2016 LSV - stock stereo >>> upgrade

[FlyBoyCoy]

I assume the amps are powered by the remote off the black box as well. In typing this it would make sense 

[MLA]

57 minutes ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

Think the optimas would help?

Low voltage is low voltage anyway you slice it. In reality, the largest blue top has the Ah of atypical group-24 wet cell. No advantage there IMO. For the money, a large group-29 wet cell or other brand AGM has more Ah. Again, sounds like just low voltage, not a battery issue. Not uncommon for a new boat to have weak batteries or batteries that are actually a year or better, old. 

I think the BT will power up, but with an EQ like the 420, you dont need the sport knob. 

[FlyBoyCoy]

Good feedback.

This is a new 16 left from last year so not certain health of the batts. Are you suggesting the batts don't have the oomph they may have had? This boat had no batts when it was under its cover so I can only assume they put a couple new batts in...?

I don't need the sport knob if I don't want the full integration with the various inputs, xm radio, speed adjusted volume, track fwd/rvrs... 

I suppose that's another option - I typically will run the Bluetooth and could simply bypass the whole gamut of systems if either ran a bluetooth in to the 420 or exchanged the 420 for the 420BT. 

Oh the decisions. 

[FlyBoyCoy]

anyone have any feedback for my question above?   Work around from running the full mailbu gauge suite when the boat is off?  Seems silly to have that running down the batts as well as the amps massive pull.  Also, yesterday I discovered a neat little doohicky with the 3-2-1 countdown beeper from the tower speakers when switching sides on SurfGate. Because of this integration (among other things) I would like to continue to use the head unit - but even with the engine on I am getting a noticeable dimming in the two screens when I have it turned up to around 60% with all amps pushing.

possible solutions:  3rd battery and have two in parallel on one of the perko selections??? Go Optimas?  XS?  Kinetic? Capacitors before the amps pulling the most juice?  

Audio-nuts - help please?

[hethj7]

The surfgate 3-2-1 transfer countdown is a horn on the back of the boat, and not from the tower speakers, just FYI. 

I just installed a WS420 and wanted to maintain master volume control through the sport knob and command wheel.   This happens when you feed the WS-420 from the outputs on the blackbox (I used just the front outputs), and then you return RCA's from the WS420 back to the amps.    Power, ground, and remote wire for the WS420 is all tied it at the factory amp rack.  Granted, my whole dash still powers up, but I maintain the factory Bluetooth and so far all functionality of the sport knob.  

I think on the power question if you don't care about any factory integration, you would just go WS-420 Bluetooth version directly to your amps.    You wouldn't even need the black box at that point, but all stereo control would be strictly from your Bluetooth connected device and the WS-420. 

 

@shawndoggy pointed out the following info in another thread for a power switch (granted, it was going in an install that had factory stereo delete).

here's a switch with a wiring harness too: https://www.amazon.com/SupportTM-Symbol-Button-Toggle-Switch/dp/B00ZR7MMXO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490143844&sr=8-2&keywords=push+button+led+power+switch

They say it's rated for 5A, which is plenty for the amps' remote turn on leads, but if you are double extra paranoid, wire it to a relay, where the switch is just providing enough current to trigger the relay and then the relay turns your accessories on and off.

[FlyBoyCoy]

@hethj7 thanks for clarifying where the little beep comes from. 

The way you rigged I did the same exact set up.

[FlyBoyCoy]

Audio peeps - two questions:

 

1) thoughts on running a couple of these XS Batteries on one selector of the perko (parallel) and leave one of the stock interstate batts for starting if we run these down on the other selection of the perko? Then a dual or triple bank smart charger hard wired for maintenance and charging when parked? 

2) would the amps be happier running with these XS batteries over the interstates or thoughts on a 2 farad capacitor before all amps or at least the sub amp? Or batts and cap?

goal here is to keep the head unit from shutting down from the load needed to run 2600 watts between the 5 amps 

 

[MLA]

Just now, FlyBoyCoy said:

would the amps be happier running with these XS batteries over the interstates

They will never know the difference. Amps just know voltage and amperage. Regardless of brand or type, the system will perform the same until their low voltage threshold is reached. 

[FlyBoyCoy]

ok - maybe I should ask the question a different way - would a better battery set up and/or capacitor or two help the issue I'm having with the amps robbing power, so much so, that the head unit shuts off when the amps are under load?

[MLA]

1 hour ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

would a better battery set up and/or capacitor or two help the issue I'm having with the amps robbing power,

More Ah, whether its from wet cell lead acid or AGM batteries, if FAR better than a CAP or two, for a voltage sag. Just note, im not saying this is the fix to your issue. 

 

[jeffcg]

This was really helpful, thanks.  I was hoping to see a pic of the amp board with your 5 amps.  Do they fit?  Mine with the stock 3 amps seems shaky already.  Also, what size is your box for your sub, and do you have a heater?  I'd like to replace the stock sub enclosure on my '16 23LSV but the space seems tight.