Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Sign in to follow this  
FlyBoyCoy

2016 LSV - stock stereo >>> upgrade

Recommended Posts

FlyBoyCoy

Hope I'm posting this in the right area (if not please shift to stereos).

ok so I'm well versed in the subject but want some other audio nuts to chime in. I value you're couple cents. Additionally sometimes it just helps me write it all out for the plan of action to form in my head. 

I'm getting a new 16' from stock at my local dealer for a great deal I simply can't  pass on. The bu is being delivered with the standard 4-6.5"RFs in the bow, 4-8"RFs in the cabin and 4-WS icon8"s on the tower. Currently it appears the 8 RFs are all being powered by a single RF PM400-4!??? I've seen the other threads on this subject and I'm not surprised. Anyhow, talk about zero head room... more like the 7th and 1/2 floor head room in Being John Malkovich. On with the trend is a RF PM300-2 on the sub. Uh... no.

Tower:

Then a RF500-2 powering the icons - this seems it may be almost adequate albeit I think a PM600-4 dialed way down at 4 ohms would provide much better sound than bridging the 500-2 running at 2 ohms. I know the rev8s have the tougher cone and the horn but I have gotten massive sound (previous bu) out of 4 Polk 6.5s crossed over, over powered but dialed down, and tuned properly - in fact when set up this way they are keeping up with the $10k+ systems IN CLARITY (not drive) which is what I aim for. I should state that again - I'm a clarity freak over having concert projection - loud improperly tuned systems, well they are like watching a driver having a bad day and cutting people off in traffic repetitively only to get a car length ahead or be first to the red light... it's annoying but in a way comical. Ok so back to this... the icon8s I think will be just fine when I tweak them in, although I think they would love a cooler amp at 4 ohms. QUESTION (I don't have the boat in my possession yet so help me out here) are the tower speaker paralleled at the amp with a separate wire set to each speaker starting at the amp or are they run single wire up the tower and then paralleled closer to the cans? You know why I'm asking. The 4 ohm thing would require the lines all the way to the amp. (Crossing fingers this is the case). 

Cabin + bow:

First idea is to go with another pm600-4 and run these 2 ohms. I'm more comfy running these at 2 ohms cause they won't need to project as far like the towers (yes I want a little drive for the surfers). Run the 8s with one gain setting and the 6.5s w another gain setting. I've done this same setup on the 07 bu at 2 ohms and got great results (although my whole system was kicker - the towers were 4 Polk 6.5s running 4 ohms off a zx750.4 - the 8 Polk 6.5s in the cabin and nose were run parallel off another zx750.4 at 2 ohms). Mucho headroom. I'd welcome feedback here too. I really don't want to add a 4th amp to this set up (if I wasn't trying to stay away from adding a 4th amp to the solution then getting a pm400-4 for the bow and another for the cabin would be nice all at 4 ohms). Juuuust reaaally don't wanna add a 4th amp!

Sub

This one is a no brainer. A 300-2 for the sub in a plastic unsealed box is kinda silly. For me anyway. It may be adequate for some but I just want a clear system with some muscle behind it. I will mimic my '01, '05, and '07 Bu's sub solution here. Those systems were all powered by a kicker 1000.1 to a single kicker 4 ohm L7 12" dvc sub wired in parallel at 2 ohms in a sealed tight box built exactly per the specs in the manual (I forget but I think it's something like 1 cubic foot remaining volume after the sub takes its volume - it's been a while since I read it and not feeling like looking it up... yet). Back to this build - to keep in the RF family I'll get the pm1000-1 and running the kicker 12" L7 the same as above. I know I know Rockford to kicker??? That's like putting a ford engine where a chevy 350 used to go! Oh wait... So the 4 ohm L7 12" in a sealed enclosure powered by a 1000 watts at 2 ohms is thunderous (for anyone out there looking for a sub solution). 

I should also mention I will have some pre amp whether the WS420 or something simpler, cheaper, with more bands to tweak like I've had on previous two boats. They had the Precision Power E.7. Although I like the idea of separate tower and cabin eq capability of the 420, the more bands the better the clarity, and I can limit the freqs at the amps crossovers for the towers and cabins independently. Not quite sure what I'll do here yet. Wish there were a 420 with 6-7 bands but then id be in a wish in one hand scenario...

Ok so there's my rant. I just typed all this from my iPhone so please disregard any typos. And let me know your feedback on the questions above. 

As always - thanks in advance.

- Coy

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

So I visited the boat still in the factory wrap/cover..

These towers have the horn - turns out they are rev8s! 4 total

I found out the answer to the question on where the towers are paralleled. Only a single line running to the two speaker!  Does anyone know if that line is all the way up the tower near the cans before it parallels?

I spoke with wet sounds to confirm the rev8s really like 200+ watts rms. The term he used was "they need around 200 watts to really wake up". 

