled interior and you have the sub labeled..did you cut the sub wire to get it separate?  I just don't get it because that harness goes into the factory amp for interior speakers, I would think you would need to remove the sub wire and convert it to RCA...let me know if I'm close, very helpful images though!

The harness with RCA cables is for my sub and tower speakers. That schematic is from the manual you receive with the boat, it just does not have the redline markings which was a challenge trying to figure those out. I did not cut the sub wires out. I actually depined those 4 sub wires from the harness and repined them into the "Tower" harness. I did have to remove the blue remote wire from the "Tower" harness and wire it directly to the amp, to allow for enough room for the 4 sub wires. The reason for four wires is because you will have your red and white channel wires and then two black wires used as the shield wires for the red and white channels. There is two ways to remove the sub wires from the "Interior" harness. The first is to unclip the red part of the connector, should stay on the connector but just move up one click, then insert a depining tool in the back of the harness and pull the wire out. If you do not have a depining tool, the other way to remove the wires is to completely remove the red end of the connector so that you can get to the pins and use a small flat head to move the wire clips out of the way. When you move the clips out of the way, the wire can be pulled out the back of the connector. To get the red end off of the connector, there is two black clips that you can see at the end of the connector that you have to push out of the way. I used some hot glue as strain relief on the connector I bought, since really it is suppose to be used for mounting on boards. I hope that makes sense and helps you out.

Edited by wbama387

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wbama387
9 hours ago, Ottomatic said:

Can you post a pic of your sub?? Did you do sealed or ported?? I am thinking of doing the same set up??

I did a sealed box. I will grab some pictures this weekend. I always get so into projects and forget about taking pictures. I wish had taken a few more for this project.

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Double UP 1080

So wbama387 was exactly correct on how to do this sound system!  My buddy and I did it slightly different.  We removed the tower speaker harness and stripped each wire and connected them to RCA cables.  Rockford makes RCA male connection already connected to the 4 wires which you connect right to the wires from the harness.  The remote is then free from the harness and goes to the amp.  The sub amp we did the same thing, except the sub wires have to be removed from the interior boat harness which the above posts show in the diagram.  Connected those to the same Rockford RCA to wire set and the remote wire we just jumped from the tower amp.  Worked perfect first try, including all of the controls on the screens for tower and sub volume.  So the end result is the boat has built in extended RCA cables from the factory box for the tower speaker amp and sub amp.  Thanks so much for the info!

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COOP

I went a slightly different route.

2ez6vx0.jpg

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wbama387

Does anyone know how to get this moved to "Stero Info & How To"?

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Slurpee

@COOP I love seeing a DSP!  I looked at that one and the TWK88 and was torn.  I went JL just because the GUI was more intuitive to me.  Hows the Audio Controls one work for you?

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COOP
On 9/11/2017 at 10:43 AM, Slurpee said:

@COOP I love seeing a DSP!  I looked at that one and the TWK88 and was torn.  I went JL just because the GUI was more intuitive to me.  Hows the Audio Controls one work for you?

I Love Audio control stuff! Been using it since the old car audio days. This piece is a set it and forget it. Not anything you want customers playing with. WAY to many settings that could really screw up the sound. Multi zones with 30 bands per zone, input and output gain control, signal time-alignment, input delay and phase correction, plus integrated input and output RTA’s. 

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