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2008 VLX Stereo Build


Twitch02x

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I didn't read this thread and I'm not going to. I just glanced at the wiring schematic. That Perko wiring scheme must go bye bye. There is only one way to wire a dual battery Perko switch. Do it the correct way so that it serves the purpose that it was designed for.  

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Just now, David said:

I didn't read this thread and I'm not going to. I just glanced at the wiring schematic. That Perko wiring scheme must go bye bye. There is only one way to wire a dual battery Perko switch. Do it the correct way so that it serves the purpose that it was designed for.  

Well hell lol

was able to return all 4 batteries and pick up 2 new ones, will get the other 2 tmrw at diff store that has in stock.

 

headed home to change up the wiring on perko and try this again

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1 hour ago, Twitch02x said:

Just had them checked at o Reilly 

2 test bad!!!

2 test inconclusive!!!!

 

that close enough for whoever offered me their boat?

Right on, you're gonna be situated in no time.

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Ok looks like I got it whooped

 

have 2 batt as a stereo bank at the moment wired like before with all grounds tied into common ground and changed up the perko like we discussed and everything works in all switch positions....

There really is a baby Jesus.

 

i seriously think taking a sawzall to the extra terminals on original set of batteries was a huge mistake, it had to have screwed up something inside because during the test we had to hold the cables to my sawed off terminals because the threaded terminals would finish the test!

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That could be.  The direct vibration on the terminals might have done something.  I've never heard of anyone taking a saw to a battery before.

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33 minutes ago, Twitch02x said:

Now the question that will save me $100

can I run 2 gauge from common post to starter or does it "have to be" 0 gauge??

Mine is 2ga from the factory. 

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32 minutes ago, Twitch02x said:

i seriously think taking a sawzall to the extra terminals on original set of batteries was a huge mistake, it had to have screwed up something inside because during the test we had to hold the cables to my sawed off terminals because the threaded terminals would finish the test!

Oh man... just wow.  You're pulling our leg right.  Kiss your kids.  Hug your wife.  And next time your insurance enrollment is open be sure to check the box for disability insurance.  THAT is how you loose your eyes, melt skin, and a bunch of other horrible things.  Batteries are reservoirs for massive amounts of energy.  And even these cells can go bad if you do something like that to them.

 

You Chose Poorly.jpg

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Just now, Slurpee said:

Oh man... just wow.  You're pulling our leg right.  Kiss your kids.  Hug your wife.  And next time your insurance enrollment is open be sure to check the box for disability insurance.  THAT is how you loose your eyes, melt skin, and a bunch of other horrible things.  Batteries are reservoirs for massive amounts of energy.  And even these cells can go bad if you do something like that to them.

 

You Chose Poorly.jpg

Yea like I said mistake

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4 hours ago, Twitch02x said:

Now the question that will save me $100

can I run 2 gauge from common post to starter or does it "have to be" 0 gauge??

How did you choose the cable size for everything else in the system so far? Us those same formulas, except use the current draw of a starter and not an amplifier. 

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21 hours ago, Twitch02x said:

Then what explains why I can take a single battery from the stereo bank and wire it straight to an amp bypassing all other grounds, perko, extra wiring, etc and it starts arcing and stinking.

Then i can do the exact same with a house battery and everything works fine???

 

That is what I dont understand???

I am no expert but what if you shorted the batteries somehow at some point and damaged all 4 of them that way? They could just be cooked from miswiring right? Or maybe not...

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1 hour ago, 95echelon said:

I am no expert but what if you shorted the batteries somehow at some point and damaged all 4 of them that way? They could just be cooked from miswiring right? Or maybe not...

I know for sure I never let any positive touch any negatives 

 

I'm going with the combination of having the perko not wired the proper way(lesson learned) and using sawzall to cut off battery terminals(another lesson learned)

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Ok 

Now that we've all had a breather and tensions have settled lol!!!!

 

I 100% appreciate everyones help on the battery situation and also appreciate the insight on getting the perko switch wired correctly!!! Everything seems to be working flawlessly as far as the Inboat speakers/Amp & Tower speakers/Amp goes. (<<<-------- STUPID LOUD) Im currently in the process of using cardboard to mock up my SUB enclosure under the drivers helm. Will get the latest pics up ASAP.

 

I did run into a new problem,,,    The boat came with a RGB LED controller w/remote and has runs of LED's from front to back along both sides of the boat, all was good before but now that i have added the LED's on every Inboat & Tower speaker i get a serious buzzing/hissing sound when i turn on the LED's...  Bummer........      I tried wiring the +/- for the controller directly to the batteries and directly to the +/- DIST BLOCKS for amps w/no luck, also tried getting the + from the remote wire relay but still has the sound. Its weird because certain colors increase/decrease how loud the noise is, White obviously is the loudest.. I order the PAC CSS12 Passive Noise Filter so i will give that a shot. Any other suggestions??

 

Question??????     Do we clean up the last couple pages of all the bickering or leave it as there is something to be learned from it??

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1 hour ago, Twitch02x said:

Its weird because certain colors increase/decrease how loud the noise is,

Its caused by the pulse width frequency necessary to create some of the non-primary colors. This hz leaks into the speaker circuit giving off the buzz. 

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1 hour ago, boardjnky4 said:

Get the LEDs off of your stereo circuit. Wire it to your "house" circuit.

Thats how it originally was wired, they had it going directly to the +/- bus bars inside the black medallion box.

Well the + is inside the black box, but I wanna say the - is off to the side but anyhow same diff.

 

Beings that i have the Amps B+ on the common post of switch along with all the house B+ & Grounds from both battery banks wired together wouldnt that never allow me to completely separate the LEDS from Stereo???

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Here are some more pics of the build

Im finally coming to an end with it and yes there were a few bumps along the way but nothing to big to overcome with some help from the crew.

 

Making the holes for the 2 extra Inboat 6.5s

FA195487-8F68-48FC-BEB6-ADEF753FA849.jpg

 

6.5s Installed

9C89C1BE-C853-4ABF-9053-57878C685774.jpg

 

Doing a quick cleanup job on the Tower speaker cans

9F44237B-0D0F-4C3E-B5D9-745108ECA2E1.jpg

 

 

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Got the Sub Enclosure built yesterday, def took longer than i wanted but overall came out good, still need to pull it back out and bedliner it and add some bracing. Built out of 3/4 Birch from Lowes. Preglued all pieces and siliconed all inside corners and double baffled front along with a supporting brace under magnet to help support the wieght of the sub.

Came out around 4.9-5.0cf before sub or port, at the moment its tuned around 33-35hz.    I originally got my port dimensions with an 18" tall enclosure but once i started building it i was able to make it 18 3/4 tall, once i get solid measurements including the notch i will get new port dimensions and trim the port to a forsure 35hz and go from there to 40hz a little at a time to see what sounds the best. I will probably hold off on the bedliner until i have this part done incase i need redo the port wall from going to short and not liking the sound.

 

85F391C4-6E08-4014-ADD8-1413E8E54E4C.jpg

 

87B3BC19-20ED-48EF-A742-7B775BA06B49.jpg

 

Haha disregard the walker, my girls were playing with it outside

3ACD714F-8B36-4296-BA6A-B34CA32F1322.jpg

 

6B7C9A1F-52CD-4E58-B282-DEBCE005235C.png

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