Speaking with Rockford I learned my idea of running 600-4s for the cabin and bow and another on the 4 towers wasn't adequate. I also learned something I missed... the the pm1000-1 doesn't make 1000 @ 2 ohms! 

So here's the new plan:

Stock System 
Pm300-2 sub [email protected]
Pm400-4 cabin 8s and bow 6.5s [email protected]
Pm500-2 towers [email protected] 

Final Solution 
Pm300-2 bow 4x6.5s [email protected] (comes w boat)
Pm500-2 cabin 4x8s [email protected] (comes w boat)
Pm400-4 single pair tower rev8s [email protected] (comes w boat)
Pm400-4 single pair tower rev8s  [email protected] ($269 eBay)
T1000-1bdCP sub [email protected] ($379 tristate sound (refurbished))
Kicker L7 12" 4ohm dvc parallel @2ohms ($239.95 amazon)
Kicker L7 12" cover ($24.95)

Share this post


Link to post
wheelman

The pm 400-4 will only give you 200w x2 not 250. Your cabin set up will sound great, I did the same thing on my 2015. 

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Dang it! That's right. The other option was to go with a 1000-4 that would have gotten me the [email protected] on the towers. I opted out of that option since it was $1k price tag. The 200w should be good to go. Thanks for the reassurance.

Did you do this yourself or an installer? A few questions linger which would save me some time. 

Share this post


Link to post
MLA
9 hours ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

Kicker L7 12" 4ohm dvc parallel @2ohms ($239.95 amazon)

Why not go with the 2 ohm DVC and get that 1000W rms from that amp? With the 4 ohm DVC, you are only netting 500W.

 

And that 200W from the 400.4 is with the amp "pegged" so to speak. All 4 chnls running at 2 ohm just to hit 200W. A single Syn-DX2 will give you equal performance or a single R/F P1000x2 gets you 250W to each if you want to stay in the rockford family. 

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Am I not doing my math right? Dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel are 2 ohm at the amp?

Yea I don't need concert loud.  The more I thought of it I really want 4 ohms to the tower cans for clear sound from a cool amp running efficiently. It won't be often I am trying to blast the tops. And I liked the idea of using all the stock amps...BUT that's a great suggestion. Let me chew on it. 

This would educate me...

For clarity, for a speaker that likes 200w RMS, would 200w @ 4oms or 250w @ 2oms be more clear when running at a marginally high level and rarely maxed out?

 

 

Edited by FlyBoyCoy

Share this post


Link to post
MLA
1 hour ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

Am I not doing my math right? Dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel are 2 ohm at the amp?

This ^^^^^^ is correct. However, the 1000.1 you posted, is only 500W @ 2 ohm. You need a 1 ohm woofer to get its 1000W rms. 

 

1 hour ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

For clarity, would a speaker that likes 200w RMS, would 200w @ 4oms or 250w @ 2 oms

in your proposed dual amp/4 pod scenario, even though each pod is 4 ohm, when bridged, each chnl "sees" a 2 ohm load. Nothing really wrong with what you are planning, just wanted to point out that you just hit the RMS, but it took all the amp has to offer, to do it. No head room.  So the difference between dual 4 chnls and a single 2 chnl is a little extra wattage, or head room. Either way, both amps would be running at 2 ohm across all chnls. 

the single 2 chnl reduces the number of amps, amount of cabling, RCAs and no splitters. 

Now, there could be some debate between the clarity and efficiency between an amp running at 4 ohm compared to 2 ohm.  

Share this post


Link to post
wheelman
5 hours ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

Dang it! That's right. The other option was to go with a 1000-4 that would have gotten me the [email protected] on the towers. I opted out of that option since it was $1k price tag. The 200w should be good to go. Thanks for the reassurance.

Did you do this yourself or an installer? A few questions linger which would save me some time. 

I did mine myself, very easy swap and was able to fit 5 amps on the stock amp rack. 

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Ah ok - on the sub - on a more recent post in this thread I noted using the T1000-1bdCP rather than the pm1000-1 to get the 1000w @ 2ohm. I'm shying away from the 1ohm hot amp. 

On the towers - the specs on the RF pm400x4 note "200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged" - this will educate me too - @MLAyou're saying the amp, when bridged, would act as though it was running 4 channels at 2ohms? So hotter and less efficient? Uh oh if that's the case. When I hear 4ohms I think cool and happy as long as not clipping and tuned right. 

Thanks guys

 

 

Edited by FlyBoyCoy

Share this post


Link to post
MLA

I got you now, I looked the pm1000.1

The amp is 100 x 4 @ 2 ohm, bridge it and you there's your 200W x 2. 

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Ok phew! I pick it up on Thursday! Stooooked!

