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Water pump leak.


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I replaced my belt today and all went fine, but now I have this leak from the raw water pump. How bad is this? Could I have knocked a seal loose when replacing the belt? Is there a seal or do I need to replace the entire pump? 

 

 

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Is it safe to run it like that until I get it fixed? Other than the extra water in the bilge it seems to run fine. Ran it up to temp in the driveway and it didn't overheat. 

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It looks like the leak is coming out of the bearing at the shaft end of the raw water pump.  Assuming the impeller is fine, and the gasket is fine at the other end, you could safely run the water pump with a leaking bearing/bushing temporarily but the raw water pump is definitely a mission critical part of your boating experience.   Some people around here are resourceful enough to be able to replace the bearing and the bearing seal in the raw water pump housing.  I replaced my whole pump.  

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1 hour ago, atolman said:

Is it safe to run it like that until I get it fixed? Other than the extra water in the bilge it seems to run fine. Ran it up to temp in the driveway and it didn't overheat. 

Yes, leak is not a problem but you should at least inspect the impeller - but as long as you're in there replace it.

1. Take the cover off - 4 bolts.  Don't drop them.  Maybe order a couple spares when you order the impeller.

2. Squirt lots of WD-40 in there.

3. Remove the dead man switch lanyard and crank the engine for about 2 seconds.

4. Note direction of vanes and remove old impeller with needle nose or similar by pulling and twisting.

5. Coat new impeller with goo they give you and push it on with vanes angled the same way as the old one.  Make sure its in far enough so the cover will go on without hitting the impeller.  If that's difficult use a hose clamp to pre compress the impeller to get it started.

6. Put new gasket and cover back on and do not over tighten the bolts.  They're brass and strip easily.

7. Put up with water leaking out the shaft until you get tired of it.

8. If you decide to replace the pump be aware hat it might be very hard to remove from the pulley - without damaging it and/or the pulley.  I would leave the shaft in place and replace the seal.

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And when you break one of, if not all of the heads off of brass screws trying to get them out, go buy stainless ones to replace them. :) The easiest way to get the headless studs out is to keep screwing them all of the way into and through the pump housing from the back side of the pump housing with needle nose pliers. 

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Kind of a thread jack... kind of not... Did you have to remove the pump to get the belt off? I went to do my belt the other day and said screw it for now because I just did my pump past summer. 

The pump is not too hard to replace.  It is just in an awkward place and reconnecting everything can be a real pain.  The hose on the port side of the boat that comes out of the pump is zip tied closer to the engine.  Cut that zip tie and it will make your life a lot easier upon reinstallation.

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Getting the old pump out is a real bear but doable...but a real bear so saddle up!!

The vanes will right themselves on the first start up, no need to worry about orientation, it's hard enough getting that bastard squeezed in there any which way it will fit.

I don't change my impeller every year like some do but a cool mod I've always wanted to do is put studs on the pump housing and nuts on the cover.    

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14 hours ago, Roush611 said:

Kind of a thread jack... kind of not... Did you have to remove the pump to get the belt off? I went to do my belt the other day and said screw it for now because I just did my pump past summer. 

The pump is not too hard to replace.  It is just in an awkward place and reconnecting everything can be a real pain.  The hose on the port side of the boat that comes out of the pump is zip tied closer to the engine.  Cut that zip tie and it will make your life a lot easier upon reinstallation.

You don't have to remove the pump, just the bracket that attaches to the engine block.  It keeps the pump from spinning.

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8 minutes ago, Ndawg12 said:

Getting the old pump out is a real bear but doable...but a real bear so saddle up!!

The vanes will right themselves on the first start up, no need to worry about orientation, it's hard enough getting that bastard squeezed in there any which way it will fit.

I don't change my impeller every year like some do but a cool mod I've always wanted to do is put studs on the pump housing and nuts on the cover.    

This is true.  Ballast pumps have similar impellers, they swap direction every time you drain/fill.

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4 hours ago, MadMan said:

You don't have to remove the pump, just the bracket that attaches to the engine block.  It keeps the pump from spinning.

Correct. Just undo the bracket and 2 hoses from the pump and you can slip the belt through. That part was pretty easy. 

I'm waiting for the new pump to get shipped to my house before I tackle this job but I'm scared it won't come off too easy since this boat is a 99. Hopefully it's not totally seized on there. PB blaster and dead blow hammer are on deck though! 

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21 minutes ago, atolman said:

I'm waiting for the new pump to get shipped to my house before I tackle this job but I'm scared it won't come off too easy since this boat is a 99. Hopefully it's not totally seized on there. PB blaster and dead blow hammer are on deck though! 

I hope you don't regret trying to take the shaft off the pulley.  Bending the pump shaft and not getting it off - or wrecking the pulley/crank bearing/crank  - would be a drag.  Take pictures and post up your results.  Inquiring minds want to know.

If that drip is really bothering you, suggest you just replace the seal if the shaft does not come off easy.

If I were to TRY to remove the pump (again...) I would try to use a threaded insert to drive the pump shaft plate out of its nest in the crank pulley - much like you use a bolt to get a brake disc off an axle.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/fasteners/thread-repair/threaded-inserts?r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600186 Thread Repair"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600189 Threaded Inserts"|~

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11 hours ago, atolman said:

Correct. Just undo the bracket and 2 hoses from the pump and you can slip the belt through. That part was pretty easy. 

I'm waiting for the new pump to get shipped to my house before I tackle this job but I'm scared it won't come off too easy since this boat is a 99. Hopefully it's not totally seized on there. PB blaster and dead blow hammer are on deck though! 

Mine is an 01 and had 850 hours when I did mine and my pump came off with not much of a fight at all. 

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New pump came from Skidim yesterday so I tackled the job this morning. All went smooth! Removed the 3 bolts that attach it to the pulley as well as the couple allen bolts attached to the arm. Popped it off with ease! Took me about an hour to do the whole removal and install of the new pump. The only hard part is getting down in there since there's so little space to work in. I removed the engine cover and swim platform so I could stand over the transom and go down in that way. 

 

 

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