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DIY: Oil (and fuel) Filter Relocation Installation


formulaben

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The oil filter location on my 2002 Wakesetter leaves something to be desired, especially since it only accommodates a smaller oil filter.  After a "never again" moment while winterizing my boat, I decided to install a remote oil filter.  Since the "double" was only a few bucks more, I went with it.  Additionally, my fuel filter/water separator canister was also installed in an area that while it didn't intrude on engine bay or v-drive space, it was nearly impossible to remove the filter where it was installed. 

First picture is my mounting location.  It is the forward part of the engine bay frame (for lack of a better term.)  I bought 2 feet of 2x3" aluminum angle and cut it in half.  If I were to do it again, I would have used the distance from the pylon all the way to the divider (around 15" IIRC) so that I'd have a bit more room to work with.  I used self-tapping screws to go into the aluminum frame.  I pushed them as far back as possible, but just far enough back that I could get mounting bolts and a wrench behind the aluminum.  The port side is for the oil filters, starboard for fuel.  I went with this oil filter relocation kit and purchased an additional 5 feet of hose.  I'm sure there are many other solutions out there...do your homework.  This one uses an adapter, supplied hose (only 6 feet), and a mount that was easy to install.  Only caveat: your new oil filter is Ford style (different seal location on filter), so be sure to note the new oil filter model(s) for future maintenance. 

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Here is the adapter that came off of the engine, and below that is the adapter that replaces it.  On the bottom side there are 2 threaded openings where barbed hose connections are installed.  There is a center gasket and an outer square ring gasket.  That one was tricky, I used gasket sealer to get it to stay on during the install.  Be certain you note the "IN" and "OUT" hoses during installation.

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And here is the almost-finished product.  I have to finish electrical on the pump and tidy up with some zip ties, some anti-chafing poly sleeve hose wrap, and other finishing touches.  From the previous installation of the aux fuel pump, I just tied into the wiring going to the main fuel pump.  I didn't take a ton of pictures, but just know that your hose routing is important.  Don't be too eager to cut the hose or tighten down the clamps until you are sure you're happy with what you see, and of course follow the directions on the kit.  The directions included numerous warning about mixing up the hoses and failure to conduct a proper leak check after installation; the consequences should be obvious. 

On the fuel side, I'm using the Yamaha MAR-FUELF-IL-TR cartridge filter.  Also note that 1/2" fuel hose is not that common...you'll either have to use adapters (I did) or change the hose to 3/8".  If you're able to find a fuel pump or filter kit that utilizes a 3/8" male fitting with 1/2" barbed hose connectors then you'll be fine with the factory hose.  Side note: the 1/2" hose I bought had a thinner diameter than the factory hose, so your hose clamps may not fit.  I went with Breeze liner hose clamps, since they don't pinch the hose as much as standard hose clamps; I found a set of 10 on eBay cheap.  You'll note the secondary fuel pump kit.  For those that are asking, it is the Carter P4594.  Again, you'll need different barbs or barb adapters due to it being 1/4" NPT fittings and hose is 1/2" size.  If you decide to go with a similar setup, be sure to install the secondary fuel pump downstream of the fuel filter.  I simply tapped into the electrical plug of the primary fuel pump to power the secondary pump.  No issues with it at all.

Please note that I'm only using the supplied hose and hose clamps as a mock up and will later replace them with proper crimped hoses using these as templates.

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Edited by formulaben
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Looks good.  I'm going to change oil in mine soon and it's going to be messy.

I believe the reason these kits use the Ford/Chrysler filter is because they have the filter bypass valve built in the filter itself.  The original filter bypass is part of the adapter removed during installation. 

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  • 3 years later...

Air filter is 4" tall, IIRC.  Second fuel pump prevents vapor lock.  As far as I can tell it's the only permanent solution for fuel pumps mounted to the engine block.

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16 hours ago, formulaben said:

Air filter is 4" tall, IIRC.  Second fuel pump prevents vapor lock.  As far as I can tell it's the only permanent solution for fuel pumps mounted to the engine block.

interesting.  I've literally never experienced vapor lock on any of the '01s I've spent hundreds of hours on but I know it's an issue.  Maybe I've just been insanely lucky.

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If I restarted the engine within 10-15 minutes I was safe, but between 15 minutes and around 60-90 minutes after shutdown it was always an issue (unless I opened the engine hatch or ran the blower.)  I know it's warm where you are so I can't figure it out either, but I am at almost 3000' and the worst was when I was at a lake that was over 5000'.  I was told to put lake water or even better some ice on the pump for a few minutes and then start it, and if it works then you had confirmed that vapor lock was the issue.  Ever since I installed that pump it has never reappeared.  If I had know then I would have installed it immediately...the engine dying got me into a couple embarrassing situations at the dock.

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Well I've only been in AZ for a bit over 2 years, and the condition you describe never happens.  I'm always restarting within a few mins of shutting down, and I'm almost always off the lake before ambient temp reaches the mid 80s.  But I've done what you mentioned with temps in the high 80s-90s back in WI with my dad's '01 SSVLX dozens of times and never had an issue.

I'm planning on replacing my fuel lines this upcoming winter.  Maybe I'll add a second pump for good measure.

Edited by UWSkier
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1 hour ago, UWSkier said:

I'm always restarting within a few mins of shutting down, and I'm almost always off the lake before ambient temp reaches the mid 80s. 

Even when it is in the 100s here, as long as I restarted shortly after running I was fine, but it was the time delay after shutdown that got me in trouble.  I'm sure it's a combination of altitude, temperature, heat soak (time), and lack of blower usage that all contributes to it.

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You did a great job on this.  You you post a picture of your air filter...for some reason it won’t load.  You replaced the factory flame arrestor with it? 

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I wonder if that filter would fit under the doghouse on my boat.  Presumably it has little impact on intake noise vs the contraption that's on there from the factory.  What'd you do with the fake PCV hose?

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12 hours ago, RedWakesetterVLX said:

You did a great job on this.  You you post a picture of your air filter...for some reason it won’t load.  You replaced the factory flame arrestor with it? 

Yes, it replaced the flame arrestor, as it's not necessary with fuel injection.

8 hours ago, UWSkier said:

I wonder if that filter would fit under the doghouse on my boat.  Presumably it has little impact on intake noise vs the contraption that's on there from the factory.  What'd you do with the fake PCV hose?

I think there were even shorter ones available.  I took the PCV hose and poked a hole in it and pushed it onto the long bolt that held the old flame arrestor.  I placed the hole in the hose so that it is pressed against the filter somewhat firmly.

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@formulaben does that engine frame not heat up from the oil?  I mounted mine on the starboard side engine frame towards the rear (roughly right above my Alternator) and it was heating up the metal enough to make me get rid of my remote oil filter.  I did a post of my remote oil filter install but have since reverted back to the original location due to heating up.  Now i'm back to angry oil changes. 

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I'll check it next time out but fairly certain it doesn't heat up the frame a whole lot because it is mounted to angle aluminum and has a lot of surface area to dissipate the heat from there to the bottom of the frame and then upwards.

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