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Ok so the build sheet says icon8s but when I checked the boat they have a horn tweeter. The service manager said they must be rev8s if they have the horn then. Tho when I look at rev8s they have a different look with a sort of Maltese cross. I've googled 8" tower speaker to see if I could come up w anything but nada. Anyone want to help me with what these are??? Hoping an older version of the rev8s since I've strategized amps for that. Lol 

IMG_9611_zpskkvu0hgd.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
tjklein

These are 100% Malibu's version of the WS Rev 8.  (just cosmetically different from the standard Rev8)

Share this post


Link to post
MLA

Those are WET SOUNDS Rev-8, just in Malibu pods. The OEM Icon-8 is also in that same pod, but still A Wet Sounds Icon-8.  

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Fantastic! Thanks again! 

Share this post


Link to post
MLA
51 minutes ago, LS1boarder said:

Wait, my build sheet has Icon 8's, but these are the speakers... 

 

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2016-malibu-boats-llc-23-lsv-102799723

 

Are those the better Rev-8's as well?

Not sure I understand your question, but the boat in that sales add has two pair of the Rev-8/malibu pods. There is the Wet Sounds Rev-8 and then there is the Rev-8 offered by Malibu that comes in Malibu's own pod. Nothing else is different, just a Malibu pod. 

Share this post


Link to post
LS1boarder

Nice! You answered the question. I was saying that when the dealer sent me the spec sheet, it lists Icon-8 speakers which disappointed me. But finding out that these are Rev-8's is awesome news!!

 

 

I finally figured out how to upload a pic, and it covered my whole post above. Oops!! Lol

 

Edited by LS1boarder

Share this post


Link to post
ConnollyCrew

Inboats will sound great at 100 rms. Those rev 8's are good at 200, great at 300 rms. WS makes several amps that would do the job for you and you would never think of having to upgrade again. 

I would look at an SD 6 and SD2 for the towers. My guess is you could pick these up around 1500. Well worth the Investment.

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Partial install and very pleased!!!! Got the two new amps installed, ran rcas between black box RF module, amps, and cockpit, ran another two lines to the tower speakers  (nightmare! Because they give you a 5/8 hole to fit thru the hole at the bottom of the tower - only enough room for 2-3 lines - not 4 - I tried), and the power and remote lines to the preamp. I got a precision audio w 7 band eq and dual zones and the WS420 to determine which I like better. The 7 bands vs 4 is appealing to me and I had the precision on the last boat and I was able to get super fine tuning and crisp highs. I've hooked up both now and luckily no police visit yet. Pleased with both really but will lake test both when I get the sub in. I have the sub pulled right now - building box, fiberglass, and installing sub today and tomorrow. 

Anyhow, I wanted to report that the set up in the above post works like a champ! Louder than I need it and zero amp clips - very clear and every speaker sounds happy. Surprisingly even the 6.5s can handle some lower end. I have them at HP and crossed over at around 60hz and they are fine. Same with the 8s in cabin and the rev8s on the tower. 

 

Stooooked!

Edited by FlyBoyCoy

Share this post


Link to post
MLA
7 hours ago, FlyBoyCoy said:

The 7 bands vs 4 is appealing to me

You are aware that the WS-420 is a dual EQ in one, like not other. It allows for independent tuning between the in-boat zone and tower zone. 7 bands may be better when you are tuning the front and rear stage of like speakers. But in a tower/in-boat setup with coax and HLCD, the dual EQ, even though its only 4 band, may prove to be the better. 

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Yes sir - Quite aware. I'm considering all things.  

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

Ok y'all so I got the sub in and it sounds tasty - still tweaking to do but here is the question of the day:

Anyone running heavy amp load and the Malibu screen flickers and eventually the head unit clips out? This renders all this power useless. My previous boat I ran two blue tops and the acted as a sort of capacitor. Should I just snag a cap for the sub? Seems happy without the sub draw. 

Also- seems silly to have the entire Malibu suite of electronic gauges up if I'm just playing music without the engine running. Anyone done a work around?

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
MLA

Just say no to CAPs. Sounds like a low battery. Ive seen a couple setups where the source unit's (black box in this case) switch ignition was relocated to a rocker switch. 

Share this post


Link to post
FlyBoyCoy

I like where this is heading - so rocker the black box wakes it up - would the Bluetooth and jog wheel wake up too? 

Yall chime in here - I was setting up the RF head unit at 30 and tuning the wet sounds 420 at around 80%ish before can start to hear strain (light distortion)

So if the black box wakes up with a master switch and the jog and bluetooth do as well this would eliminate the additional pull on the bats by the multifunction display and control center? 

Think the optimas would help? Seems the optimas on the 07 bu never had an issue... but all I ran a dedicated rocker to an rca Bluetooth as the sole input to a preamp/eq - never a shut off due to load on the optima bats 

Edited by FlyBoyCoy

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...