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Roush611

Stupid oil filter removal question...

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Roush611

The boat is a 2001 Wakesetter... which way do you twist to get it off? If I'm facing the bacK of the boat am I twisting towards the fornt or rotation towards the back? 

I just don't want to risk over tightening. As I'm twisting to the front of the boat it's moving but not breaking loose. If I twist towards the back of the boat I'm getting very little movement

Edited by Roush611

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electricjohn

Use the right hand rule.  Point your thumb in the direction you want the filter to go and turn it in the direction your finger will bend.

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minnmarker

The upside down letters on the filter should move from right to left to take the filter off. Put an abdorbent pad or a bunch of paper towels under it and try to keep it from tipping when it comes off the threads so you minimize spilled oil.

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hethj7

I used to cut the bottom of a milk jug off and out unde mine to help catch the drops as well.  Or, once the filter is loose, wrap it in a ziplock bag and finish unscrewing it off with the bag around it.  Let it fall into the bag as it comes off to minimize the mess.  

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Roush611
16 minutes ago, wheelman said:

Sorry but if you have to ask this question maybe you are better off having someone else change your oil or at least have someone who knows more walk you through the first time. 

Ha ha ha I knew that was coming. I changed it last year, but it's the upside down crap that always confuses me. 

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wheelman
7 minutes ago, Roush611 said:

Ha ha ha I knew that was coming. I changed it last year, but it's the upside down crap that always confuses me. 

Lol! Still lefty loosey righty tighty 

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formulaben
1 hour ago, wheelman said:

Lol! Still lefty loosey righty tighty 

Not really, if you're upsidedown.  But whatevs...

Anyway, I'm in the process of installing one of these (I'm actually doing the double, for only an extra $14 BTW) and I am absolutely positive it will pay off bigtime during future oil changes.  Just a thought.

 

 

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Roush611
1 hour ago, formulaben said:

Not really, if you're upsidedown.  But whatevs...

Anyway, I'm in the process of installing one of these (I'm actually doing the double, for only an extra $14 BTW) and I am absolutely positive it will pay off bigtime during future oil changes.  Just a thought.

 

 

Where does it relocate to? I'd be interested in this. Are there any write ups on here?

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formulaben
11 hours ago, Roush611 said:

Where does it relocate to? I'd be interested in this. Are there any write ups on here?

There's probably a dozen places you could do it, but in my case I'm placing it just under the aluminum frame cross member that makes a quasi-bulkhead at the forward part of the engine bay.  The frame is where the ski pylon is installed and the hatches rest on.  I could mount directly to the frame but found that below the frame there is plenty of space and it keeps all the equipment out of the way.  I'm attaching some angle aluminum to the underside of the frame so as to attach the double oil filter base, the fuel filter/water separator, and the aux fuel pump.  Should clean up the mess I have right now and make filter swaps and any leak troubleshooting a breeze.  I'll try to remember to take pictures and see if I can get a decent write up going...

6 hours ago, MadMan said:

If I were to install a remote filter kit, it would be one without hose clamps, don't like using them for anything over 10psi.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1122/overview/

Yes, the plan is to use the included basic hose for use first as mock up and then use temporarily to make sure the routing is good (pressure, chafing, hose radius, etc.) and then if all looks good replace with custom crimped hoses.

Edited by formulaben

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MadMan

Another thing I might consider if I was installing a remote filter would be an oil cooler.  They are frequently installed with marine big blocks.

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TallRedRider

Sometimes a gorilla puts them on and they are very tight.  In these threads, I always remind people that hand tight is plenty, don't put a wrench to it.  And put a layer of oil on the filter gasket, you will be much happier next time you remove the oil filter.  

 

I once had to put a screwdriver through it, that was the only way I could get enough torque.  Oil was everywhere, what a mess!  

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formulaben
17 hours ago, MadMan said:

Another thing I might consider if I was installing a remote filter would be an oil cooler.  They are frequently installed with marine big blocks.

With engine water temps right at 160 degrees I don't know why you'd need one...also, where would the cooling air come from, unless you use a water as the cooling medium?

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MadMan
26 minutes ago, formulaben said:

With engine water temps right at 160 degrees I don't know why you'd need one...also, where would the cooling air come from, unless you use a water as the cooling medium?

Mercruiser installs them on their big blocks, not really to cool the engine, but to cool the oil.  They function similar to a Malibu trans cooler, using water.

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-22250-mercruiser-oil-cooler.aspx

 

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saxton15
19 hours ago, TallRedRider said:

 

 

I once had to put a screwdriver through it, that was the only way I could get enough torque.  Oil was everywhere, what a mess!  

I did this my first time changing the oil.  Pretty sure the filter was still from the factory.  

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Woodski

@MadMan:  The data I have gathered with my boat indicates an oil cooler is not needed, oil pan temp (which is pretty much oil temp) hovers at 180 degrees or even cooler after I park the boat within 15 minutes of a slalom (36 mph) or barefoot run, water is 160.  I keep a thermal laser gun in the glove box.  Since oil temp is more related to engine speed, if you are running slower speeds, oil temperature will be closer to water temp.

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MadMan
22 hours ago, Woodski said:

@MadMan:  The data I have gathered with my boat indicates an oil cooler is not needed, oil pan temp (which is pretty much oil temp) hovers at 180 degrees or even cooler after I park the boat within 15 minutes of a slalom (36 mph) or barefoot run, water is 160.  I keep a thermal laser gun in the glove box.  Since oil temp is more related to engine speed, if you are running slower speeds, oil temperature will be closer to water temp.

The oil cooler might be more appropriate on a surf boat where 30 minute uninterupted intervals, at significant throttle, are common. 

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Chatty21VLX

Like was stated above, use engine oil to lubricate the new gasket. Spin the filter on by hand just until the gasket touches the block, then tighten another 1/4 turn by hand. Never use tools to tighten a filter. 

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formulaben

Sorry for the lack of pictures, but you'll get the idea...

 

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robbennett

It helps me to think of it this way-- no matter which direction you are looking at it if you go clockwise it will go down (away from you), counterclockwise up (back towards you). So if i am looking at it from above it will be clockwise, If I am on the ground under the engine looking up counter clockwise. 

Righty tighty lefty loosie never worked for me. It changes depending on if you have the wrench on the top of the bolt at 12:00 or on the bottom at 6:00.  

Edited by robbennett

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Nitrousbird

Oil filter relocation kit is a must IMO.  Especially with my motor, accessing the oil filter was a nightmear.  I wanted to go to a bigger filter and save money, so I ordered Indmar stuff for the engine side and the filter side is a Jegs kit.  Works perfectly and cut the cost nearly in half over going Indmar for everything.  

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