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Axis Engine-Side fuses


boardjnky4

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Are there fuses that feed the engine side of the wiring harness on an Axis? I know the ECM and the 3 relays that accompany that. Are there fuses in front of those relays? Wiring diagram seems to indicate so but I'm not sure how to locate them. 2011 A22 with an Indmar. Thanks!

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The relays in my boat are exposed and clipped right next to the ECM, they are not in a box.

I know about the breaker too. It's also not in a box.

Yeah, what I have doesn't match that (see above). But there HAS to be a fuse that protects the fuel pump, starter and ECM somewhere in the boat.

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  • 4 years later...
On 2/16/2017 at 9:14 PM, boardjnky4 said:

FINALLY found them. They are not in a box. They are in a plug with a cap. dangling under the ECM. Looks almost like the diagnostics plug.

Hey I know this is an old post but I’m having similar issues and I cannot find the fuses on my 2012 axis a20. I don’t see a box or any type of Leed as you described any chance you could point me in the right direction? Any help would be appreciated 

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There are two ways I have seen the fuses placed on the Indmar GM engines depending on the year, ECM, and engine model used.  Either there is a fuse box with a large rectangular cover located next to the ECM with the engine fuses and relays in it, or there are three separate relay plugs and a single fuse holder (with three fuses) clipped to the ECM bracket near the red breaker button.

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Thank a lot that helped finally found the fuses but all the fuses check out o.k really hoped that would be the problem. Any idea if the red breaker should look popped out or in? I cannot push it in or pull it out 

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1 hour ago, csleaver said:

There are two ways I have seen the fuses placed on the Indmar GM engines depending on the year, ECM, and engine model used.  Either there is a fuse box with a large rectangular cover located next to the ECM with the engine fuses and relays in it, or there are three separate relay plugs and a single fuse holder (with three fuses) clipped to the ECM bracket near the red breaker button.

Also 2 time I was tapping on the dash with a screwdriver Handel gently and the gauges came on briefly any chance it could be the ignition key? Anybody seen them go?

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The red breaker button on the engine ECM bracket will click when you push to reset it, but it doesn't really pop out in a visible way when it is tripped or noticeably push in when it is reset.

I have often seen loose connections on the ignition switch terminals cause electrical problems.  Any loose electrical connection can cause operating issues.

I don't really follow what other problem the OP was having other than not finding the engine fuses.

What kind of issue are you having with your 2012 Axis?

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So I was driving the boat and I noticed my fuel gauge was empty not even empty just horizontal lines and the boat was full so I stoped to see if it cam back. Then I stupidly turned off the ignition boat turned off and now will not restart. I turn the key even just to on and the gauges don’t light up or boot up no read out. There is a relay in the engine bay just clicking rapidly. Changed relays and same issue, checked battery all my accessories work fine radio pumps, lights just seems not to boot up the ecu.

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I have seen low voltage due to battery issues or voltage drop caused by loose or corroded connections cause similar problems.  Check the battery condition first and check the charging system after you get the boat to start and run.

Check the battery cable connections at the battery, battery switch, starter, and the engine grounds on the bell housing first.  Then check the ignition switch connections and ground buss bar at the dash.  Also check the boat harness to engine harness rectangular 14 pin connector near the ECM.  Everything should be clean and tight.  You should get battery voltage of around 12.5 VDC at the "B" terminal on the key switch, at the main starter terminal, and on all 3 fuses with the key off.  Key-on should have battery voltage on the key switch "I" terminal with the purple wire.

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Ok thanks all really good info will be checking tomorrow. While having this issue I was in the driver seat with the ignition on and I was tapping the dash with the back of a screwdriver and the gauges came on briefly but went off again I did this twice but now cannot make happen again. I plan on removing the seat so I can investigate behind the dash for loose wires. I checked the ignition and all wires tight and good what r the chances the ignition switch could Ben bad and cause this? It’s like I switch the boat to accessories instead of on? Or anything else I should look for? Are the ecm good in these boats or could it possibly be bad? Asking so many questions as dealers can’t even look at it for 2 weeks minimum and me and my family are on vacation next week and really love the boat

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An ignition switch could fail.  Test it with a volt meter to see if the "B", "I", and "S" terminals are getting battery voltage when turning it to on or crank positions.

Which ECM do you have?  I have seen ECM failures occur, but it is rare compared to how often I find loose connections.

You will likely need the ECM service manual, Rinda Diacom, and a laptop to really diagnose an ECM failure or engine wiring harness issue.  Start with the easy stuff first.

Edited by csleaver
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Thanks again you are really being so helpful. I am not sure what ecm I have currently. I will be at the boat again in 9 hours, my dad and I are confident we are not getting proper power to the back of the boat, we did a load test at the starter motor connections and with the load it drops to 6volts I believe you are 100 percent correct bad connection somewhere. The center relay when out and key on we do not get the proper 12volts which is why the breaker clicks and doesn’t stay on. Just cannot find the issue will be looking under the dash tonight for the ground bar you mentioned. My dad wants to bypas the red breaker to make sure that isn’t the issue but I am not sure it could be that. We did short the starter motor to try and fire the motor but it didn’t start, should the starter motor run if it’s shorted? Or is there other circuits that won’t let it run? 

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3 hours ago, Peterhead said:

Thanks again you are really being so helpful. I am not sure what ecm I have currently. I will be at the boat again in 9 hours, my dad and I are confident we are not getting proper power to the back of the boat, we did a load test at the starter motor connections and with the load it drops to 6volts I believe you are 100 percent correct bad connection somewhere. The center relay when out and key on we do not get the proper 12volts which is why the breaker clicks and doesn’t stay on. Just cannot find the issue will be looking under the dash tonight for the ground bar you mentioned. My dad wants to bypas the red breaker to make sure that isn’t the issue but I am not sure it could be that. We did short the starter motor to try and fire the motor but it didn’t start, should the starter motor run if it’s shorted? Or is there other circuits that won’t let it run? 

Your starter motor didn't run when you shunted it because you have a bad connection.  Remember that 6V under load?  That needs to be over 11v or so under load.  The odds of having a bad part are much lower than the odds of having a bad connection somewhere.  Put a charger on the battery while you clean all of the connections.

You really need to get everything clean before you worry about what parts might be bad.  You said that you have a poor connection somewhere since you get 6V under load at the starter.  Clean the battery connections, clean the starter terminals, the grounds, and everything else that @csleaver mentioned (including the engine connector).  You should not need to remove a seat to lay on your back and clean the connections under the dash.  It isn't fun, but you have to do it.  Clean every connection you can find, and then spray them with a light coat of spray oil of your choice to keep oxygen and water away longer.  Looking at something and declaring it clean isn't the same as actually taking it apart and wiping the crud off then putting it back.

Diagnosing by guessing about a particular part is a frustrating waste of time and money as you start replacing things you think might be bad.  It doesn't make any sense to accuse any part when you know you don't have a clean electrical system.  Get *everything* clean before you continue to diagnose.

 

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Ok thank you I have been removing all connections and cleaning and putting back so far all have been tight and clean so I haven’t found the bad one yet. All connections and parts of the boat look brand new so far the boat has only 140hours on it and is kept inside I know there can still be corrosion and bad connection. I will be checking all the things under the dash tonight after work. 

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Thanks to all the ppl that helped me this is a great forum. In the end we started looking over all connections again, still all clean and tight but we have the wires a tug each time and the crimped on negative terminal came right off hardly crimped on mainly held on with the shrink tubing, I am surprised it lasted 140 hours actually. Put a new terminal on and boat started right up no issue

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