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Mid Bass thoughts


Steve B.

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Just thought I'd throw this out there. I have a Rockford Fosgate system. Really happy with it overall. The only thing I'd like to improve is mid-bass. Maybe 125'ish hz to 500 ish. I have a free amp channel, wonder if there's a driver designed for this kind of "assistance"?

Thanks in advance,

Steve B.

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8 hours ago, Steve B. said:

Maybe 125'ish hz to 500 ish.

DO you not have any fill range coaxials? Thats right in their wheelhouse. This could be subwoofer issue too.

8 hours ago, Steve B. said:

I have a free amp channel

Just one? Is it a woofer chnl or a full range? 

There are 6.5" and 8" woofers

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9 hours ago, Steve B. said:

Just thought I'd throw this out there. I have a Rockford Fosgate system. Really happy with it overall. The only thing I'd like to improve is mid-bass. Maybe 125'ish hz to 500 ish. I have a free amp channel, wonder if there's a driver designed for this kind of "assistance"?

Thanks in advance,

Steve B.

I wouldn't recommend a separate & dedicated midbass fill driver. Too many crossover points. Too complicated. If you add another pair of speakers (because added surface area is the easiest way to get more midbass) I would stay within the coaxial speakers you have now. And I would try to find improvements within your existing system. An EQ can't effectively overcome all problems, but once you have eliminated or overcome any core installation or tuning problems, a hideaway EQ could be a more productive addition. 

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I will investigate 8's in the place of the 6.5"s in the cabin. I have 8's on the tower and RF sub which works very well. There just seems to be a slight hole above where I want the sub to roll off. The thought crossed my mind of using a smaller additional sub EQ'd higher.

Thanks !

Steve B.

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What, exactly, from the bass (60hz to 250 hz) or low mid range (250 hz to 500 hz) are you missing?  Impact in the kick drum? No emotion in the bass licks? Just seems to be limp compared to your other rides?

What's the current location on the drivers?  If you have the drivers in the dash on the left and the far left, certainly the staging is F****d up.

Are they mounted IB or in boxes?  If IB, make sure front wave and back wave are well separated.  If boxed, too small?

Which RF drivers do you have installed?  Can they cover the frequency range you're after effectively?  i.e. Do they have a fairly low Fs? Are they voiced in a way that tickles the emotions on your favorite sing-along-song track?

Is the amp providing enough dynamic range or is it mearly adequate?

My best solution, so far, to the mid bass Holy Grail, has been to buy the very best drivers I could almost afford, that are voiced in a way that gives me shivers on a couple favorite tracks, make an abundance of clean power available, time align the system and cut the mid range.  Like miss Birdie says, "Cut cut cut"

 

References:

http://www.teachmeaudio.com/mixing/techniques/audio-spectrum

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100789

http://www.reelclassics.com/Actresses/Teresa/teresa8.htm

 

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20 minutes ago, robtr8 said:

 Are they mounted IB or in boxes?  If IB, make sure front wave and back wave are well separated.  

I'd start right here. Make sure you can't 'see' the front and back of the drivers at the same time. Very common issue in the boat world.

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Two real problems with a subwoofer that isn't in a tightly sealed enclosure. One, the front and rear excursions are opposite and when allowed to meet they cancel low bass production, and Two, when the enclosure isn't tightly sealed there is no back pressure to damp/restore cone movement, no transients, and no midbass.  

Low bass, as can be produced in an open boat, is 50 to 80 Hz. Bass begins to become directional, as we perceive it, just around 120 Hz., and not much above that the lowest of vocal fundamentals come into play. So any active crossover point between 80 to 120 Hz. (midbass region) could work.

Good 6.5" coaxials shouldn't have trouble reaching down to meet the top end of the subwoofer range. However, the best coaxial speaker can't overcome a compliant mounting baffle. More cockpit coaxial surface area, by means of an additional pair or larger speakers, does a lot for midbass.

If you want a seemless and coherent transition between subbass and midbass, you need to have a symmetrical hi & low crossover point and equal hi & low amplitude through the crossover transition.

So you have to begin somewhere to isolate what most needs improvement. Start with the integrity of the subwoofer enclosure. Then temporarily eliminate the subwoofer and run the coaxials fullrange to see if alone they can capture the full midbass range.         

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